The Varnish, at Cole’s French Dip, has opened
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Partners-in-cocktails Eric Alperin and Sasha Petraske have officially opened the Varnish bar (go all the way to the back of Cole’s French Dip and you’ll see a door marked with a framed drawing of a cocktail coupe).
The best ‘seat’ in the speakeasy might be right at the bar, perfect for leaning up against because it’s lined with leather-covered padding (there are no stools), and that’s where you can watch bartenders such as Alperin or Marcos Tello (of the Edison) mixing drinks (for example, the Business -- gin, lime and honey -- the kind of business I like). Last night, Petraske himself was in from New York ‘to critique the bartenders,’ he says, while also enjoying an Old-Fashioned or two. While you’re there, someone, likely in suspenders, might be playing the guitar next to the antique piano, on which rests a diminutive top hat (or maybe it was a bowler?).
Harbor pendant lamps hang above a couple of tiny cafe tables and the room is edged by small booths with wood tables, each decorated with daisies and crystal-edged sconces. Alperin tended to many of the details himself, such as tying each drink list with leather string to its wooden backing, branded with the cocktail coupe logo (‘My fingers are still raw,’ he says); procuring an antique doorknob or telephone; and hanging family photos. There are cues from Petraske’s New York semi-members-only bar, Milk & Honey, like the ridged paper napkins that the waitresses set down on the tables and the metal drinking straws (which are available for purchase).
Our waitress was also nice enough to let us order a French dip from Cole’s and bring it to a booth. Dessert was hot buttered rum.
You can see lots of photos at mattatouille.com.
The Varnish, 118 E. 6th St., Los Angeles, (213) 622-9999.
-- Betty Hallock
