Yesteryear’s hors d’oeuvre trays filled with dull dips and sticky chicken livers wrapped in rubbery bacon have gone the way of the dodo bird as America’s obsession with foods, plus an invasion of chefs from abroad, have sparked a revolution in appetizers. : BON APPETIZERS

Think back to the appetizers of 20 years ago. Dips, dips, dips. And more dips. Remember?

To be generous, let’s also throw in chicken livers wrapped in bacon. They weren’t bad, but they stuck to the roof of the mouth like paste.

Well, those days are gone.

Dramatic shifts of the wind over the past 20 years have brought appetizers of such variety, creativity and scope to the entertaining scene as to boggle the imagination. What did it? The influx of many culinary ideas inspired by professional chefs from France, Italy and the Orient helped. The revolutionary eruption of food--talking, eating and cooking--as an American obsession clinched it.

Today, appetizers are a force in themselves. There are restaurants here and abroad that feature nothing but appetizers. Waiters no longer are miffed when orders for several appetizers replace the single entree. Hosts develop menus to complement them. Societies create fund-raising events around them.

Take the appetizer-wine event on the roof of Le Bel Age Hotel earlier this year by the National Kidney Foundation of Southern California. About 20 of Los Angeles’ top restaurant chefs were summoned to come up with an exciting array of appetizers for invited patrons.

Among the restaurants rounded up by chefs’ coordinator Roy Yamaguchi of 385 North were Seventh Street Bistro, 72 Market Street, Bombay Palace, Cafe Mondrian, Camelions, Colette, Katsu, Angeli, La Brasserie, La Toque, Le Chardonnay, Les Anges, Mandarette, Orleans-Cajun-Creole Restaurant, Prego, Primi, Ristorante Chianti Cucina, Siamese Princess and Trumps.

The result?

Exciting appetizer ideas, indeed.

Although there were some appetizers that take professional know-how to duplicate, many were of the type any cook can tackle.

Claudio Marchesan of Prego in Beverly Hills, for instance, wrapped paper-thin slices of prosciutto around one end of extra long, thin bread sticks.

Marchesan also created tiny fried eggplant rolls filled with cheese held together with wood picks. Bufala mozzarella (fresh mozzarella) slices were also sandwiched with sliced plum tomatoes dressed with extra virgin olive oil and basil.

Angelo Auriana of Primi, an all-first-course restaurant owned by Piero Selvaggio, also of Valentino, introduced black and white tortelli on bamboo sticks dipped in two sauces. The black tortelli is made with pasta colored and flavored with squid or cuttlefish ink. The ink is available upon request at some specialty fish stores, such as Flying Foods Co. International at 1225 Broadway in Santa Monica, or at Pacific Seafood, 8822 W. Pico Blvd. Los Angeles, where the ink is sold in one-teaspoon concentrated packets to be diluted as needed. The ink is best kept frozen until ready to thaw and use or refrigerated briefly to avoid spoilage. Squid ink can also be extracted from whole squid whose ink sacs are intact. To remove the ink from the sac, first carefully cut out the sac and puncture it with the tip of a sharp knife over a measuring cup.

Black tortelli is especially complementary with the Chardonnay cream sauce given here. The white tortelli made with plain pasta is served with a fresh tomato-pepper sauce. Actually, any complementary sauce may be used. The sticks make a handsome display on a tray being passed for cocktail nibbles during the holiday season. The trick, however, is to serve the tortelli warm or at room temperature and the sauces hot.

Chef Yamaguchi came up with a chicken galantine served thinly sliced with Orange-Chile Mayonnaise, an offbeat touch with a classical idea. The novice cook may shy away from boning a chicken, as might some veteran cooks, for that matter. But the same idea can be adapted by using other meats or pates purchased ready-to-eat. The boning of the chicken, in any case, can be left to a competent butcher at a specialty food store. Some supermarkets may provide boning services, as well, so do check.

Once boned, the chicken is laid flat and spread with a stuffing bound with a so-called panada, a mixture of bread or flour and eggs. The filled chicken is then rolled and steamed in chicken stock. Chilling the loaf overnight allows the chicken and stuffing to become firm and compact enough to slice like a sausage.

Camelions’ chef, Elka Gilmore, came up with oysters served with three different sauces--a basil and red pepper sauce, a citrus and ginger sauce and a vinegar sauce, which is made with raspberry vinegar, peppercorns and shallots. The sauces are easy to make, yet glamorous.

Claude Alrivy of Le Chardonnay in Los Angeles served toast canapes topped with an onion marmalade made by reducing a mixture of onion, butter, sugar, vinegar and wine to marmalade consistency. The marmalade is a wonderful touch on toast or served as a condiment with pork or poultry or other holiday roasts. The marmalade can also be a bright idea for Christmas gifts, if made to be stored in sterilized sealed jars.

Parboiling Tiny Vegetables

Executive chef Laurent Quenioux of Seventh Street Bistro dazzled guests with trays of some of the most artistically arranged stuffed miniature vegetables seen anywhere. The same idea can be duplicated by parboiling tiny whole vegetables (plunging them in boiling, salted water until their natural color heightens, about three minutes for most vegetables), such as cherry tomatoes, squash, turnips and carrots, then hollowing them out to stuff with any desired salad fillings, such as chicken, seafood or vegetable salads. You can adopt the same idea using your repertoire of salad fillings.

Bite-size crepes rolled with paper-thin slices of salmon dabbed with caviar were prepared by Patrick Jamon of Les Anges in Pacific Palisades, which can also be easily adapted using your own basic recipes. Make two-inch-diameter crepes by dropping a teaspoon of crepe batter onto a hot pan.

From Angeli in Los Angeles, chef Evan Kleiman brought an array of assorted antipasti, including marinated mushrooms, carrots, zucchini and beans. The vegetables were arranged attractively on a tray, using color motifs to dictate placement. To marinate vegetables, simply parboil them, and when cooled, dress with a favorite Italian or other oil-vinegar dressing.

Ken Frank of La Toque simplified his appetizer presentation by using toast canapes topped with three cheeses and sun-dried tomatoes.

Variety of Meat Pies

Meat pies of various ethnic persuasions also were represented. Mandarette in Los Angeles featured a curried chicken filling in pastry turnovers. They also served Chinese hot spicy beef stuffed in pockets of sesame steam cakes. Chefs from Le Bel Age Hotel and Cafe Mondrian served pastry-wrapped pate among other pates arranged artistically.

Leonard Schwartz of 72 Market Street served ceviche made with shrimp and chili topped with cheese. Celestino Drago of Chianti Cucina prepared tarts filled with Gorgonzola cheese and prosciutto and fried rice balls stuffed with cheese.

Not all the recipes are possible to print here, although variations on a theme may appear in future stories. We have given a representative number to get your holiday appetizer thinking off to a good start.

TORTELLI NERI

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 shallots, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

1/2 pound scallops, chopped

1/2 pound shrimp, cleaned and chopped

1/2 pound sea bass fillets, chopped

10 tablespoons dry white wine

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

2 teaspoons chopped basil

Salt, pepper

1 egg

Black Dough Tortelli

White Dough Tortelli

Butter, softened

Tomato-Red Pepper Sauce

Cream Sauce

Heat oil in skillet. Add shallots and garlic and cook until brown. Add scallops, shrimp, sea bass and wine. Simmer 5 minutes over medium heat. Cool, drain, then add parsley, basil and salt and pepper to taste. Stir in egg, mixing well.

Place 1 teaspoon stuffing in center of each miniature tortelli square or 2 teaspoons for large square. Fold square into triangle, then fold in half lengthwise. Twist around index finger to curl and pinch meeting corners to seal.

Drop tortelli in boiling salted water until tortelli rise to surface, or until tender, about 3 to 4 minutes. Melt 6 tablespoons butter in large skillet, adding more butter as needed. Add tortelli and toss to coat well. Thread tortelli onto skewer, allowing 1 black and white tortelli per skewer. Serve with Tomato-Red Pepper Sauce and Cream Sauce as dip. Makes 30 large or 60 miniature tortelli. Black Dough Tortelli

2 cups flour

2 eggs

1/2 teaspoon oil

1/4 cup water

1/2 teaspoon cuttlefish or squid ink

Place flour in mound on clean surface. Make well in center of dough. Add eggs and oil. Add water and ink to ingredients in well. Using fork, work walls of flour into ingredients in well, mixing to blend, until all dough is incorporated with liquid ingredients and is sticky. Knead on floured board until dough is smooth and elastic. Cover and let stand at warm room temperature about 30 minutes.

Cut dough into 6 portions. Roll out each portion slightly to flatten enough to fit into pasta machine. Roll in machine, starting with widest setting and progressing to finest setting until pasta is thin (expansion takes place during cooking). Continue until all dough is rolled into strips.

Place each portion on floured board and lightly flour. Cut into 5 (4-inch) squares for large and 10 (2-inch) squares for miniature tortelli. Let rest 10 minutes before filling and cooking. Brush edges with water to seal. Continue cutting other strips until all are used. Makes 30 large and 60 small tortelli.

Note: Cuttlefish or squid ink is not commonly available, but can be purchased in 1-teaspoon concentrated packets at Pacific Seafood, 8822 W. Pico Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 859-2969; or Flying Foods Co. International, 1225 Broadway, Santa Monica, (213) 395-1783. Ink is best kept frozen until ready to thaw and use. White Dough Tortelli

Repeat procedure for Black Dough Tortelli but omit cuttlefish ink. Makes 30 large and 60 small tortelli. Tomato-Red Pepper Sauce

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 clove garlic, minced

1 cup chopped tomato

1/2 red pepper, finely diced

1/4 cup Chardonnay

1 teaspoon chopped basil leaves

1 tablespoon whipping cream, about

Salt

Heat oil in skillet. Add garlic and saute until golden. Add tomato and chile. Saute until red pepper is tender. Add Chardonnay. Cook until slightly reduced, about 3 minutes. Add basil. Pour into blender container and blend until smooth. If too thick, add whipping cream to make of dipping consistency. Add salt to taste. Makes about 1 cup. Cream Sauce

1 cup fish stock

1 cup Chardonnay

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 teaspoons chopped chives

Salt, pepper

1/2 cup whipping cream

Simmer stock until reduced by half. Add Chardonnay and simmer until slightly reduced. Add butter and simmer until melted, stirring. Add chives and salt and pepper to taste. Add whipping cream and simmer 10 minutes or until bubbly and slightly thickened. Makes about 1 cup. 385 NORTH GALLANTINE

1 (3- to 3 1/2-pound) chicken

2 tablespoons Madeira

Salt, pepper

1 (3/4-pound) pork butt

Panada

1/4 cup olive oil

2 small red peppers, diced

2 small green peppers, diced

10 mushrooms, diced

1 ear corn, kernels removed and chopped

1 cup chicken stock, about

Orange-Chile Mayonnaise

Remove chicken wing at second joint. Split skin from chicken neck to tail along spine and refrigerate to solidify fat. Bone chicken, starting at skin openings in back and working toward breast. Remove breast meat and cut into 1/2-inch cubes. Place breast meat in bowl and add Madeira and salt and pepper to taste.

Grind remaining chicken meat and pork butt. Add Panada to chicken-pork mixture. Place olive oil in skillet. Saute red and green peppers, mushrooms and corn kernels in olive oil until peppers are tender. Cool, then add to Panada mixture.

Spread out chicken skin on cheesecloth, inside up. Spread Panada mixture over chicken skin to within 1 inch of edges. Top with drained chicken breast cubes. Roll, jellyroll fashion, using cheesecloth as leverage for rolling.

Wrap roll in cheesecloth, twisting ends tightly to form compact roll. Tie ends with twine. Place roll in roasting pan. Add chicken stock. Cover and simmer about 1 hour, or 25 minutes per pound, until done, adding more stock, if needed. Cool, then chill overnight. Place on serving platter and serve sliced with Orange-Chile Mayonnaise. Makes about 12 servings. Panada

2 eggs

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon French four-spice

1/2 teaspoon brandy

3/4 cup flour

1/2 cup half and half

Beat eggs. Add salt, four-spice and brandy, blending well. Whisk in flour until smooth. Gradually add half and half until thick cream consistency. Orange-Chile Mayonnaise

1 cup orange juice

2 egg yolks

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1 tablespoon grated ginger

1 teaspoon chopped cilantro

2 jalapeno chiles, minced

1 cup olive oil

Dash vinegar, optional

Cook orange juice in saucepan until reduced to syrupy consistency. Cool. Whisk in egg yolks, mustard, ginger, cilantro and chiles. Gradually whisk or use blender to whirl in oil until of mayonnaise consistency. Add vinegar. Thin with additional orange juice if too thick. Makes about 2 cups. CAMELIONS’ OYSTERS WITH THREE SAUCES

24 oysters

Basil-Red Pepper Sauce

Citrus-Ginger Sauce

Mignonette Sauce

Place oysters on napkin-lined tray or platter. Surround with 3 bowls containing Basil-Red Pepper Sauce, Citrus-Ginger Sauce and Mignonette Sauce. Allow guests to ladle desired sauce over oyster. Makes 6 servings. Basil-Red Pepper Sauce

1 bunch basil, finely shredded

1 large red pepper, peeled, seeded and cut into fine julienne strips

1/2 cup rice wine vinegar

Juice of 2 lemons

1 clove garlic, minced

Salt

Cracked black pepper

Combine basil, red pepper, vinegar, lemon juice, garlic and salt and pepper to taste. Mix well. Makes about 1 cup. Citrus-Ginger Sauce

Juice of 1 orange

Juice of 1 lemon

Juice of 1 lime

1 teaspoon minced ginger root

1 drop sesame oil

Dash cayenne pepper

Chopped mint

Combine orange, lemon and lime juices in bowl. Stir in ginger root, sesame oil and cayenne. Mix well. Garnish with mint. Makes about 3/4 cup.

Mignonette Sauce

1 cup raspberry vinegar

20 peppercorns, cracked

3 shallots, minced

Combine raspberry vinegar, peppercorns and shallots. Let stand to blend flavors. Makes about 1 cup. CHARDONNAY’S ONION MARMALADE TOAST

24 French bread slices, cut 1/2 inch thick

Butter, softened

Onion Marmalade

12 quail eggs, cooked

24 large watercress leaves

Spread both sides each bread slice with butter. Toast both sides until golden. Spread with Onion Marmalade. Garnish each toast with quail egg half and watercress leaf. Makes 24 appetizers.

Onion Marmalade

1/4 cup butter

2 1/2 to 3 cups minced onions

1/2 cup red wine vinegar

1 cup red wine

5 1/2 tablespoons sugar

2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon white pepper

1/4 cup grenadine syrup

Melt butter in saucepan. Add onions and saute until tender, but not brown. Add wine vinegar, wine, sugar, salt and pepper. Simmer 5 minutes. Add grenadine. Cook until reduced to thick marmalade consistency, about 45 minutes, adding more wine or water, if necessary, to keep from scorching. PREGO’S PROSCIUTTO BREAD STICKS

1/4 pound prosciutto, sliced paper-thin

1 pound extra-long bread sticks

Lightly wrap 1 slice prosciutto around each bread stick, covering only halfway. Makes 1 pound. EGGPLANT SANDWICHES

1 small eggplant, sliced 1/4 inch thick

Coarse salt

Pepper

1 tablespoon chopped basil

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

1 clove garlic, minced

Red wine vinegar

1 teaspoon mashed sun-dried tomato

1 cup fresh goat cheese (Montrachet-style)

Chopped parsley

Place eggplant slices on large tray or baking sheet and sprinkle with coarse salt. Let stand until moisture leaches out bitter taste, about 20 minutes. Drain, rinse and pat dry.

Sprinkle eggplant slices on both sides with pepper, basil, parsley and garlic. Grill over medium coals until wilted but not overcooked, sprinkling with vinegar while cooking.

Stir sun-dried tomato into goat cheese until blended. Spread on each eggplant slice. Roll, jellyroll fashion. Arrange on serving tray or platter. Garnish with chopped parsley. Makes about 12 rolls. ROMA CANAPES

18 slices plum tomatoes, cut 1/4 inch thick

18 (1-inch-diameter) slices fresh (bufala) mozzarella, cut 1/4 inch thick

Extra virgin olive oil

18 basil leaves

Top each tomato slice with mozzarella slice. Sprinkle lightly with olive oil. Garnish with basil leaf. Makes 18 canapes.

KEN FRANK’S CROUTONS WITH THREE CHEESES AND SUN-DRIED TOMATOES

1 narrow baguette, cut into 1/4-inch slices

Olive oil

Cheese Topping

24 small sun-dried tomatoes

Place bread slices on large baking sheet. Brush bread slices with olive oil on 1 side. Bake at 300 degrees until golden brown. Mound 1 teaspoon Cheese Topping on each toasted bread slice. Top each crouton with sun-dried tomato. Cover each with another 1 teaspoon Cheese Topping. Bake at 350 degrees until cheese begins to melt. Makes 2 dozen. Cheese Topping

8 ounces California goat cheese with herbs

8 ounces ricotta cheese

8 ounces shredded mozzarella cheese

1 teaspoon chopped garlic, about

Freshly ground white pepper

In mixing bowl, mix goat cheese, ricotta cheese, mozzarella cheese, garlic and pepper to taste until blended and smooth.