CHILLED SOUP

The real beauty of this type of entertaining is that it truly is a do-ahead project. The soups must be made in advance in order to chill properly. and the serving will involve no last-minute pressure.

I’m a firm believer in doing things the easy way. And that’s particularly true when it comes to entertaining. To my mind, there’s no excuse for a host to be slaving away in the kitchen while everyone else sits around and enjoys good company. If you do all the work, certainly you’re entitled to be very much a part of the fun.

So--given that premise as a requirement for entertaining--how does one have the best of all worlds when having a party at home?

A buffet, of course, is the easiest way to serve a group. And if you can figure out a good way to make it a do-it-yourself buffet, so much the better. The more you can rely on your guests to look after themselves, the better off everyone will be.

There are numerous do-it-yourself parties that are easy to manage. One that is especially effective in warm weather is built around cold soups. Choose soups that are delicious as is, or that can be enhanced by adding other ingredients at the table.

A tangy cucumber-yogurt soup is wonderful when cold shredded chicken or shrimp or chopped tomatoes are stirred in. It makes a wonderfully hearty, but light, summer meal and when served with some warm, crusty bread is remarkably satisfying. For dessert, serve cookies, fruit and cheese.

If serving a large crowd, one way to expand on such a menu is to serve more than one type of soup. A favorite with my household is a curried apple soup that is accompanied by a group of traditional curry condiments--chopped chutney, coconut, chopped egg, chopped bacon, shredded chicken and chopped nuts. It can be placed at one end of a buffet table with all of the appropriate accompaniments around it, while a beautiful fresh gazpacho with an assortment of chopped fresh vegetables for toppings can be placed at the other end. In between, provide assorted breads and the dessert items of your choice. That way, your guests can eat what they want whenever it suits them. And it will take only an occasional check on your part to be sure supplies are adequate to maintain a stunning presentation.

The real beauty of this type of entertaining is that it truly is a do-ahead project. The soups must be made in advance in order to chill properly. And the serving will involve no last-minute pressure for they can be put out at your convenience. Just nestle the serving tureens, and any perishable accompaniments, in larger bowls filled with crushed ice and they’ll keep beautifully--at least until hunger pangs strike those present and they’re ready to dine.

Sound almost too simple to work? Quite the contrary. It’s so simple, it does work. Give it a try this Labor Day weekend and find out how much fun it is to enjoy your own party.

COLD YOGURT AND

VAROUNK SOUP

(Yogurt-Cucumber Soup)

3 medium cucumbers

6 cups yogurt

2 tablespoons white vinegar

1 tablespoon olive oil

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon finely chopped mint

1 1/2 teaspoons finely chopped dill

Salt

Ice cubes, optional

Assorted condiments: Cooked and chilled shredded chicken, bay shrimp, chopped crisp cooked bacon, sunflower seeds, diced tomatoes, green pepper strips.

Peel cucumbers and slice lengthwise into halves. Scoop out seeds by running tip of teaspoon down center of each half. Discard seeds. Grate cucumbers coarsely. There should be about 3 cups.

Place yogurt in deep bowl and whisk or stir until completely smooth. Gently but thoroughly beat in grated cucumbers, vinegar, oil, garlic, mint and dill. Season to taste with salt. Do not overbeat.

Refrigerate soup for 2 hours or until thoroughly chilled. Place ice cube in each serving. Top with desired condiments. Makes 2 to 2 1/2 quarts.

SOLID GOLD SOUP

1/2 cup minced onion

1 strip orange peel, 2x1/2 inches

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1 tablespoon flour

2 cups sliced, scraped carrots

2 1/2 cups water

2 teaspoons sugar

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1 1/2 cups orange juice

Lemon juice

Salt

White pepper

1/4 cup sour cream, whipping cream or yogurt

Finely chopped mint or chives

Saute onion and orange peel slowly in butter until onion is tender but not brown. Stir in flour, then carrots, water, sugar, ginger and cloves. Cover and cook gently until tender enough to puree, 10 to 15 minutes.

Whirl in blender until smoothly pureed. Blend in orange juice and 1 tablespoon lemon juice. Season to taste with salt and white pepper and additional lemon juice, if desired. Cover and chill several hours.

Serve garnished with dollop of sour cream sprinkled with mint. Makes about 1 quart.

COLD VEGETABLE SOUP

6 cups buttermilk

4 hard-cooked eggs, chopped

2 medium zucchini, diced

2 to 3 small pickles, diced

1 (1-pound) can diced beets, drained

2 green onions, chopped

1 teaspoon creamed horseradish

Salt, pepper

Combine buttermilk, eggs, zucchini, pickles, beets, green onions and horseradish, stirring to blend well. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Chill well. Makes about 2 quarts.

CURRIED SOUP CALCUTTA

1 cup chopped onions

1 cup chopped peeled tart apple

1/2 cup chopped peeled carrots

1/2 cup chopped celery

1 tablespoon curry powder

1/2 cup butter or margarine

2 (10 3/4-ounce) cans chicken broth

1 cup oats, uncooked

1 cup whipping cream

1 teaspoon lemon juice

Salt

Assorted condiments: Raisins, chopped peanuts, chutney, hard-cooked egg, green onions, apple, crisp bacon or shredded chicken

Saute onion, apple, carrots, celery and curry powder in butter in skillet over medium heat about 10 minutes, or until vegetables are tender-crisp. Remove from heat.

Combine vegetable mixture, 1 can broth and oats in blender container. Cover and blend about 1 minute. Combine vegetable mixture, remaining broth, cream and lemon juice in large bowl. Mix well. Season to taste with salt.

Cover and chill 3 to 4 hours or overnight. Soup will thicken as it chills. If too thick, thin to desired consistency with ice water. Serve with assorted condiments. Makes about 1 1/2 quarts.

ICED AVOCADO CREAM

2 medium avocados

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1 thick slice onion

1 1/2 cups chicken broth

1 1/2 cups half and half

3 tablespoons dry Sherry

Salt, pepper

4 to 5 avocado slices, optional

Peel avocados and slice into blender container. Add lemon juice, onion and broth. Blend until smooth.

Add half and half, Sherry and season to taste with salt and pepper. Chill soup thoroughly and serve garnished with avocado slices. Makes about 1 quart.

GAZPACHO

1 end slice dry French bread

3/4 cup garlic wine vinegar

3 cloves garlic

1/4 onion

2 teaspoons salt

8 very ripe large tomatoes

3 large cucumbers, peeled

Assorted condiments: Chopped tomato, green onions, cucumber, green pepper, diced avocado or croutons

Puree bread, vinegar, garlic, green onions and salt in blender. Place mixture in serving tureen.

Blend tomatoes and cucumbers and strain. Add to vinegar mixture, blending well. Chill 12 to 24 hours. Stir well before serving. Serve with assorted condiments. Makes 2 to 2 1/2 quarts.

CHILLED SOUR CREAM SOUP

1 large onion, chopped

3 tablespoons butter or margarine

4 canned green chiles, peeled and seeded

1 cup milk

1 clove garlic, crushed

2 cups sour cream

Salt

Minced chives

Cook onion in butter until tender but not browned. Add chiles, milk and garlic. Heat through but do not boil.

Pour into blender container and blend smooth. Place sour cream in bowl and add onion mixture. Stir until smooth. Season to taste with salt. Chill thoroughly.

Serve sprinkled with minced chives. Makes about 1 quart.

SUMMER ASPARAGUS SOUP

1 tablespoon butter or margarine

1 clove garlic, minced

1 onion, chopped

1 1/2 pounds fresh asparagus or 2 (10-ounce) packages frozen chopped asparagus

2 (14-ounce) cans chicken broth

2 cups water

1/2 teaspoon marjoram

1/2 cup half and half

Salt

Croutons

Heat butter in saucepan, add garlic and onion and saute until tender. Break off tough ends and cut asparagus in 2-inch pieces. Add to pan along with chicken broth, water and marjoram.

Simmer, uncovered, 25 minutes until asparagus is very tender. Place asparagus in blender or food processor along with small amount of broth. Blend until smooth.

Strain through sieve back into broth. Add half and half. Season to taste with salt. Chill well. Serve garnished with croutons. Makes about 2 quarts.