FIRST IMPRESSIONS : FUN IS ALOUD AT L.A. OLE

If you’ve been trying to find the noisiest new restaurant in Los Angeles, you can put away your decibel meter. You won’t even need one to know that L.A. Ole, in the Wiltern Building at 3760 Wilshire Blvd., (213) 383-6394, has got to be the hands-down winner. This cavernous relative of San Francisco’s Cadillac Bar seems to revel in the sound level; even when it’s almost empty, the place fairly echoes to the beat of people drinking at the bar, dropping trays, breaking glasses and otherwise adding to the sonic tapestry.

The noise is part of what makes this bare, bright room feel festive. The friendly service helps, too. The food is primarily the same regional Mexican fare that made the San Francisco establishment such a hit. What that translates to is grilled fish, chicken, fajitas and the like at rather reasonable prices. They occasionally serve goat--and they frequently serve Margaritas accompanied by chips. Bring your earplugs.