Art Deco was born in the...

Art Deco was born in the 1920s, blossomed in the ‘30s, and wilted in wartime in the ‘40s. You find the deco influence in everything from jewelry to architecture, but here in Los Angeles we are even able to dine deco. Here are some of the finest places to do it. (Another listing which will group restaurants by varying topics from week to week.) BUBBLES BALBOA CLUB (111 Palm St., Newport Beach, (714) 675-9093). Bubbles is a treasure, a ‘30s-style supper club done with fantasy and wit. The Champagne ice buckets are shaped like top hats and the light fixtures like martini glasses. The walls are hung with original 1930s art and the restrooms are true to deco style. Even the menu is ‘30s-style: The cuisine combines French and Italian elements in a homey American context. Open for dinner Mon.-Thur. 5:30-10:30 p.m.; 5-11 p.m. Fri., Sat., Sun. Sunday brunch 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Reservations advised. Visa, MC, AE. Full bar. Dinner from $9.95-$15.95. QUEEN MARY PROMENADE CAFE (end of Long Beach Freeway, Long Beach, (213) 435-3511). The Queen Mary, originally launched in 1936, is probably the grandest ship ever built. Most of the rich and famous, from the Duke and Duchess of Windsor to Clark Gable, sailed on the ship and strolled around the Promenade Deck. Today this deck houses the Promenade Lounge and Promenade Cafe--a must for the deco diner. Both are decorated with many of the Queen Mary’s original furnishings. Promenade Cafe offers upscale coffee-shop fare including seafood salads, pasta salads and hamburgers. The view while dining is priceless. Open 6:30-11 a.m. for breakfast, 11 a.m.--11 p.m. for lunch and dinner. Full bar. All major credit cards. Parking is $2. Dinner from $5-$15. REX IL RISTORANTE (617 S. Olive, (213) 627-2300). This is Art Deco at its best. Rex occupies the first two floors of the Oviatt building, L.A.’s 1927 deco landmark. Oviatt’s, said to have been the most expensive men’s shop in the country, was built accordingly. You enter the restaurant through the building’s original glass doors, etched and signed by R. Lalique. The walls are lined with narrow oak drawers that once held shirts (they now house wine). Eating here is like being in a time warp: Any minute you expect to see Ginger Rogers and Fred Astaire go sweeping past your table. The food is Italian (nuova cucina) --elegant, expensive and good. Open for lunch, noon to 2 p.m. Mon.-Fri.; dinner 7-10, Mon.-Sat. Reservations. All major credit cards. Full bar. Valet parking. Dinner from $25-$45. SKYROOM (Breakers Hotel, 210 E. Ocean Blvd., Long Beach, (213) 432-8783). The Breakers Hotel, built in 1927, is considered a Long Beach Art Deco landmark. The Skyroom, located on the top floor, is a deco dream in black, white and peach with a multilevel marble dance floor. There is also a spectacular view--even from the restrooms. The restaurant is romantic, and the wonderful food is French/Continental; critic L. N. Halliburton rated dinner here as one of the great dining experiences of 1985. Open Mon.-Sat. Breakfast 7-10 a.m., lunch 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m., dinner 6-10 p.m.; Sunday brunch 10:30 a.m.-2 p.m., dinner 6-9 p.m. Reservations advised. All major credit cards. Full bar. Valet parking. Dinner from $30-$85. THE BLUE MOON (28743 The Old Road, Valencia, (805) 257-1300). The outside of the Blue Moon looks like it might be a truck stop, but inside it’s a deco delight. The peach-toned interior is filled with deco mirrors, wooden sideboards, ceiling fans and even a Casablanca movie poster. The comfortable rattan seats are upholstered in flowered cushions. There is a Wurlitzer jukebox, complete with water bubbles, that plays swing and jazz. The American food features steaks, lobster, salads and sandwiches. Open for lunch Mon.-Fri., 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner 5:30-9:30 p.m.; Sat. and Sun. dinner 5:30-10 p.m. Sunday brunch 10:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Reservations advised. Visa, MC, AE. Full bar. Dinner $6.95-$19.95. UPSTAGE CAFE (Wiltern Building, 3750 Wilshire Blvd., (213) 739-9913). Opened in 1931 as a Warner Brothers theater, this grand old garish green building, whose style was once described as “zigzag moderne,” was saved from demolition by developer Wayne Ratkovich (he also restored the Oviatt building). It now houses the Wiltern Theater and a 12-story office tower. The Upstage Cafe, done up in a modern rendition of the deco style in black and white and chrome, offers generous portions at reasonable prices. The menu has some Greek-inspired dishes-- moussaka, gyros, saganaki-- as well as hamburgers, salads, sandwiches and desserts. A lovely place to eat after an evening at the theater. Open Mon. 7 a.m.-6 p.m., Tue.-Fri. 7 a.m.- 9 p.m., Sat. 9 a.m.-9 p.m. Beer and wine only. MC, Visa. Dinner $5-$10.