2003 Keller Estate Oro De Plata Sonoma Coast Chardonnay

This crisp, lean Chardonnay from Keller Estate on the Sonoma Coast is made more in the style of some Chablis than the oaky Burgundies many California winemakers have taken as their model. Keller Estate has its lush, vanilla-scented Chardonnay too, but this one, made with the same estate-grown grapes, but vinified entirely without oak, is a slam dunk with sushi, sashimi and other Asian food. Gold with reflections of palest green and light citrus notes, it’s entirely food friendly. Give it a pad Thai and it sings. Pour it with miso-marinated black cod and it cuts right through the richness.

Because this style of Chardonnay is something of an experiment, only 653 cases were made. Get it while you can still find it.

-- S. Irene Virbila

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Quick swirl

Region: Sonoma Coast

Price: About $19

Style: Crisp and lean

Food it goes with: Sushi, California-Asian cuisine, Thai and Chinese, spicy dishes

Where you find it: Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463; the Wine Club in Santa Ana, (714) 835-6485; the Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454 or (800) 76WINEX; the Wine Gallery in Corona del Mar, (949) 675-3410.