FRENCH TRIES

Tired of pizza and pasta and blackened meat loaf? In the mood for the flavor of France? These restaurants have little in common, for they span the range from the very old-fashioned to the trendy and modern. One thing they do share, however, is a French accent. Bon appetit . LES ANGES (14809 Pacific Coast Highway, Santa Monica, (213) 454-1331). The decor at this restaurant is contemporary beach moderne and the food on the menu, which changes daily, fits into the same category. Oysters are served warm on a bed of rock salt, sitting in an elegant bath of Champagne, caviar and julienned leeks. A good fish dish (and the fish here is generally wonderful) is sea bass in an anchovy, butter and garlic sauce, topped with scallions and crushed tomatoes. Desserts are dreamy, and there’s a nice wine list. Open for dinner Tue.-Sun., brunch Sat.-Sun. MC, V, DC. Dinner for two: $50-$70.

CAMILLE’S (13573 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks, (818) 995-1660). An ornate French restaurant with a reputation for the romantic. This comes primarily from the dusty rose walls, gilt-framed oils, mirrors and chandeliers. The food itself offers few surprises: The poached chicken with fresh vegetables is pure and gentle, the veal chop a white, tender long-boned beauty. The appetizers are a mixed bag, the desserts delightful. Open for lunch Tue.-Fri., dinner Tue.-Sat. Major credit cards. Beer and wine only. Dinner for two: $50-$80.

CASSIS (8450 West 3rd St., Los Angeles, (213) 653-1079). This plush but casual and contemporary restaurant serves the “Cuisine of the Sun”--that of Nice and Southern France. Flavors are strong and pure. Steadfast dishes are redone with verve-- soupe de poisson is a real delight, puree smooth and tweaked with a bit of saffron. Main dishes like breast of chicken with rosemary are, for the most part, right on target. And desserts like black currant sorbet almost deserve medals. Open for lunch Mon.-Fri., dinner Mon.-Sat. Valet parking. Full bar. Major credit cards. Dinner for two: $35-$65.

LA COURONNE (142 S. Lake St., Pasadena, (818) 793-3151). The ambiance at this restaurant is French elegant: there are high ceilings, chandeliers, a fireplace. In the bar a pianist tickles the ivories Tuesday through Friday. The kitchen is highly accomplished. The menu sports asparagus with smoked salmon, whitefish with julienne of beets and raspberry vinegar, and a slew of luscious French desserts, including souffles, ice cream and mousse. There is a very reasonable prix-fixe lunch special. Open Tue.-Fri. for lunch, Tue.-Sat. for dinner. Major credit cards. Valet and validated parking. Reservations essential. Dinner for two: $55-$95.

PASTEL (421 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills, (213) 274-9775). Come here on a Wednesday or Thursday night when the French country dinner is served, and you are magically transported to a small country village in France. Your big table is adorned with baskets of vegetables that look like they belong in some 18th-Century still life, good grilled bread and wooden bowls filled with ingredients for an impromptu salad. The main meal--a choice of beef or lamb or fish or chicken--is all simply and perfectly cooked, and there’s no slacking off on the dessert. Open seven days for lunch and dinner. MC, AE ,V. Full bar. Prix-fixe meal: $22.50.

LE PETIT MOULIN (714 Montana Ave., Santa Monica, (213) 395-6619). This 25-year-old French-American restaurant is a true Old Guard neighborhood place, a Smithsonian diorama come alive complete with copper pots, bric-a-brac and painted plates on the wall. You’ll recognize the victuals on the menu (stuffed mushrooms, lapin, creme caramel ) as well as entrees that frequently pop up such as mahi mahi and rack of lamb. Begin with a thick, sweet onion soup and end with standard caramel custard and chocolate mousse. Open for dinner Mon.-Sat. Reservations suggested. MC, V. Dinner for two: $30-$65.