It’s that time again . . . Easter weekend is near, which means that it’s time for you frustrated bakers to forget about your past failures, put on a happy face and turn out an Easter cake that will please your family and all of your guests. : EASTER CAKES

So you have decided to bake a cake. It’s that time again . . . a glorious Easter weekend coming . . . colorful flowers of spring in beautiful bloom. What better inspiration could one want, other than envisioning delighted faces and getting a pat on the back from satisfied cake devotees?

What else could stop you?

Afraid to take another chance after a chocolate mousse cake turned out to be disaster? Blame it on that temperamental mousse, genoise.

Worried you might have to dash out again to that French bakery (thank goodness, it’s just a block away) two minutes before your guests arrive?

Voices start echoing: “We want HOMEMADE, we want HOMEMADE. . . .” Surely they’ll forgive you for not having a cake with the perfectly symmetrical looks of a bakery creation. That ultimate homemade taste and freshness will definitely make up for the looks.

Challenged? Should you attempt to give that recipe another whirl? After all, the food writer emphatically told you on the phone that there was absolutely nothing wrong with the recipe and you were the only caller professing problems with it.

If you wish to pursue the project (Grandma’s efforts of love were often rewarded, you know) and risk the expense again--forget your pride and examine your conscience. No, evil thoughts do not make that cake crumble.

You claimed you “followed the recipe exactly.” Exactly? Are you willing to bet your brand new food processor on that? Remember when you had to reduce the amount of sugar by half because you couldn’t afford to add another inch to your waist? No wonder the cake was sand-dry, hard, low in volume and rather pale.

What about that time when you thought that honey was the healthful in-thing and it would be so “ au naturel “ to substitute it for sugar in your trusty chiffon cake? If waste disposals had a say, your honey-baked “leather” was most likely growled at or rejected.

Another case was when you doubled a birthday cake recipe because your son invited more guests to his party. Did you adjust the baking time? And remember how using a much larger pan produce a cake that didn’t seem to have the expected doubling of volume? The cake also became too salty, too spicy. That’s when you learned that some ingredients intensify in taste when simply multiplied directly.

Are you one of those who say, “I’ve been baking for years. . . “? You pride yourself on being an experienced baker, are conscientious about gathering all the ingredients, but will you admit that you sometimes don’t read instructions since you have all the experience backing you up? So you presume the cake will be baked at 350 degrees . . . or done in half an hour . . . and so on.

Are you also the one who threw away that rusting old triple sifter because somehow it just didn’t belong in your newly remodeled kitchen anymore? Or maybe you just decided to put your full trust in “pre-sifted” flour? The bad news is that that so-called product, after being packed, stacked and thrown around from manufacturer to store to your shelf might as well be labeled “unsifted.” Didn’t you ever think that sifting could have saved your spongecake from being dotted with those tiny pearls of flour?

Weren’t there times when you thought you had greased the pan to death, yet ended up prying loose a gooey-bottom crust? Sometimes improperly mixed batters or those with high-sugar or high-fat content can cause the unexpected dilemma. And leaving the cake in the pan too long can make it either sweat or stick. Also, think back to when you relied on those new non-stick pans to do the trick, not realizing that the rich cake batter contained a lot of sticky fruit so that the pans still needed to be greased and floured. Don’t forget to blame the weather, too, as humidity can play tricks on some cakes, particularly meringue tortes. Although you may still be able to eat your mistake in this case, it’s good to know that heaven-sent parchment paper does exist and next time you may welcome it as a good safeguard.

What type of grease should be used? In many cases, even with butter cakes, good old solid vegetable shortening works best in forming that barrier between the pan and the batter.

And regarding problems of substitution, you always say you want the best and thus use butter instead of the less expensive vegetable shortening called for in the recipe. It helps to know that the cheaper fat has some virtues, too. Its softer consistency helps in even distribution of the fat, producing a finer and softer cake texture. But, you argue, it’s butter cake or poundcake. If flavor is your priority, go for the butter.

When substituting butter, however, for the original shortening, it’s important to have it at room temperature and to cream it thoroughly. Does this explain why that poundcake was so heavy, dense and flat when you were in a hurry one time and didn’t get the butter well creamed? Don’t blame the recipe for not having baking powder since classic poundcakes don’t use this leavening.

And of course there’s no need to remind you of that day when you forgot to time the oven and it was imperative that you take a peek to find out what was going on inside that hot dark cell. The least you could have done was to carefully and gently open the oven door to prevent that sudden gush of air from hurting the trembling cake inside, much less avoid banging the door closed thus wracking the cake’s “nerves.”

Finally, how often have you been intimidated by recipes that make you almost wish you had a crystal ball? They never tell you how long to mix or beat the mixture, to what stage to whip the eggs or cream, and so forth. Even with years of baking experience, common terms like soft peaks, stiff peaks, bake until cake tests done, still seem obscure.

One aspect of failure that cannot be blamed on you as a baker is the faulty, customary U.S system of measurement. The metric weight system has advantages in cake and pastry baking because it eliminates guesswork. For instance, are you confused by two similar recipes, one calling for sifted flour and the other saying: flour, sifted? There actually is a slight difference in the two measurements. A more accurate measurement would be obtained if the flour was weighed. Other ingredients often affected by our risky measuring system are eggs, butter, nuts, powdered sugar. Professional cooks usually weigh ingredients to avoid errors.

The recipes and techniques given for the following Easter cakes are easy to follow, although the cakes themselves are not necessarily uncomplicated. A decadent chocolate bunny cake created by Bruce Marder, owner-chef at Venice’s West Beach Cafe, will win the favor of chocolate lovers everywhere. Marder says the dessert is based on a brownie-type cake, but his is flourless. When making the cake, he advises being careful not to overbeat the egg whites for smoother folding.

The Chocolate Mousse spread on the cake should be smooth before ladling in the ganache, a creamy, sleek and shiny chocolate glaze. Instead of walnuts, hazelnuts may be substituted. Since fresh raspberries are expensive and rare nowadays, any type of berries may be used. The flavor of this truffle-like cake creation is dependent on the type of chocolate used.

Those tired of rich high-calorie frostings will find a nice change of pace in the Quick Apple Cake from “Elegant Desserts” (HP Books: $17.95). Fresh whole apples are baked right into the rum-flavored batter . . . good with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream.

Another frostingless cake is Rich Butter Cake that is wonderful laced with Grand Marnier or other liqueurs. It’s somewhat of a combination of pound and butter cake, using baking powder and separated eggs for leavening. The beaten whites should be carefully folded into the heavy batter. A small amount of the beaten whites gently stirred into the batter before the majority of the whites are folded in will help lighten and smooth the finished batter. The Chocolate Strawberry Torte and the Mocha Praline Cake are more elaborately decorated and will require a little more time to produce a perfect product. Pre-baking and storing of the cakes and advanced preparation of some ingredients will make the final assembly less of a hassle. However, if time is really short and you have to have an easy garnish for an Easter cake, you can always resort to those eternal Easter favorites, jellybeans, as decorations.

WEST BEACH CAFE’S CHOCOLATE MOUSSE WALNUT CAKE

3 ounces butter

1/2 cup ground walnuts

2 1/2 ounces semisweet chocolate, melted and cooled but still flowing

3 large eggs, separated

1/3 cup sugar

Chocolate Mousse

1 carton raspberries

Ganache

Cream butter until very light. Beat in walnuts and melted chocolate to blend. Add egg yolks, one at a time, beating until smooth.

Beat egg whites until foamy. Gradually add sugar, beating until soft peaks form. Gently fold egg whites into chocolate mixture. Turn into buttered and floured 2-quart stainless steel bowl about 6 1/2 inches in diameter. (Or line bottom of bowl with greased parchment paper to prevent sticking.) Bake at 375 degrees 10 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 300 degrees and bake 50 to 60 minutes or until dry. Cool in bowl to room temperature. Cake will be slightly hollow in center after cooling.

Spread a little Chocolate Mousse into cake hollow and fill with raspberries. Cover with more mousse. Flip whole cake over cardboard circle slightly wider than cake. Spread all over with remaining mousse, making sure surface is smooth for Ganache to flow evenly. Chill 1 hour to set.

Place cake on rack with clean tray underneath to catch Ganache drippings. Ladle warm Ganache quickly over chilled cake, covering completely. Ganache will set quickly so transfer to serving plate and chill.

Make 2 long rabbit ear patterns using wax paper. Spoon some of extra Ganache to cover each ear pattern; spread thinly with metal spatula. Chill to set, then peel off wax paper. Fit on base of cake. Cool extra Ganache. Shape small amount into ball and dredge with cocoa to form rabbit’s nose. Using pastry bag, pipe cooled Ganache on cake to form facial features and hair. Outline eyes and ears with powdered sugar icing, if desired.

Note: Plain melted semisweet chocolate or dipping or summer coating (white if desired) may be used for the ears.

Chocolate Mousse

1/2 cup simple sugar syrup (4-cup sugar to 6-cup water proportion)

4 egg yolks

6 ounces semisweet chocolate, melted and cooled but flowing

6 ounces whipping cream, whipped

Bring sugar syrup to boil. Then whisk into egg yolks and beat in top of double boiler until stiff. Beat constantly until mixture is at room temperature. Slowly incorporate melted chocolate, beating at low speed. Fold whipped cream into chocolate mixture.

Ganache

5 ounces semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

1/2 cup whipping cream

2 tablespoons butter, at room temperature

Melt chocolate in top of double boiler over hot water. Bring cream just to boil, then reduce heat and simmer 2 minutes, stirring constantly with wire whisk. Gradually pour cream into melted chocolate, whisking constantly until smooth. Stir in butter and use mixture while still flowing.

Note: Ganache may be stored, covered, in refrigerator, then before using warm to room temperature and place in stainless steel bowl over hot water, beating until smooth and spreadable.

CHOCOLATE-STRAWBERRY TORTE

3 (1-ounce) squares unsweetened chocolate

3 ounces butter or margarine

3/4 cup hot water

1 1/2 cups sifted cake flour

1 3/4 cups sugar

3/4 cup sour cream

2 teaspoons vanilla

1 teaspoon baking soda

2 eggs, beaten

2 tablespoons rum

Red Spongecake Layer

2 1/2 cups whipping cream

1 pint strawberries, hulled

1/2 cup grated semisweet chocolate

1/4 cup slivered almonds, optional

4 ounces white chocolate, shaved into curls

Melt chocolate in top of double boiler over hot water. Combine butter and 3/4 cup hot water in small saucepan. Bring to boil. Stir in melted chocolate. Sift together flour and 1 1/2 cups sugar into large bowl. Pour chocolate mixture into flour mixture all at once. Blend well with wooden spoon.

Mix in sour cream, 1 teaspoon vanilla and baking soda. Add beaten eggs. Turn into greased parchment- paper-lined jellyroll pan and bake at 350 degrees 18 to 20 minutes or until wood pick inserted in center comes out dry. Sprinkle evenly with rum. Cool completely. Cut into 2 lengthwise strips. Peel off parchment.

Whip cream with remaining 1/4 cup sugar and 1 teaspoon vanilla until soft peaks form. Reserve 2 cups whipped cream for frosting. Reserve a few whole strawberries for garnish. Slice or chop remaining strawberries and fold into remaining whipped cream. Divide mixture into 3 parts.

On serving board or platter assemble cake. Alternate 2 strips each of chocolate and Red Spongecake Layer, filling with strawberry-cream mixture. Frost all over with reserved whipped cream, reserving some for piping borders. Sprinkle top with grated semisweet chocolate and almonds, if desired. Garnish sides with white chocolate curls. Pipe border of whipped cream around top edges. Garnish with reserved whole berries. Chill until ready to serve.

Note: The two cake layers may be prepared 1 to 2 days in advance, cooled and individually wrapped in foil. Layers may also be stored, frozen up to 2 months and thawed before assembling.

Red Spongecake Layer

1 cup cake flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

3 eggs

1 cup sugar

1/3 cup water

Few drops red food color

1 teaspoon vanilla or strawberry extract

1 to 2 tablespoons rum

Sift together flour, baking powder and salt. Beat eggs in small mixer bowl until very thick, about 5 minutes. Pour into large mixer bowl. Gradually beat in sugar.

On low speed blend in water, food color and vanilla. Gradually add flour mixture, slowly beating until batter is just smooth. Pour into greased and parchment-paper-lined jellyroll pan, spreading batter to corners.

Bake at 375 degrees 12 to 15 minutes or until wood pick inserted in center comes out clean. Sprinkle with rum. Cool. Cut into 2 lengthwise strips.

MOCHA PRALINE CHIFFON CAKE

2 1/4 cups sifted cake flour

1 1/2 cups sugar

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup oil

5 egg yolks

1/4 cup amaretto

1/2 cup cold water

1 teaspoon almond extract

1/4 cup finely chopped maraschino cherries, optional

8 egg whites (1 cup)

1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar

1 (6 1/8-ounce) chocolate flavor instant pudding and pie filling

3 cups cold milk

Mocha Butter Icing

Almond Praline

1 cup sweetened whipped cream

Sift together flour, 3/4 cup sugar, baking powder and salt. Make well in center and add in order: oil, egg yolks, amaretto, water and almond extract. Stir until smooth, starting from center. Add chopped cherries, if desired.

Combine egg whites and cream of tartar in large mixer bowl. Beat until frothy. Gradually add remaining 3/4 cup sugar, beating until whites are stiff but not dry. Gradually pour egg yolk mixture in thin stream over beaten whites, gently folding just until blended. Pour into ungreased 10-inch tube pan. Lightly tap pan to remove air bubbles.

Bake at 325 degrees 1 hour 15 minutes or until top springs back when touched lightly with finger. Invert tube pan on thin-neck bottle or funnel. Let hang until cake is completely cool.

Prepare chocolate pudding mix with 3 cups cold milk. Chill until thickened. Remove cake from pan and slice crosswise into 3 layers. Fill layers with pudding, sprinkling top of pudding with 1/2 of crushed Almond Praline. Frost top and sides with Mocha Butter Icing, using piping tube, if desired. Garnish top with remaining praline and border with whipped cream.

Mocha Butter Icing

1/2 cup milk

1 tablespoon instant coffee granules

1/2 cup evaporated milk

3/4 to 1 cup sugar

1 cup butter, at room temperature

Heat 1/4 cup milk and stir in coffee granules to dissolve. Add remaining milk, evaporated milk and sugar. Stir well until smooth. Cream butter very well until light and smooth. Slowly beat in milk mixture, beating until smooth.

Note: Sometimes if butter is cold or if not well-creamed, icing might curdle. To save, warm to room temperature and process in food processor until smooth. Then return to electric mixer and beat until light and smooth.

Almond Praline

1/2 cup sugar

1/4 cup slivered almonds

1 teaspoon butter, softened

Heat sugar in heavy skillet over medium heat. When bottom starts melting stir gently to caramelize evenly. Add almonds then butter. Turn into greased pan. Cool. Remove from pan and crush to desired bits.

QUICK APPLE CAKE

6 cooking apples

Juice of 1/2 lemon

3/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons butter or margarine

3 egg yolks

Juice of 1/2 lemon

Grated peel of 1/2 lemon

1 cup flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

6 tablespoons milk

3 tablespoons rum

3 egg whites

Powdered sugar, optional

Peel and core apples. Sprinkle with lemon juice and 1/4 cup sugar. Prepare glaze by melting 2 tablespoons butter and mixing with 1 egg yolk. Set aside.

Cream remaining 1/4 cup butter and 1/2 cup sugar. Beat in remaining 2 egg yolks, lemon juice and lemon peel. Sift flour and baking powder together. Add flour mixture to butter mixture along with milk and rum. Stir until blended.

Beat egg whites until soft peaks form. Carefully fold into batter. Pour batter into buttered 1 1/2- to 2-quart baking dish. Press apples into mixture, spacing evenly. Brush with glaze. Bake at 375 degrees 40 to 50 minutes. Remove from oven and sprinkle with powdered sugar.

RICH BUTTER CAKE

2 1/2 cups sifted cake flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 cup butter, at room temperature

1/2 cup shortening

2 1/2 cups sugar

6 eggs, separated

2 teaspoons vanilla

3/4 cup milk

Grated peel of 1 orange or lemon, optional

1/2 teaspoon cream of tartar

Melted and strained jam or soft butter, granulated or powdered sugar for finish

Sift flour, baking powder and salt. Cream butter and shortening until light. Add 2 cups sugar and continue creaming until fluffy. Beat in egg yolks and vanilla. At low speed, alternately stir in flour mixture and milk. Add orange peel, if desired.

Beat egg whites and cream of tartar until foamy. Gradually add remaining 1/2 cup sugar, beating until soft peaks form. Fold beaten egg whites into yolk mixture until evenly blended. Turn into greased and floured 10-inch bundt pan or 13x9-inch baking pan, or 1 to 2 dozen small round or shaped molds (the egg minicake pan may be used). Bake large cake at 350 degrees 40 to 50 minutes or until cake tests done, smaller cakes 10 to 15 minutes. Cool 10 minutes then remove and turn into rack. Spread with jam or soft butter sprinkled with sugar, if desired. Or sprinkle with liqueur and serve with ice cream.