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Didactic tasting menus a new genre? (And will there be a pop quiz?)

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El Bizcocho at the Rancho Bernardo Inn in San Diego has installed former Saddle Peak Lodge chef Steven Rojas to helm the stoves, and the restaurant’s tasting-menu-only offerings go into full swing next month. (Ex-El Biz chef Gavin Kaysen left last fall for Cafe Boulud in New York.)

Rojas will prepare spontaneous menus of five, seven or as many courses as the guest wants. The restaurant also will debut its ‘Les Secrets de la Cuisine’ menu -- ‘educational tableside tastings’ -- including studies in mushrooms, Port, salts, dessert wines and butter. Two points off if you don’t know your Bordier butter from your Plugra.

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El Bizcocho, Rancho Bernardo Inn, 17550 Bernardo Oaks Drive, San Diego, (800) 675-8500.

-- Betty Hallock

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