Ianuzzi Ristorante: A Menuzzi for All

Close your eyes and think of any Italian dish you’d like to order. Open them, open the menu at Ianuzzi Ristorante, 12400 Wilshire Blvd., (213) 207-4353, and you will probably find the dish. For this elegant new restaurant in one of those vast office buildings on Wilshire has an enormous menu--the kind Italian restaurants used to have back in the old days.

The service is old-fashioned too--professional, pleasant, absolutely unobtrusive. It’s the kind of place where a waiter can stand quietly mixing a Caesar salad for 15 minutes. But the ambiance, with its black walls, black ceilings and profusion of mirrors, is very contemporary and the kitchen is so modern that the Hong Kong-trained chef does much of his cooking in woks.

At the moment what comes out of that kitchen is still a bit hit or miss, but once they get through the shake-down period, this could turn into a fine new restaurant.