ABALONEY

What, abalone overrated?

Maybe veal parmigiana, but not abalone. Reichl’s problem is she has An abalone is a big muscle. When the abalone is “caught” it contracts and gets tough. So you pound it like they do to the overrated veal. You then bread it and fry it, not too long, because that will make it tough again.

I’ve never had anyone turn down an abalone dinner; they only ask me when I’m going to ask them over again.

STUART JOHNSON

San Diego