Choose Almost Any Century for Fine Dining in Burgundy Capital

Just choose your century and start walking--anything from the turbulent 11th, when this town became capital of the medieval Duchy of Burgundy, to the brilliant 15th and 18th, when many of its most handsome buildings arose.

You’ll soon understand why Dijon, along with such lovely cities as Rouen, Strasbourg and the delightful old Marais section of Paris, has been designated an architectural heritage of the highest order by the French government.

Burgundy is world renowned for its trove of magnificent Romanesque churches. Dijon has only one of note, and that has been secularized. It seems that during wartime, salt pork was stored there for too long, causing moist walls to weaken beyond safety.

Yet this vital city boasts enough stately old buildings for the most ardent seekers of beauty, many of them capped with the red, gold and black intricate tile pattern characterizing the province.

Here to there: Air France and TWA will fly you LAX-Paris nonstop; Pan Am and American with one stop; Air Canada, Delta, British Airways and British Caledonian with a change. Take French National Railroad’s sleek 170-m.p.h. TGV from Paris’ Gare de Lyon for the 1 1/2-hour run to Dijon, using your handy France Vacances pass.

Getting around: Walk any part of the Old Town; buses leave from in front of the palace for cross-town runs. Many visitors depart Dijon for barge trips through Burgundy.

How long/how much: Two days minimum for the city, another one or two to head south for visits to the vineyards. Once outside Paris, accommodations and dining become very affordable in France, Dijon no exception.

A few fast facts: The French franc was recently valued at about seven per dollar. June through October are good times to visit, the latter a time to forget calories and attend the world-famous food fair.

Getting settled in: Hotel des Ducs (5 Rue Lamonnoye; $36 double with bath, $29 without) is a traditional older hotel at Old Town center, given a modern sprucing up in lobby and rooms but still modest. Breakfast-only here, with rooms on the small side.

Le Chambellan (92 Rue Vannerie; $20-$24) was a home built from the 15th to 17th centuries, also in Old Town; more small rooms with ultramodern furnishings within walls inset with beams. There’s a lovely courtyard in back, a few rooms opening onto it. Tiny lobby, friendly woman at desk, some rooms with huge old armoires.

Du Nord (Place Darcy; $20-$38), a charming place with small lobby, centrally located at end of main shopping street. Timbered ceilings, lots of flowers in lobby, a fine restaurant mentioned later.

Regional food and drink: While it’s practically impossible to get a really bad meal anywhere in France, many Frenchmen consider the regional tables of Burgundy and Normandy the country’s best, with a reverent nod to the galaxy of superb restaurants in Lyon.

A typical Burgundian menu might offer you jambon persille de Bourgogne , boned ham in a parsleyed aspic; boeuf Bourguignon; ami du chambertin et noix , a semi-pungent cheese with walnuts; and a sorbet aux baies de cassis , a sherbet with fresh black currants. Snails are prepared beautifully all through Burgundy, while Epoisses, Citeaux and numerous chevres are cheeses worth a try.

Dijon is of course noted for its mustard, Grey Poupon having opened its first shop here in 1777. Pain d’epice de Dijon is a much- favored sweetbread gaining its subtle flavor from anise.

Kirs seem to taste better here, probably because more cassis is used. Boudier is a brand made in Dijon, and the labels are gorgeous. Many locals nibble walnuts with their kir.

Moderate-cost dining: Le Clos des Capucines (3 Rue Jeannin), named for a summertime yellow flower, is in a lovely 14th-Century home, all beamed ceilings, antique wooden cabinets, fresh flowers and a huge fireplace where they do steaks and chops. The sample menu above came from Capucines, $11 plus wine, but you may select from two other menus a bit more expensive.

Brasserie la Concorde (Place Darcy) is so French you could end up fluent in the language after a few meals there. Polished brass, scurrying waiters, banquettes lined with people having a drink, coffee or dining on such simple fare as grilled pigs feet, croque monsieur or snails. We settled on oeufs en meurette , eggs in a heavy red-wine sauce with bacon bits for $3.25, and andouillettes Dijonnaise , little pork sausages in a mustard sauce, same price.

Du Nord’s dining room, mentioned above, is a most attractive place, silver candelabra on crisp pink linen, substantial local types dining well on gigot au thym , leg of lamb with thyme for $8.50, mignon de porc , medallions of pork with garlic and rosemary, $7.

Going first class: Hotel de la Cloche (Place Darcy; $63-$70) has been an auberge since 1424, rebuilt through the centuries into Dijon’s finest, its classic and stately facade overlooking the flower-strewn square. Try for a room on the top floor beneath beams from an earlier day, and by all means dine in its spectacular cellar restaurant.

Les Caves de la Cloche, raised to two stars overnight by Chef Jean-Pierre Billoux, is the most elegant cellar you can imagine, serving five- or six-course menus for $29 or $48. The cote de veau au miel , veal in a honey glaze, gratin de champignons des bois , a wild-mushroom medley, were both ventures into the realm of gods, formidable indeed.

Le Pre-aux-Clercs et Trois Faisans (13 Place de la Liberation) set its first table in 1833 and has been bringing smiles to diners since. Framed-timber ceiling, stone walls, an old home in the 17th- and 18th-Century circular arcade fronting the palace, most inviting. The cassolette d’escargots au meursault was altogether masterful.

On your own: Begin with a visit to the ducal palace and its museum, both spectacular. Then see the Church of St. Michel, most noted for its Renaissance facade, and make a turn around the adjoining square with its marvelous houses. Scan the shops along Rue de la Liberte and, before your trip through Burgundy’s vineyards, visit La Cour aux Vins cellar beneath Le Clos des Capucines restaurant for a briefing and tasting of what you’re about to enjoy.

For information call the French Government Tourist Office at (213) 271-6665 or write (9401 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 840, Beverly Hills 90212) for a pictorial map of northeast France, plus a list of hotels. Ask for Dijon Package.