apres SKI

Trendy it isn’t. But an old-fashioned, sizzling stew is a most welcome sight to a thoroughly chilled skier just in from the slopes. Food, real food, is wanted here. Thin slivers of cucumber and chicken atop a few shreds of assorted greens more or less “painted” on a plate may be completely satisfying in a high-style “lowland” restaurant, but no self-respecting high-country cook would dream of offering such a menu to starving apres ski diners.

Skiers and mountain hikers are not the only ones who appreciate the sturdy foods that are so suitable in cold weather. When the temperature drops anywhere, whether one is in a high-rise in the heart of the city or a beach cottage along the coast, it calls for a change in menu planning. The urge for a steaming bowl of spicy chili or a thick ham and vegetable chowder suddenly hits. Chilly weather turns one’s thoughts to the cozy comfort of rich, vegetable- and meat-filled soups and stews that are, in effect, one-pot meals.

One-pot meals have real merit beyond the fact that they tend to be filling. They’re also great for the cook. Most multiple-ingredient soups and stews are very flexible in both their construction and in their service. They can simmer away for hours in a heavy pot on the back of the stove or in a slow cooker, making it possible for the cook to join the others on the slopes. The second advantage to meals of this type is that they are ready when you are. Thus, if part of the group decides to return to the indoor life before the others, dinner will be as appetizing for the late arrivals as for them. It’s hassle-free dining at its best.

A ski weekend in the mountains is a way of life for many Southern Californians. If you are not a habitue, however, be wary of trying to prepare some sort of extravaganza for dinner. Never will I forget the cassoulet I planned to serve one weekend at my mountain retreat. I simmered a batch of dry beans for three days, fully expecting them to become tender at any moment. By the time we finally disposed of them, they were like tiny rocks. We could have paved a road with them. Our mistake? Altitude. High-altitude cookery will fool you every time. We were at 6,000 feet, where water boils at a lower temperature and thus never gets as hot as it does at sea level. That’s just one of the tricky things that happens to food at higher altitudes.

Since that particular episode, I have learned, thanks to an investment in a good, high-altitude cookbook, to raise the oven temperature 25 degrees when I bake or roast foods and to increase liquids and plan on cooking foods longer at that altitude. And next time I try to cook dry beans in the mountains, I’ll see to it I have a pressure cooker.

Since atmospheric conditions change somewhat for every thousand feet, it is impossible to suggest what recipe preparation changes need to be made for the different altitudes. If you have a cabin in the sky, you probably have already acquired a high-altitude cookbook, but if you only spend an occasional weekend in a rented cabin, such an investment may not appeal. In that case, pay a quick visit to your friendly local library and borrow one that will provide any necessary information you might need for the altitude where you’ll be.

Above all, don’t let the thought of cooking problems at a different altitude deter you from cooking at all. Stick to simple foods you are familiar with and you’ll probably have little trouble. Soups and stews may take a little longer to cook and require additional liquid, but unless you are at really high altitudes, you should have only minor difficulties.

Here are some suggestions for one-pot meals that will be popular not only with skiers and other mountaineers, but also with anyone just hungering for simple, well-flavored home-style foods.

BEEF STEW

4 pounds lean boneless stewing beef

Flour

Salt, pepper

1/2 cup oil

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 large onion, minced

2 (10 1/2-ounce) cans condensed beef broth

2 (10 1/2-ounce) cans condensed chicken broth

1 tablespoon paprika

1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce

6 carrots, peeled and cut into bite-size pieces

4 stalks celery, cut into bite-size pieces

8 new potatoes, unpeeled, halved or quartered

1 1/2 pounds small white onions

2 green peppers, cut into bite-size pieces

Cut beef into 1 1/2-inch cubes. Dredge with flour seasoned with salt and pepper. Heat oil in Dutch oven. Brown beef in hot oil, a batch at a time, removing browned beef. Saute garlic and onion in drippings until tender.

Return meat to Dutch oven. Add beef broth, chicken broth and 2 cups water. Bring to boil. Add paprika and Worcestershire. Cover and simmer 2 to 3 hours or until meat is almost tender. Add more water, if necessary. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Add carrots, celery, potatoes, small onions and green peppers. Simmer, uncovered, until vegetables are tender and stew is thickened. Stir occasionally. Adjust salt and pepper to taste. Makes about 10 servings. POLLY BERGEN’S CHILI

3 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons oil

4 pounds lean ground beef

6 onions, chopped

4 green peppers, chopped

6 (1-pound) cans whole tomatoes

4 (1-pound) cans red kidney beans, drained

2 (6-ounce) cans tomato paste

1/4 cup chili powder

1 teaspoon white vinegar

3 dashes cayenne pepper

3 whole cloves

1 bay leaf

Salt, pepper

Hot cooked rice

Saute garlic in oil until golden. Add crumbled beef and cook 10 minutes or until evenly browned. Pour off some of oil and drippings into another skillet. Add onions and green peppers to drippings and cook until tender.

Combine onions and green peppers with cooked meat. Add undrained tomatoes, kidney beans, tomato paste, chili powder, vinegar, cayenne, cloves, bay leaf and salt and pepper to taste. Cook, covered, over low heat 1 hour.

If mixture is too dry, add additional tomatoes. If too liquid, uncover and simmer longer. Serve with rice. Makes 10 to 12 servings. PORTUGUESE LAMB STEW

1/2 cup vinegar

2 cloves garlic, crushed

Salt, pepper

2 pounds lamb neck (bone-in), cut up

2 tablespoons shortening

2 onions, sliced

4 stalks celery, diced

5 cups water

Dash crumbled rosemary

2 dashes crumbled thyme

2 dashes crumbled marjoram

1/8 teaspoon crumbled sage

1/8 teaspoon ground nutmeg

2 bay leaves

1/2 cup dry lentils

3/4 cup rice

1 (1-pound) can whole tomatoes

1/2 teaspoon paprika

1 (8 1/2-ounce) can lima beans

Combine vinegar, garlic, 1 teaspoon salt and 1 teaspoon black pepper. Place lamb in bowl and cover with vinegar mixture. Cover and marinate in refrigerator overnight, turning meat once.

Drain meat. Melt shortening in Dutch oven, add meat and brown on all sides. Add onions and celery and cook 2 to 3 minutes. Add 4 cups water, 1 teaspoon salt, rosemary, thyme, marjoram, sage, nutmeg, bay leaves and pepper to taste.

Bring mixture to boil, then add lentils and reduce heat. Cover and simmer 1 1/4 hours or until meat is tender. Add rice and remaining 1 cup water. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer 20 minutes.

Add tomatoes, paprika and undrained lima beans and simmer about 10 minutes. Makes 6 to 8 servings. VEGETABLE PORK STEW

1 pound boneless pork shoulder, cut into 1-inch cubes

1 tablespoon oil

1/2 cup chopped onion

1 clove garlic, minced

2 carrots, sliced

2 tablespoons flour

2 cups water

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

1 bay leaf

1/2 teaspoon thyme

2 cups shredded cabbage

Brown meat in oil in Dutch oven. Add onion, garlic and carrots. Cook 5 minutes, then sprinkle with flour and mix well. Stir in water and lemon juice.

Add salt, sugar, pepper, bay leaf and thyme. Cover and cook over low heat 1 hour. Add cabbage and cook 20 minutes longer. Makes 4 servings. ITALIAN CHICKEN STEW

2 (3-pound) chickens

1/4 cup flour

Salt

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

6 tablespoons oil

12 small carrots, cut into thin strips

2 cups diagonally sliced celery

4 medium boiling onions, cut into eighths

6 cloves garlic, minced

4 green peppers, chopped

2 (1-pound) cans stewed tomatoes

2 cups Riesling

1 teaspoon crushed basil

1/2 bay leaf

Buttered, parsleyed noodles

Cut chicken into serving pieces. Combine flour, 2 teaspoons salt and pepper. Dredge chicken pieces in flour mixture.

Heat oil in Dutch oven, add chicken and brown on all sides. Drain off fat, then add carrots, celery, onions, garlic, green peppers, tomatoes, wine, basil, bay leaf and salt to taste.

Cover and simmer 1 to 1 1/2 hours or until chicken is tender. Serve with buttered, parsleyed noodles. Makes 8 to 10 servings. EAGLE TAVERN MULLIGATAWNY STEW

3 pounds boneless, skinned chicken breasts, diced

1/2 cup sliced carrot

1/2 cup julienne-sliced green pepper

2 apples, unpeeled, cored and sliced

1/4 cup butter or margarine

1 quart Chicken Veloute

2 teaspoons curry powder

2 whole cloves

Dash mace

Parsley sprigs

1 tablespoon sugar

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

Salt

Saute chicken, carrot, green pepper and apples in butter until tender in Dutch oven. Add Chicken Veloute and stir. Add curry powder, cloves, mace, parsley, sugar, pepper and salt to taste.

Cover and simmer 1 to 1 1/2 hours, stirring occasionally. Makes 6 to 8 servings. Chicken Veloute

1/2 cup butter or margarine

1/2 cup flour

2 cups chicken broth

2 cups half and half

Melt butter in large skillet. Add flour and stir until blended. Gradually stir in chicken broth. Add half and half. Simmer until heated. POTATO-HAM CHOWDER

4 potatoes

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1/4 cup sliced green onions

1/2 cup chopped green pepper

1 teaspoon salt

1/8 teaspoon white pepper

1/4 teaspoon paprika

3 tablespoons flour

2 cups milk

1 (12-ounce) can whole kernel corn

2 cups diced cooked ham

Chopped parsley

Peel and dice potatoes. Melt butter in large saucepan. Add green onions and green pepper and cook until tender. Add potatoes, 2 cups water, salt, pepper and paprika. Cover and simmer until potatoes are tender.

Combine flour and 1/3 cup water into paste. Add to potato mixture. Add milk and cook, stirring, until slightly thickened.

Stir in undrained corn and ham. Heat through. Sprinkle with parsley. Makes 6 servings. SOPA DE ALBONDIGAS

3/4 pound ground beef

3/4 pound ground pork

1/4 cup rice

1 egg

1 teaspoon chopped mint or 1 tablespoon minced cilantro

Salt, pepper

2 quarts beef broth

1 tomato, peeled and chopped

2 small carrots, cut into chunks

1 small zucchini, sliced

4 to 6 small whole boiling onions, sliced

Mint or cilantro sprigs

Combine beef, pork, rice, egg and mint and season to taste with salt and pepper. Mix well. Form into small balls and set aside.

Bring broth to boil in large saucepan. Add tomato, carrots, zucchini and onions and season to taste with salt and pepper. Simmer 15 minutes.

Carefully add meatballs to boiling broth and simmer 30 minutes. Serve meatballs with broth and vegetables. Garnish with mint or cilantro sprigs. Makes 8 servings. NAVY BEAN CHOWDER

1 pound dry navy beans

2 1/2 quarts water

1 onion, diced

1 cup diced salt pork

2 smoked pork hocks

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 teaspoon ginger

1 bay leaf

1/2 cup diced carrots

1/2 cup diced potatoes

1/2 cup chopped celery

5 to 6 frankfurters, sliced 1/2 inch thick

Soak beans in water overnight. Saute onion with salt pork in Dutch oven until onion is soft but not browned. Add beans, water, pork hocks, pepper, ginger and bay leaf. Cover, bring to a boil, reduce heat and simmer 2 hours. Remove hocks and discard skin, fat and bone.

Cut up meat and return to soup with carrots, potatoes and celery. Continue to simmer until vegetables are tender, about 40 minutes. Add frankfurters and heat through, about 5 minutes. Makes 6 servings. SPLIT PEA SOUP

1 pound green or yellow split peas, washed

1 meaty ham bone

3/4 cup chopped onion

3/4 cup diced celery

3/4 cup diced raw carrots

1 large bay leaf

1 teaspoon salt

1 large clove garlic

Combine peas, 8 cups cold water, ham bone, onion, celery, carrots, bay leaf, salt and garlic in Dutch oven with tight-fitting lid. Bring water to boil. Cover and reduce heat. Simmer 2 hours, stirring occasionally.

Remove ham bone. Take off meat, cut into pieces and return to soup. Stir well. Thin with water to desired consistency. Remove bay leaf. Makes 10 to 12 servings. POPCORN TEX MEX

Melted butter, optional

2 quarts freshly popped popcorn

2 teaspoons ground chili powder

2 teaspoons paprika

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 cup cubed (about 1/4-inch) Jack cheese

Butter popped popcorn. Keep warm. Mix chili powder, paprika and cumin. Toss with popcorn. Add cheese and mix thoroughly. Makes 2 quarts. CRUNCHY POPCORN FRUIT MUNCH

3 quarts freshly popped popcorn

2 cups natural cereal with raisins

3/4 cup dried apricots, chopped

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup butter or margarine

1/4 cup honey

Combine popcorn, cereal, apricots and salt in large baking pan. Set aside.

In small saucepan, combine butter and honey. Cook over low heat until butter melts. Pour over popcorn mixture in pan, tossing lightly until well coated. Bake at 300 degrees 30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Store in tightly covered container up to 2 weeks. Makes 3 quarts. MULLED WINE

2 cups sugar

1 cup water

Cinnamon sticks

1 dozen whole cloves

1/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

1/2 cup lemon or orange juice

3 bottles red wine

Peel of 1 orange, optional

Combine sugar, water, 6 sticks cinnamon, cloves and nutmeg in saucepan. Bring to boil and boil 5 minutes. Strain syrup. Add lemon juice. Heat but do not boil. Add wine and serve with cinnamon sticks and orange peel twists. Makes 12 to 15 servings.