After weeks of overindulgence in holiday foods, a relatively light yule feast will be welcomed and will leave the cook time to enjoy the festivities. : Simple Feast

The only drawback to being responsible for a festive Christmas dinner is that the normal seasonal turmoil makes it hard to concentrate on planning and cooking. So what to do? As usual, the best thing to do when the time crunch is on is . . . keep it simple.

After all, by the time the big day finally arrives, most of us are so sated with holiday sweets and other party food that a beautiful but relatively simple meal will be most welcome. So offer your family and friends a menu that will be special, but won’t leave everyone overstuffed.

For a stunning, yet simple, Christmas meal, we suggest a rolled bone-in pork loin roast filled with a delicious apricot-flavored bread stuffing. Begin the meal with a delicate mushroom-flavored consomme and accompany the roast with warm poached pears served with a Cumberland Sauce.

A tangy broccoli vegetable dish and a crisp green salad will round out the main part of the meal nicely. And an easy to make chilled pumpkin souffle that can be whipped up early the day before will provide just the right touch of light sweetness needed to polish off a perfect holiday meal.

A pork roast prepared this way is a genuine showpiece. But for all of its glamorous appearance, it is surprisingly simple to fix. The secret to success is a good sharp butcher knife and a steady hand. Or you can ask your butcher to do it for you.

Begin with a pork roast that has the excess meat trimmed from the tips of the ribs and the backbone sawed through so it can be carved easily when cooked. From there on, it is surprisingly easy to slice the roast in spiral fashion until it has rolled out to a half-inch-thick flat rectangle that is about 12 to 14 inches long. (Photos showing how to do this are on Page 16.) The stuffing is spread over the meat and it is then rolled up jellyroll style and tied to hold its shape. The result is spectacular both in appearance and in flavor.

Most of this preparation can be done the day before. It is advisable, however, in the interest of food safety to refrigerate the stuffing and the roast separately until just before it goes into the oven. It will take about 10 minutes to spread the stuffing on the meat, roll it up and tie it, so allow that much extra time when figuring your roasting time. (And don’t forget to allow an extra 10 to 15 minutes for the roast to rest when it comes out of the oven.)

If you prefer a beef roast for your holiday meal, we offer an alternate menu that is equally easy and simple. Again, much of the preparation can be done ahead, thus allowing the cook to enjoy the holiday festivities as much as anyone else.

Merry Christmas!

CHRISTMAS MENU I

Fresh Mushroom Consomme

Pinwheel Pork Rib Roast or Chestnut-Stuffed Pork Roast

Poached Pears on Spiced Apple Rings

Cumberland Sauce

Crisp Green Salad Vinaigrette

Hot Rolls and Butter

Lemon Broccoli

Pumpkin Dessert Souffle

Coffee , Tea or Cider PINWHEEL PORK RIB ROAST

1 (6-ounce) package apricot halves

1/2 cup apricot brandy

1 7-rib pork roast, about 4 pounds

1/2 cup butter or margarine

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 onion, chopped

2 stalks celery, chopped

1 tablespoon snipped fresh rosemary

1 tablespoon snipped fresh sage

1 tablespoon snipped fresh thyme

1 (1-pound) loaf day-old white bread, cubed

1 to 1 1/2 cups chicken broth

Salt, pepper

Gravy

Soak apricot halves in apricot brandy overnight.

Have butcher prepare rolled pork roast by slicing flat away from ribs and trimming tips of bones for separated effect.

Melt butter in skillet. Saute half of garlic in butter until lightly golden. Add and saute onion and celery until tender. Stir in rosemary, sage and thyme. Remove from skillet.

Drain apricot halves and add brandy to garlic mixture. Reserve 8 apricot halves. Cut remaining into quarters and add to brandy mixture. Stir in bread. Add enough chicken broth to moisten stuffing.

Unroll roast and rub all over with salt and pepper and remaining half of minced garlic. Spread stuffing over meat. Arrange reserved apricot halves in row along edge of shorter end of meat. Roll up. Tie firmly.

Place roast, bone side down, on rack in heavy roasting pan. Place in 425-degree oven. Reduce temperature to 325 degrees and roast 2 1/2 to 3 hours or until meat thermometer registers 165 degrees. Remove roast and let rest 10 to 15 minutes before carving. Reserve about 2 tablespoons fat drippings to make Gravy. (Or skim off fat from drippings and serve pan juices with roast.)

Surround roast with Poached Pears on Spiced Apple Rings and sprigs of fresh herbs. Makes 6 to 7 servings. Gravy

2 tablespoons butter or pork drippings

3 tablespoons flour

2 cups chicken broth

Salt, pepper

Heat drippings in saucepan over medium heat. Stir in flour and cook 1 minute. Add chicken broth and cook and stir until mixture thickens. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve hot with roast. FRESH MUSHROOM CONSOMME

1/2 pound mushrooms

2 (10 1/2-ounce) cans beef consomme

1 soup can cold water

Salt, pepper

Set 1 large mushroom aside. Clean and thinly slice remaining mushrooms. Place in saucepan with consomme and water. Add salt and pepper to taste. Bring mixture to boil. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 1 hour.

Strain soup and discard mushrooms. Clean and slice remaining mushroom into 4 lengthwise slices. Place 1 slice in each of four serving bowls. Ladle soup over mushroom slice and serve hot. Makes 4 servings. CHESTNUT-STUFFED PORK ROAST

1 (5-pound) boneless pork loin roast

1/2 cup finely chopped celery

1/2 cup finely chopped shallots or onion

1 tablespoon butter

1/2 pound ground pork

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

2 tablespoons brandy

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1/8 teaspoon ground allspice

12 to 15 cooked and peeled chestnuts or 1 (15 1/2-ounce) can chestnuts, drained

Gravy

Slice open roast in center and pound lightly to even thickness. Cook celery and shallots in butter until tender. Combine with ground pork, parsley, brandy, salt, pepper and allspice. Spread over roast.

Place row of chestnuts down center of stuffing. Roll meat around chestnuts and tie firmly with string. Roast on rack at 350 degrees 2 1/2 hours or until meat thermometer reaches 165 degrees. Remove roast and let rest 10 to 15 minutes before carving. Reserve 2 tablespoons fat from drippings to make Gravy. Serve roast with Gravy and garnish with lemon peel roses, citrus leaves, steamed broccoli and chestnuts, if desired. Makes about 10 servings. Gravy

2 tablespoons reserved pork drippings or butter

3 tablespoons flour

2 cups chicken broth

1/4 cup chopped chestnuts

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

1 teaspoon brandy

Salt, pepper

Heat drippings in saucepan. Stir in flour and cook 1 minute. Add chicken broth and cook, stirring, until thickened. Add chestnuts, parsley and brandy. Season to taste with salt and pepper. POACHED PEARS ON SPICED APPLE RINGS WITH CUMBERLAND SAUCE

6 to 7 small to medium pears with stems

2 cups plus 1 tablespoon water

1/2 cup sugar

1/3 cup plus 1 teaspoon lemon juice

1 stick cinnamon

1 (10-ounce) jar currant jelly

1/4 teaspoon dry mustard

1/2 cup Port

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 tablespoon water

Bottled spiced apple rings, drained

Peel pears leaving stems intact. In large saucepan, combine 2 cups water, sugar, 1/3 cup lemon juice and cinnamon stick. Add pears. Bring to boil, then simmer, uncovered, turning and basting frequently, 20 to 30 minutes or to desired tenderness.

Heat currant jelly in small saucepan over low heat until melted. Stir in mustard until dissolved. Add Port and remaining 1 teaspoon lemon juice. Blend together cornstarch and remaining 1 tablespoon water until smooth. Stir into jelly. Heat to boiling, stirring until thickened.

Drain pears and arrange each on cinnamon-apple rings. Spoon over sauce or serve on side. Garnish pears with mint leaves, if desired. Makes 6 servings. LEMON BROCCOLI

2 to 2 1/2 pounds broccoli

2 cloves garlic, halved

2 tablespoons oil

Juice of 1/2 lemon

Salt, pepper

Lemon slices

Split thick broccoli stems to heads and steam over boiling water until barely tender. Drain and cut into large pieces.

Saute garlic in oil just until garlic begins to brown. Discard garlic and add broccoli to seasoned oil. Cook until tender, turning pieces frequently. Sprinkle with lemon juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Serve with lemon slices. Makes 8 servings. PUMPKIN DESSERT SOUFFLE

2 envelopes unflavored gelatin

3 cups milk

4 eggs, separated

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg

1/4 teaspoon ground ginger

1 cup canned pumpkin

2/3 cup brown sugar, packed

1/2 cup toasted sliced almonds

Sprinkle gelatin over milk in top of double boiler. Let stand 5 minutes. Place over boiling water and heat to scalding.

Beat egg yolks with salt, cinnamon, nutmeg and ginger. Stir small amount of hot milk into yolks. Combine with remaining milk. Cook, stirring constantly, until mixture thickens slightly.

Remove from heat and stir in pumpkin. Cool until mixture begins to thicken and gel, stirring occasionally.

Beat egg whites to soft peaks. Gradually add brown sugar, beating until stiff but not dry. Fold into pumpkin mixture, about 1/4 at a time, blending until no streaks remain. Fold in 1/4 cup almonds.

Chill 10 to 15 minutes until mixture mounds on spoon. Lightly butter sides of 5-cup souffle dish. Fold long strip of buttered wax paper to make collar for dish 2 1/2 inches above edge. Fasten with tape.

Sprinkle sides and bottom of dish with remaining 1/4 cup sliced almonds, reserving about 1 tablespoon. Turn chilled souffle mixture into dish and sprinkle top with reserved almonds. Chill until firm, at least 4 hours or overnight. Remove collar just before serving. Makes 8 servings. CHRISTMAS MENU II

Shrimp Cocktail

Cajun Beef Tenderloin Roast

Spinach Casserole

Tangy Celeriac-Carrot Salad

Crusty French Bread and Herb Butter

Marbled Eggnog Pie

Fresh Fruit and Nuts

Assorted Liqueurs CAJUN BEEF TENDERLOIN ROAST

1 teaspoon dried oregano leaves

1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves

1 teaspoon paprika

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1/2 teaspoon onion powder

1/2 teaspoon white pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground red pepper

1 (3- to 3 1/2-pound) beef tenderloin roast

Combine oregano, thyme, paprika, salt, black pepper, garlic powder, onion powder, white pepper and red pepper. Rub over surface of roast. Place roast on rack in open roasting pan. Insert roast meat thermometer so bulb is centered in thickest part. Do not add water.

Roast in 425-degree oven to rare, about 45 to 50 minutes. Remove roast when meat thermometer registers 135 degrees for rare. Allow roast to stand 15 minutes in warm place before carving. Roast continues to rise about 5 degrees in temperature to reach 140 degrees for rare. Serve with meat juices, if desired. Makes 6 to 8 servings. SPINACH CASSEROLE

2 pounds spinach, hard stems removed

2 tablespoons chopped onion

1 (6-ounce) jar marinated artichoke hearts

Salt, pepper

1 (3-ounce) package cream cheese, softened

1/2 cup sour cream

1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Rinse spinach thoroughly and cook in 1/2 cup boiling salted water just until tender, about 3 to 5 minutes. Drain well and turn into 1-quart casserole. Add onion and undrained artichoke hearts and mix lightly. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Combine cream cheese and sour cream, blending thoroughly. Spread over spinach mixture. Sprinkle Parmesan cheese over top. Bake at 350 degrees 20 to 25 minutes. Makes 5 to 6 servings. TANGY CELERIAC-CARROT SALAD

4 cups shredded celeriac

4 cups shredded carrots

1/2 cup chopped parsley

1/3 cup snipped chives

1/4 cup chopped dill pickle

1/4 cup capers, drained

3/4 cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons lemon juice

1/4 teaspoon white pepper

Lettuce leaves

Toss celeriac, carrots, parsley, chives, dill pickle and capers together in large bowl. Combine mayonnaise, mustard, lemon juice and white pepper. Pour over vegetables, tossing to coat. Chill. Spoon into lettuce-lined bowl. Makes 6 to 8 servings. MARBLED EGGNOG PIE

2 envelopes unflavored gelatin

1/4 cup sugar

1 quart eggnog

2 (1-ounce) squares semisweet chocolate

1 cup whipping cream, whipped

Chocolate Crumb Crust

Mix gelatin and sugar in top of double boiler. Stir in 1 cup cold eggnog. Place over boiling water and cook, stirring, until sugar and gelatin are dissolved. Remove from heat and stir in remaining 3 cups eggnog. Chill until slightly thicker than unbeatened egg white.

Melt chocolate over boiling water, then stir into half of whipped cream. Fold remaining whipped cream into eggnog mixture. Fold in chocolate mixture, making marbled effect. Turn into Chocolate Crumb Crust and chill. Makes 6 to 8 servings. Chocolate Crumb Crust

1/2 (8 1/2-ounce) package chocolate wafers

2 tablespoons butter or margarine, melted

Crush or grind wafers into fine crumbs. Combine with melted butter. Pat into bottom and sides of 10-inch pie plate. Bake at 325 degrees 7 to 10 minutes. Remove and cool.