Picnic Baskets : Two wicker baskets, one attached to a hot air balloon and a second packed with delectable food, add up to a very special picnic brunch.

When most people invite you to join them for a picnic, it means packing a basket or cooler, jumping into the car and taking off for an afternoon at a favorite spot--be it the park, seashore or mountains. It’s a little different when the invitation is extended by Ron Mesker and his wife, Sherre Carnes.

To begin with, their picnic starts at dawn. Make that before dawn, even long before dawn, for anyone who doesn’t live in--or isn’t staying in--the vicinity of Temecula, Calif., where conditions are ideal for hot-air ballooning. In case it isn’t obvious by now, the Mesker’s outing includes a lofty ride.

While the balloon is being inflated, there’s time to sip coffee, nibble pastries and watch the crew working to ready the huge craft for flight. Not much time though--because, at least to this novice, such a huge balloon rises into the early morning sky surprisingly fast.

The scenario of a hot-air balloon ride goes something like this: Once inflated, the balloon is ready to go with the winds and must be held down, or tethered, long enough for two people to climb into the wicker gondola along with the pilot. Then off it goes, with crew and remaining guests piling into the chase vehicle to follow along on terra firma.

Since even experienced pilots have only so much control over the balloon’s course, the direction it takes is determined by the wind, and chasers must simply try to keep up. Both rides--the one in the air and the one on the ground--can be quite adventuresome.

This type of ballooning--strictly for enjoyment, rather than racing or setting distance records--is done in the early morning hours, when the wind is calm and distance covered is limited to a few miles. Each time the balloon sets down, the chase vehicle catches up and there’s a scramble as the chasers change places with the original balloon riders. Then the balloon is off on another hop (as balloon flights are called), the intermittent roar of the propane heater contrasting with the silence of simply floating along. Down on the ground, others in the party continue to bump over the countryside.

After everyone has had a chance to ride, there’s the traditional bottle of Champagne to be imbibed before deflating and packing the balloon. By this time even novices are calling the yards and yards of fabric by the proper name, envelope, as they line up in fire brigade formation and carry the material to the storage case. After each load, everyone sits on top to pack it down. There’s plenty of tripping and falling over each other, but finally everything is loaded into the truck, including the gondola, which weighs a hefty 250 pounds.

Even after all this activity, it’s probably only 9:30 or 10 in the morning. But if that sounds a bit early for lunch, you’re wrong. Fortunately, the Meskers know ballooning works up hearty appetites, and they have an elegant picnic tucked away in the chase vehicle.

Mesker is an enthusiastic cook whose years in the restaurant business have provided him ample opportunity to develop recipe ideas. He’s currently president of the Love’s Barbecue Restaurants chain and enjoys taking advantage of the company’s hot-air balloon to entertain, while also showing off his expertise as a chef.

A few of his favorite picnic recipes, along with a sinfully rich dessert developed by Sherre, can make an ideal alfresco menu for Labor Day weekend, even for those not lucky enough to enjoy a hot-air balloon ride. The fanciful recipe titles give a bit more insight into the Meskers’ fun-loving nature.

To round out the sumptuous picnic/brunch, Mesker recommends a well-chilled California Fume Blanc, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc or Zinfandel Blanc be served with the meal and a very cold bottle of California Malvasia Bianca with dessert.

MESKER’S BALLOON-RIDE PICNIC

Scallops Ceviche Stuffies

Confetti Frittata With Fresh Basil-Tomato Sauce

Cajun Two-Step Chicken Legs

Plantation Slaw With Maple-Mustard Dressing

Fresh Fruit and Selection of Cheeses

Chocolate-Pecan Preposterous Bars SCALLOPS CEVICHE STUFFIES

1 large sweet red pepper

3 medium tomatoes

1 pound bay scallops

3/4 cup lime juice

1/4 cup dry white wine

1/2 cup olive oil

4 green onions, sliced

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon crushed oregano leaves

2 tablespoons finely chopped cilantro

6 to 10 red leaf lettuce cups

1 to 2 avocados

6 to 10 (6-inch) sesame seed pita breads

1/2 cup coarsely chopped black olives

Roast pepper under broiler, turning as needed, until skin is blistered and charred. Place in plastic bag and cool 5 minutes. Then peel, remove seeds and membranes and coarsely chop. Peel, seed and coarsely chop tomatoes.

Rinse scallops well. Place in 9x9-inch baking dish. Combine chopped pepper and tomatoes, lime juice, wine, 1/4 cup olive oil, green onions, salt, oregano and cilantro. Stir into scallops. Cover with plastic wrap or tight fitting lid and marinate overnight (not more than 12 hours), stirring occasionally.

Bring lettuce cups to room temperature. Remove core section from each cup. Cut 1-inch slice from top of each pita bread and open carefully to form pocket. Line each pocket with lettuce cup.

Peel, seed and slice avocados into 1/2-inch wedges. Drain excess liquid from scallop mixture. Place 2 heaping tablespoons scallop mixture and 1 avocado wedge in each pita bread. Sprinkle each with 1 tablespoon olives and drizzle with 1 teaspoon olive oil. Makes 6 to 10 sandwiches. CONFETTI FRITTATA

1/2 pound pancetta

6 eggs

Salt, pepper

1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese

5 ounces goat cheese

6 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon olive oil

4 green onions, chopped

2 large cloves garlic, finely chopped

2 medium carrots, cut in 1/4-inch slices

1 medium sweet red pepper, chopped

3 ounces (about 18) small broccoli florets

2 yellow crookneck squash, cut in 1/4-inch slices

1 tablespoon chopped oregano

Fresh Basil-Tomato Sauce

Slice pancetta 1/8 inch thick. Saute until well browned. Drain on paper towels. Cut into 1/2-inch pieces and set aside.

Beat eggs with salt and pepper to taste in medium bowl. Beat in Parmesan cheese. Fold in goat cheese.

Melt 3 tablespoons butter with oil in heavy 10-inch non-stick skillet. Add green onions and garlic and saute over medium-low heat about 1 minute. Add carrots and red pepper and saute 6 to 7 minutes. Add broccoli and squash and saute 4 to 5 minutes.

Remove vegetable mixture with slotted spoon to large bowl. Stir in egg-cheese mixture. Stir in oregano and pancetta pieces.

Melt remaining 3 tablespoons butter in skillet. Add vegetable mixture and cook over medium heat 5 to 6 minutes or until bottom of frittata is lightly browned. Place large plate on top of skillet and turn frittata onto plate. Slide frittata back into skillet and continue cooking 4 to 5 minutes longer.

Slide frittata onto large serving dish. Cool to room temperature. Serve with Fresh Basil-Tomato Sauce. Makes 8 appetizer servings.

Note: Thick-sliced bacon may be substituted for pancetta. Fresh Basil-Tomato Sauce

4 large tomatoes

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

2 tablespoons chopped basil

Salt, pepper

Peel, seed and finely chop tomatoes. Heat oil in medium saucepan. Add garlic and saute 2 minutes. Add tomatoes and basil. Cover and simmer 10 to 12 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Cool to room temperature. Makes 2 1/2 cups sauce. CAJUN TWO-STEP CHICKEN LEGS

12 chicken drumsticks

2 teaspoons salt

1 1/2 teaspoons cayenne pepper

1 teaspoon onion powder

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon dry mustard

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1 teaspoon cocoa powder

1 teaspoon paprika

1/2 teaspoon white pepper

1/2 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 teaspoon crushed thyme leaves

1/2 teaspoon crushed oregano leaves

1/2 teaspoon crushed tarragon leaves

1/2 teaspoon crushed basil leaves

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1 cup flour

3/4 cup peanut oil

Rinse chicken and pat dry with paper towels. Combine salt, cayenne, onion powder, garlic powder, dry mustard, cumin, cocoa, paprika, white pepper, black pepper, thyme, oregano, tarragon, basil and cinnamon.

Combine 1 tablespoon spice mix with flour in paper or plastic bag. Rub remaining spice mix evenly over chicken, rubbing in well. Heat oil in large skillet. Shake chicken in flour and spice mixture until well coated.

Cook chicken in oil, uncovered, 8 to 10 minutes on each side. Drain on paper towels. Place in shallow baking dish and bake at 375 degrees 30 minutes. Makes 12 appetizer servings. PLANTATION SLAW

1/2 head red cabbage (about 8 cups chopped)

1/2 head green cabbage (about 8 cups chopped)

Maple-Mustard Dressing

1 cup salted, roasted peanuts

Coarsely chop cabbage, wash and drain thoroughly. Place in large bowl and add dressing to desired moistness. Toss in peanuts. Makes 4 2/3 cups. Maple-Mustard Dressing

1 1/3 cups mayonnaise

1/2 cup Dijon mustard

1/2 cup vinegar

2 tablespoons sugar

1 teaspoon onion powder

1 teaspoon garlic powder

1/2 teaspoon white pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground cloves

1/2 teaspoon hot pepper sauce

1 cup pure maple syrup

1 1/2 cups peanut oil

1 tablespoon celery seeds

1/4 cup chopped Italian parsley

Whisk together mayonnaise, mustard and vinegar in large bowl until smooth. Add sugar, onion powder, garlic powder, white pepper, cloves and hot pepper sauce. Blend thoroughly. Add maple syrup and mix well.

Slowly add oil, whisking continuously until smooth. Blend in celery seeds and parsley. Refrigerate overnight to blend flavors. Makes about 5 cups.

Note: Dressing may be prepared in electric blender and can also be used for green salad.

Variation: Substitute poppy seeds for celery seeds and use as fruit salad dressing. CHOCOLATE-PECAN PREPOSTEROUS BARS

1 1/2 cups salted pecans

1 cup butter or margarine

1/2 cup brown sugar, packed

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 egg yolk

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 teaspoon almond extract

1 3/4 cups flour

10 to 12 ounces semisweet or milk chocolate, chopped

Line baking pan with foil and roast pecans at 350 degrees 10 minutes, stirring several times until browned. Set aside to cool.

Place steel blade in food processor container. Add butter, brown sugar, granulated sugar, egg yolk, vanilla and almond extract. Process until thoroughly blended.

With motor running, slowly add flour until just blended. Spread mixture in lightly greased 13x9-inch baking pan. Bake at 350 degrees 20 minutes.

Remove crust from oven and immediately sprinkle chocolate pieces over hot dough. Spread chocolate as it melts. If necessary, return pan to warm oven to completely melt chocolate.

Sprinkle pecans evenly over top and press lightly into chocolate with fingers. Cut into squares, but allow to cool completely before removing from pan. Makes 12 bars.

Note: Pecans may be chopped, if desired. Macadamia nuts, walnuts or almonds may be substituted for pecans.