All-American Favorites at Yanks

“This restaurant would be in trouble,” the man at the next table was saying, “if not for the investors.” He surveyed the room, nodding and waving at his comrades who were eating chicken pot pies, spicy meatloaf, crab cakes, grilled fish and big salads with a proprietary air. I looked around Yanks (262 S. Beverly Drive, Beverly Hills, (213) 85-YANKS) with its clean, understated look, its crisp white tablecloths and captain’s chairs, and I got the feeling that I was the only one who did not own a piece of the place.

“I think you’ll like this,” said the man at the next table, turning to me and pointing at a pot of good old macaroni and cheese. (I did.) “And aren’t these biscuits delicious?” (They were.) “I’m just so proud of our food.” His pride is understandable.

The food--American favorites like chili and Caesar salads and homemade potato chips--is fresh and fine and generously served. Desserts are comforting and homey (try the spice cake) and prices are moderate (main courses run from $8.50 to $16; at lunch it is easy to spend less than $10). And this is not to mention the service; my waitress was wonderful, but she had a little help from the man at the next table.