REELING IN THE BEST OF LOCAL TUNA SANDWICHES

Some days you just have to have a tuna fish sandwich for lunch. Nothing else will do, even though you can’t get to a kitchen to perform your own personal ritual of blending, dicing and spreading that results (after about half an hour) in your version of the “perfect” tuna sandwich.

The process is important: Ask almost anyone how they like their tuna served and you invariably are treated to opinions about brands of mayonnaise, the advisability of rye, and the necessity of using embellishments like pickles, hard-boiled eggs or onion.

Every coffee shop, deli and neighborhood eatery has its own particular way of tossing a tuna sandwich; after judicious sampling, we’ve come up with a list of the best tuna sandwiches in town.

One of the finest is found at a classic hamburger place; even the bread is made to Cassell’s specifications. The tuna salad itself is supremely simple, made only with tuna and mayo. However, the sandwiches have one major idiosyncrasy: The extremely thinly sliced bread measures about 5-by-10 inches, and the result is a monster sandwich. (Some outlets sell the sandwiches by the half.) The sandwich costs $4; gourmets also have the option of a very good half-tuna, half-egg salad version for the same price.

Cassell’s, 3300 West 6th St., Los Angeles, (213) 480-8668, sandwiches 11 a.m. - 4 p.m., Mon. through Sat. Also 6258 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 937-6877, 9 a.m.-9 p.m., and 16324 Ventura Blvd., Encino, (818) 905-6877, 10 a.m.-9 p.m.

Not surprisingly, the Valley is a bastion of the traditional American tuna sandwich. A prime example is the Burbank Studios (for studio personnel only, but maybe you know someone who knows someone who works there). Plenty of lettuce and extra mayo on the wheat bread here, with salty but flavorful tuna diced up with minced celery ($2.75).

The owner of the tiny storefront Juice Fountain uses a rich, malty wheat bread, with tuna blended the way you wish you’d take the time to do it yourself. Lettuce, tomato, alfalfa sprouts and avocado are added in good proportion, and the contrasts between the tuna and avocado in the filling, and then the filling with the wheat bread, are especially flavorful ($2.85).

The Juice Fountain, 4007 E. Riverside Drive, Burbank, (818) 842-4977, sandwiches 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., Mon. through Sat.

The “Blue Fin Pacific” ($4.95) at the Hard Rock Cafe is my personal local favorite: albacore is chopped with crunchy diced water chestnuts and pickle relish that make the sandwich slightly sweet. Extra mayo, lettuce and tomato are standard. This is a large serving; I have yet to clean my plate in one sitting, heaped as it is with French fries, a green salad and the very thick sandwich.

Hard Rock Cafe, 8600 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 276-7605, sandwiches from 11:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m. daily.

At the moment, the Black Whale is a homey crowded pub, but construction on a sizable addition has already begun. Tuna on pumpernickel ($4.95) is a hearty meal, with big chunks of snowy albacore surrounded by a sauce of mayonnaise, mustard and (not too sweet) relish. It is embellished by plenty of lettuce, making a tasty combination. A side of salad or French fries comes with the sandwich.

The Black Whale, 3016 Washington Blvd., Marina Del Rey, (213) 823-9898, lunch from 11:30, Mon.-Fri.

The Cafe Montana is a pretty pastel restaurant that has tried a brave approach by adding chopped chunks of raw onion to their otherwise traditional sandwich ($4.75). The crunchy sweetness is great to bite into, but this flavor might not be so welcome to everyone as it lingers on into the afternoon.

Cafe Montana, 1610 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, (213) 829-3990, lunch 11:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m.

L.A. E.A.T.S. opened as a catering or take-out business about a year ago, but they’ve put a few tables inside and some out on the sidewalk in front. There will be a whole restaurant area as soon as they get the parking situation straightened out. Their tuna sandwiches ($4.95, including a serving of any one of their freshly concocted gourmet salads) are seasoned with lemon juice, capers, cumin and not much mayo; they are pleasingly light in flavor. The crowning glory, though, is the bread: basil, onion-walnut, Anadama, buttermilk or whole wheat, and all homemade! Three or four are available on any given day, and any one’s rich freshness makes the optional half-sandwich-with-salad a filling, normal-sized lunch (3.95). Incidentally, these sandwiches hold up particularly well if you’re ordering them in advance.

LA E.A.T.S. , 1009 W. Washington Blvd., Venice, ( 213 ) 396-5914, sandwiches 11 a.m.-7 p.m. , Tues . -Sun.

Angeli has redefined an American classic with their panino di tonno ($4.50). Generous dollops of white albacore are surrounded by artichoke hearts. Then they are dressed with lemon and a few drops of olive oil before being tucked into the light rolls baked here at the restaurant. This is a positive improvement on the ordinary version.

Angeli, 7274 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 936-9867, sandwiches served from 11 a.m. daily.

Here is the thoroughly modern tuna sandwich ($6). Partners actually puts a piece of grilled tuna steak between two slices of wheat bread. They add alfalfa sprouts, tomato slices and a spectacularly delicate homemade tartar sauce. Something new, and worth it.

Partners and Co., 1836 Hyperion, Los Angeles, (213) 661-0711, lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. daily.