New Owners, Old Standards : Conn Creek’s 1983 Chardonnay Equals Its Cabernets in Quality

Many times, the infusion of outside capital assists the qualitative goals of a winery. When, for instance, Suntory Limited of Japan acquired Chateau St. Jean in Kenwood, I knew that there would be no change in that justly renowned Sonoma wine; after all, Keizo Saji, president of Suntory International, represents such famous quality vineyards as Schloss Vollrads and Chateau Lafite-Rothschild and is dedicated to fine wine making.

Similarly, when U.S. Tobacco bought Conn Creek Winery in the Napa Valley, I was not concerned about any decrease in quality. Not only had they taken a $3-million loss in stride when a deep freeze almost destroyed the vineyards of their Chateau St. Michelle winery in Washington state, but after replanting they also expanded their acreage of fine varietals in the Yakima Valley, garnering gold medals all the way. In a recent tasting of 1974 Cabernet Sauvignon wines, the Chateau St. Michelle came in a solid first over more than 20 other ‘74s.

I suspect that it was partly the gold-medal record of the Conn Creek Cabernets that led U.S. Tobacco to buy the winery. Founder Bill Collins had started growing grapes in 1967 north of St. Helena, going full-time in 1977. In 1979, he and his wife, Kathy, moved the operation from an old stone winery built in 1886 near the Old Bale Mill to a new location on the Silverado Trail. The Cabernet they made then--darting in and out of the rain--with new wine maker Daryl Eklund was poured at the White House dinner for Prince Charles and Princess Diana in November 1985.

Eklund’s 1983 Napa Valley Chardonnay ($14) is, after two years of bottle aging, a beguiling, satin-smooth wine. Partial barrel fermentation and just enough time in toasted French oak have given it that intriguing taste finish. But the winery’s main fame still rests on the Cabernets, which continue to set record prices at Napa Valley wine auctions. Conn Creek’s 1982, currently in release, is 13% Merlot and was blended, like all their wines, from separate lots in that fine oaken cooperage under the tasting guidance of Andre Tchelistcheff.

When I recently tasted the unreleased 1984 Private Reserve from the Collins Vineyard, I noticed after the first whiff of that seductive bouquet that it already had a taste soft with elegance and breed. “This wine will hold for 15 years,” Eklund said. You won’t want to miss this Cabernet whenever Eklund and Collins release it. I was delighted to hear that Collins was staying on under the new ownership, assuring me--and wine enthusiasts all over--that there would be no drop in quality at Conn Creek.