Fresh Salmon Quite a Catch

May 1 is a date many California commercial fishermen eagerly await because it marks the opening of the commercial salmon season. This is the bread and butter fishery for many of California’s fishermen.

Physical signs for a successful season are present. Water temperature is about right, and an abundance of food is present in coastal areas. Last year fish were quite large with more than 60% weighing more than 10 pounds, and it is predicted the 1986 season will produce similar results.

King salmon from California are at peak quality during spring and summer months. During this time the salmon eat their fill of shrimp, squid and anchovies in preparation for an arduous journey upstream to their spawning grounds. Salmon caught in the ocean are firm fleshed and tasty with an abundance of fat. As California commercial fishing is restricted to the ocean, one need not be concerned with the inferior quality river-run salmon when buying local fish. Some unscrupulous dealers may attempt to pass off the less expensive river salmon from other states as California salmon. If the scales are not bright silver, or if the skin is black or red in appearance, or if the snout appears hooked like a parrot’s, beware.

Salmon is an assertively flavored, fat fish that will stand up to a red wine while being clean enough in flavor not to overpower a white. Spring and summer is the time for charcoal grilling and fresh salmon is the perfect fish to use. GRILLED SALMON WITH RED WINE BUTTER SAUCE

2 small shallots, diced

Unsalted butter

3 ounces Zinfandel or other red wine

2 teaspoons red wine vinegar

Salt, pepper

1 1/2 to 2 pounds salmon fillets or steaks

Saute shallots in small amount of butter until translucent. Cut 1/2 cup butter into small pieces and soften with back of wooden spoon. Add wine and vinegar and stir. Simmer until liquid is syrupy. Increase heat to medium-high and add half of butter slowly. Stir with wire whisk. When first half of butter has been incorporated, add second half bit by bit. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Keep warm over double boiler.

Prepare charcoal fire and grill salmon until done. Serve fish brushed with small amount additional butter plus remaining butter mixture in bowls. Makes 3 or 4 servings.

--From “The Chez Panisse Menu Cookbook” by Alice Waters.