MUFFINS

Maxi muffins--oversize quick breads--are substantial enough to be a light meal for one, or shared by two. As the popularity of muffins continues, their size and scope keeps expanding. What was once an almost exclusively sweet category has now evolved into one that’s savory and satisfying. These newer varieties are more dense and moist--packed with meats, vegetables and cheeses.

Some of the inspiration for this flavor trend has been supplied by innovators such as Bob Deal of Real Food Concepts. Working with Safeway Stores Inc., he’s created in-store bakeries in four of the company’s Southland stores, where muffins, savory as well as sweet, can be baked and sold the same day.

The Times’ Test Kitchen adapted three of Deal’s recipes--Broccoli-Almond-Mushroom Muffins, Mushroom-Onion-Cheddar Muffins and Corn Fiesta Muffins--to maxi size. Ideas began to flow and other varieties were created--ideal for snacks, lunches or light dinners when coupled with a mug of soup or bowl of salad.

A couple of the recipes--Spoon Bread Spud Muffins and Cheese-Filled Bacon Muffins--turned out to be equally good for breakfast or brunch. They are fine alone, but also make an excellent accompaniment to eggs.

Certainly, this versatility is part of what makes maxi muffins so appealing. Another plus is their convenience. Bake a batch, then wrap individually and freeze to warm later for a quick and easy meal. An excellent idea for someone living alone.

Preparation techniques are the same, whether muffins are mini, midi or maxi. These techniques are noted in muffin-making tips on Page 14. Baking times are relatively short, so a batch of maxi muffins can be ready to be enjoyed in no time at all.

BROCCOLI-ALMOND-MUSHROOM MUFFINS

1/2 cup chopped onion

1/3 cup melted butter or margarine

1 egg, beaten

1/4 cup sour cream

1/2 cup nacho cheese dip

1 (4-ounce) can mushroom stems and pieces, drained

1 cup shredded sharp Cheddar cheese

2 cups flour

1 1/2 tablespoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

2 1/2 teaspoons sugar, optional

1 (10-ounce) package frozen broccoli, thawed and squeezed dry

Toasted sliced almonds

Saute onion in butter until tender. Combine with egg, sour cream and nacho cheese dip. Stir in mushrooms and Cheddar cheese.

Sift together flour, baking powder, salt and sugar. Add to onion mixture all at once, along with broccoli and 3/4 cup almonds. Stir just until blended. (Batter will be very thick.)

Fill 4 well-greased 4 1/4-inch baking cups 2/3 full and top with additional sliced almonds. Place on jellyroll pan and bake at 375 degrees 40 minutes. Cool in baking cups 10 minutes. Makes 4 muffins.

MUSHROOM-ONION-CHEDDAR MUFFINS

2 cups flour

1 1/2 tablespoons baking powder

3/4 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon sugar, optional

1/2 teaspoon paprika

1 egg, beaten

1/3 cup melted butter, margarine or oil

1/2 cup milk

1/2 cup sour cream

Shredded sharp Cheddar cheese

1/2 cup chopped onion

2 tablespoons dried parsley

2 (4-ounce) cans mushroom stems and pieces, drained

Sift together flour, baking powder, salt, sugar and paprika. Set aside.

Combine egg, melted butter, milk, sour cream and 1 cup cheese. Add onion, parsley and mushrooms. Stir in sifted dry ingredients all at once only until blended.

Fill 4 well-greased 4 1/4-inch baking cups and sprinkle additional cheese on top of batter. Place on jellyroll pan and bake at 400 degrees 35 to 40 minutes. Makes 4 muffins.

CORN FIESTA MUFFINS

1 cup yellow cornmeal

1 cup canned cream-style corn

1/4 cup buttermilk

1 1/2 cups flour

2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda

1 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup sugar

1 egg, beaten

1/4 cup corn syrup

1/3 cup melted butter or margarine

1 (2 1/4-ounce) can sliced black olives

1 (4-ounce) can diced green chiles

1 (12-ounce) can mexicorn, drained

Combine cornmeal, corn and buttermilk and set aside 20 minutes. Sift together flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and sugar. Add egg, corn syrup, butter, olives, chiles and mexicorn. Stir in cornmeal mixture just until blended.

Fill 6 well-greased 4 1/4-inch baking cups 2/3 full. Place on jellyroll pan and bake at 400 degrees 30 minutes. Cool in baking cups 10 minutes. Makes 6 muffins.

WILD RICE MUFFINS

2 1/2 cups flour

4 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup sugar

2 eggs, beaten

2 cups milk

1/2 cup melted butter or margarine

2 cups cooked wild rice, cold and well drained

Sift together flour, baking powder, salt and sugar. Combine eggs, milk, butter and rice. Add to flour mixture, mixing just until dry ingredients are moistened.

Spoon into 6 greased 4 1/4-inch baking cups. Place on jellyroll pan and bake at 400 degrees 35 to 40 minutes or until browned. Cool in baking cups 15 minutes. Makes 6 muffins.

MEAL-IN-A-MUFFIN

2 tablespoons shredded carrot

2 tablespoons finely chopped celery

2 tablespoons finely chopped onion

1 tablespoon butter or margarine

1 cup finely chopped ham

4 cups biscuit mix

2 tablespoons sugar

1 cup shredded sharp natural Cheddar cheese

2 eggs

1 1/3 cups milk

Saute carrot, celery and onion in butter in small skillet until tender. Cool. Stir in ham. Set aside.

Combine biscuit mix, sugar, cheese, eggs and milk in medium bowl. Mix just until dry ingredients are moistened. Fill 6 greased 4 1/4-inch baking cups 3/4 full. Make indentation in center of each muffin and fill with small amount of vegetable-ham mixture. Place on jellyroll pan and bake at 375 degrees 35 minutes or until browned. Remove from pans and cool on wire rack. Makes 6 muffins.

CHEESE-FILLED BACON MUFFINS

3 cups pancake mix

1 cup milk

2/3 cup bacon drippings

2 eggs

1 pound bacon, cooked, drained and crumbled

1/3 cup chopped green pepper

1/3 cup chopped onion

2 ounces American cheese, cut into 18 cubes

Combine pancake mix, milk, bacon drippings and eggs in large bowl. Stir just until blended. Add bacon, green pepper and onion and stir to blend.

Spoon batter into 6 greased 4 1/4-inch baking cups, filling 2/3 full. Press 3 cheese cubes into each muffin. Place on jellyroll pan and bake at 400 degrees 25 minutes or until golden brown. Remove from pans immediately. Makes 6 muffins.

SPOON BREAD SPUD MUFFINS

8 slices bacon

1 1/2 cups water

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

1 teaspoon salt

1 1/3 cups instant mashed potatoes

4 eggs

1 1/2 cups milk

2 cups cornmeal

2 teaspoons baking powder

Maple syrup

Cook, drain and crumble bacon. Reserve drippings to grease baking dishes.

Combine water, butter and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Heat to boiling. Add instant mashed potatoes and stir until well mixed. Remove from heat. Add eggs, 1 at a time, beating after each addition. Beat in milk.

Combine cornmeal, baking powder and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and stir into potato mixture (batter will be thin). Pour batter into 6 well-greased 4 1/4-inch baking cups. Top with crumbled bacon. Place on jellyroll pan and bake at 375 degrees 30 minutes. Serve with maple syrup. Makes 6 muffins.

PIZZA MUFFINS

4 cups flour

2 tablespoons sugar

4 teaspoons baking powder

2 teaspoons finely chopped oregano

2 teaspoons finely chopped basil

1/2 cup minced sun-dried tomatoes

1/2 cup coarsely chopped pepperoni

1 cup shredded mozzarella or Jack cheese

2 eggs

2 cups milk

1/2 cup olive oil

1/2 cup Parmesan cheese

Combine flour, sugar, baking powder, oregano and basil in bowl. Add tomatoes, pepperoni, cheese, eggs, milk and oil and stir just until blended.

Spoon batter into 6 greased 4 1/4-inch baking cups, filling 2/3 full. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese. Place on jellyroll pan and bake at 375 degrees 35 minutes or until browned. Makes 6 muffins.