Cakewalk Through Paris

Chefs are frequently asked

where they get ideas for recipes. It’s not an easy question to answer. Some ideas, of course, are thoroughly original. Others

are developed by modernizing old

favorites. The Peach Mirror Cake featured here is a California-style adaptation

of a French classic. While window shopping at some famous Parisian pastry shops several years ago, Los Angeles food stylist Olivia Erschen came

across numerous miroir cakes, plain but pretty desserts iced with a thin gelatin coating flavored with cassis, raspberries or strawberries. This delicate, transparent topping gave the simple cakes a

delicious touch of additional flavor. Erschen decided to create her own miroir masterpiece. But while appreciating the simplicity of the unadorned French cakes, she designed a beautiful mosaic of peaches and raspberries in a pale peach gelatin for her version of this summertime dessert. Recipe on Page 36.

PEACH MIRROR CAKE Almond Biscuit Peach Juice Peach Syrup 2 ripe peaches, peeled, coarsely chopped and tossed in lemon juice Peach Bavarian Cream Peach Mirror 3 ripe peaches, peeled, sliced into -inch slices, and tossed in lemon juice 1 box fresh raspberries

To assemble cake, lightly oil the sides of a 10x2-inch spring-form pan. Place one circle of Almond Biscuit in pan; brush lightly with half of Peach Syrup. Sprinkle half of coarsely chopped peaches over cake. Pour half of Bavarian Cream over cake (cream will surround edges of cake). Place second layer of Almond Biscuit on top of Bavarian Cream. Brush lightly with remaining Peach Syrup. Sprinkle remaining chopped peaches on cake and pour remaining Bavarian Cream over, filling pan to inch of top. Smooth surface. Refrigerate cake until set, about 2 to 4 hours.

When cake is set, pour a 1/8-inch layer of Peach Mirror over top of cake. Arrange peach slices and raspberries on top. Carefully brush some of Peach Mirror syrup over fruit pieces so they are embedded in a thin layer (there may be some syrup left over). Refrigerate until syrup is set.

To serve, wrap a hot, wet towel around outside of pan for a few minutes. Run a small sharp knife around edge of peach mirror to separate it from sides of pan. Slowly unlatch pan and slide it off cake. Makes 16 to 20 servings.

Almond Biscuit 1 cups finely ground blanched almonds Sugar 3 eggs 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 3 egg whites 1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar cup sifted cake flour 2 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled

Butter and flour sides of an 17x11-inch jellyroll pan. Line bottom of pan with sheet of parchment paper. Place almonds and cup sugar in large bowl. Beat in eggs one at a time and continue beating until mixture is light and thick (about 5 minutes). Beat in vanilla. In separate bowl, beat egg whites with cream of tartar until soft peaks form. Gradually add cup sugar, beating until whites are stiff but still glossy. Fold of whites into almond mixture. Sift flour over mixture and fold in carefully. Fold in remaining egg whites. Mix cup of this batter into melted butter, then fold butter into remaining batter. Spread batter evenly on jellyroll pan. Bake at 450 degrees about 10 minutes or until cake is light brown. Remove from oven and cool in pan 5 minutes. Slide cake onto cooling rack and cool completely. When cool, turn cake over and peel off parchment. Cut out 2 8-inch circles from cake; set aside.

Peach Juice 3 ripe peaches cup lemon juice cup sugar 1 1/2 cups water

Peel and pit peaches. Chop coarsely and toss in lemon juice. Combine peaches, sugar and water in saucepan. Crush peaches to start juices flowing. Simmer mixture for 15 minutes, stirring occasionally. Line a fine-meshed sieve with several layers of damp cheesecloth (or use a jelly bag). Position sieve over deep bowl and pour peaches and juice through sieve. Allow juice to drain off for 5 minutes (do not press on peaches). Reserve Peach Juice for use in Peach Syrup, Peach Bavarian Cream and Peach Mirror. Discard cooked peaches or save for other uses.

Peach Syrup cup Peach Juice 2 tablespoons kirsch Combine Peach Juice and kirsch in small bowl. Reserve for cake assembly.

Peach Bavarian Cream cup Peach Juice 2 tablespoons kirsch 2 1/2 tablespoons unflavored gelatin 5 egg yolks cups sugar 1 1/2 cups milk teaspoon almond extract 2 teaspoons lemon juice 2 ripe peaches, peeled, finely chopped, and tossed in lemon juice 1 1/2 cups whipping cream

In small bowl, combine Peach Juice and kirsch. Sprinkle gelatin over mixture to soften. In medium bowl, beat egg yolks and sugar until light. In large saucepan, bring milk to boil. Pour hot milk into egg-yolk mixture and stir to blend. Return mixture to saucepan. Stir over medium heat until your finger leaves a clear trail in sauce when drawn across back of a wooden spoon. Do not boil or mixture will curdle. Remove from heat and stir in softened gelatin. Pour into large stainless-steel bowl positioned over ice. Stir in almond extract and lemon juice. Cool over ice water, stirring frequently, until mixture is tepid. Stir in finely chopped peaches and cool until mixture begins to thicken and resembles consistency of lightly whipped cream. Beat whipping cream until soft peaks form. Fold into cooled custard.

Peach Mirror Peach Juice 1 tablespoon kirsch 1 teaspoon lemon juice 2 teaspoons unflavored gelatin

In small stainless-steel bowl, combine 2 tablespoons Peach Juice, kirsch and lemon juice. Sprinkle gelatin over mixture and set aside until spongy and soft. Bring 1 cup Peach Juice to boil and pour over gelatin mixture. Stir until gelatin is dissolved. Set bowl over larger bowl of ice water and stir frequently until mixture is syrupy and just beginning to thicken (but not jelled). Remove from ice water.

PRODUCED BY ROBIN TUCKER

TABLEWARE FROM DAVID ORGELL, BEVERLY HILLS

LINENS FROM PRATESI, BEVERLY HILLS