CONVERSATION: LET’S TALK

More and more people are discovering the gastronomical rewards and unique character of La Conversation, a little patisserie on the north end of Hillhurst just before it reaches Los Feliz and disappears into the wilds of Griffith Park.

For a host of early morning joggers, mountain hikers and office-bound workers, it is a regular pit stop to pick up probably the best, certainly the freshest croissant in town.

Some are waiting for the first batch to come out of the oven at 7:30. Those may be plain or stuffed with an original recipe of stuffed zucchini and cheddar cheese. The second batch appears piping hot at 8 and could be stuffed with spinach and cheese or lox, cream cheese and onion. At 8:30 the oven doors will open to the last mixed batch of croissants ready to send the remaining travelers on.

But it’s not just the croissants, the fresh Italian fruit tarts, raspberry chocolate mousse or other gourmet delights that attract the regulars. It’s the atmosphere, the personable staff, the soft sound of classical music sometimes accompanied by the booming voice of the chef in the kitchen and the sight of good original paintings on the wall.

If you sit at one of the two little tables one of the staff will bring you coffee, tea, fresh orange juice or cider to go with your pastry-- perhaps one of their original macademia nut hearts or the Milanese, a delicious hazelnut tea cake. Enjoy and eat confidently for chef/owner Steve Carson makes his own dough, uses real butter, no fats, lards, shortening, artificial flavors, chemicals or volume and flavor enhancers. You can be sure it’s fresh for Carson bakes only what he believes will sell that day and boasts of never having sold a day-old croissant. If there are any left they’re given to charitable groups.

As you relax and look around the room you realize no decorator ever worked here. The place just happened. On one wall is a large mirror encompassed by an overly wrought gold frame, useful for checking yourself while waiting. On a ledge over the door sits a Roman bust. On the counters are a few stems and large bouquets of fresh flowers in containers ranging from milkshake cartons to Perrier bottles and cut glass bowls. The wall of paintings is always changing.

One is soon distracted from this unusual environment by the even more intriguing customers. It’s little theater at its best. Among the unusual regulars is a philosopher armed each time with new questions for the staff and friends. “What is the soul?” she asks. “Why must the world end?” “Why did the animals go into the Ark two by two?” All of which leaves everyone at a loss.

A well-known artist comes daily to see what the French waitress is wearing and to get his “enchantment.” Sometimes he gets so enchanted that he leaps about like a chicken with his elbows flapping, endangering pastries and customers. On a quieter note, until lately one of the regulars was a blind lady who found her way in to be read to by the staff when there was a lull.

Then there is the woman who can’t wait and marches in back of the counter and picks out what she wants. She may be followed by the window washer who first asks for the stock market report and, like Liza Doolittle’s father, refuses to take any more than originally requested by him. As sure as the sun will come up that elderly couple will arrive in the morning arguing and leave arguing.

The only kind of argument one hears about the La Conversation is what kind of croissant is best or whether one should take home one luscious raspberry chocolate mousse or four scrumptious St. Honores. One shouldn’t, but one will.

La Conversation, 2118 N. Hillhurst Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 666-4900