Bubbles, Poufs Punctuate the Adolfo Show
“I seem to approach each collection as if I were creating a perfume, blending basic, well-loved style elements with ‘top notes’ of our own,” says designer Adolfo in the show notes for his spring collection, presented at the St. Regis Hotel here this week.
“The result is meant to please and intrigue the women who wear our clothes. These women reject an overpowering fad as they do an overpowering scent. They loathe the term ‘high style’ as much as I do.”
One would generally not argue with Adolfo’s pronouncements. His collections are always liberally sprinkled with the Chanel-inspired suits that are his signature, and they are aimed at a well-heeled, conservative clientele that includes First Lady Nancy Reagan.
But once the spring show got under way, “pouf” went Adolfo’s edict against high style.
An array of flounces, bubbles, petticoats and, yes, poufs, came down the runway--all of them the newest “high styles” for spring from the most directional designers in the United States and Europe.
There were short, full, pinafore dresses in hand-painted organza that might be called Adolfo in Wonderland.
A navy, sailor-top number puffed into port with a short, white taffeta bubble skirt. Strapless polka-dot dresses (dots make quite a point throughout the collection) was flounced in layers to above the knee. And if you recall the dress Scarlett O’Hara wore in the first scene of “G.W.T.W.,” you can picture Adolfo’s puff-sleeve, bib dresses in gray, black or white taffeta with full, ruffled skirts--except Scarlett gets cut short to the knee for spring.
His Chanel interpretations this season include simple plaid cardigan jackets over pristine, white wool skirts and silk shells or blouses. There are also clean-line, brass-button coat dresses and dotted chemises with jeweled details.
Every season, Adolfo has what he calls “my favorite dress.” For spring, it’s a striped, knit short-sleeve blouson style with a hip yoke and a skirt that flares into pleats below the hip.
For evening, he abandons the jeweled looks favored in recent seasons in favor of lace. There are lace accents on short chemise dresses and black lace jackets over long, slip-top dresses or short, taffeta pouf skirts.
Some terrific pastel cashmere sweater sets will go softly into the spring night over short or long white crepe skirts or a pair of evening pants.
As always, there’s a look or two you can imagine is aimed at the White House. This season, Adolfo does a stars-and-stripes print group of blouses and skirts that have sleeveless knit jackets worn over them.
