Impressive Array of Stores Showcase Goods Made in China

Many travelers use Hong Kong as a gateway for touring China. But even without venturing to the mainland, visitors to the British Crown Colony, which will become part of the People’s Republic of China in 1997, find themselves surrounded by Chinese commerce.

Hong Kong has an impressive array of Chinese department stores, and is one of the world’s finest showcases for products manufactured inside the PRC.

Merchandise manufactured on the mainland is not necessarily sold here. In fact, much of what is to be discovered on shelves and in bins in Hong Kong’s Chinese department stores cannot be found on the mainland, or may be found only in very limited quantity and often at higher cost. The reason is simple:

The PRC manufactures many of these consumer goods largely for export, as a main source of hard Western currency with which to buy heavy machinery, technology and other equipment for building industries and augmenting economic growth.

The strategy seems to be working. Exported consumer goods are eagerly snapped up by buyers in Hong Kong and other marketplaces, and China’s industrial development and standard of living are reportedly on the rise.

Hong Kong’s Chinese department stores are popular with residents and tourists alike. In them, shoppers can buy a handsome variety of souvenirs, clothing, crafts, trinkets and a broad range of other consumer items. The Chinese department stores are busy, crowded places, alive with the hustle and bustle that is characteristic of Hong Kong.

There are several major Chinese department stores, some with branch outlets, scattered throughout the island and in Kowloon. Each store has similar kinds of merchandise, but particular items vary from store to store and from branch to branch. So does quality. In general, prices are remarkably inexpensive, but there is some variation in cost.

Some Favorite Items

For both quantity and quality, Chinese Arts and Crafts Ltd. is probably the grandest of Hong Kong’s Chinese department stores. It has several branches. The largest is a four-story emporium at Silvercord, 30 Canton Road, Tsimshatsui, Kowloon.

Also in Kowloon there are branches at Star House (near the Star Ferry Terminal), at the New World Centre and at 233-239 Nathan Road. The Central District branch (on Hong Kong Island) is at Shell House. Not all branches have the same merchandise, but in general they are treasuries of trinkets and objets d’art.

The unusual miniature trees, with gnarled wooden trunks and leaves carved of variously colored semiprecious stones ($35 and up), are favorite items. In addition, there are porcelain vases with floral motifs and country scenes ($15 and up), bowls and platters with similar patterns ($8 and up), figurines of delicate ladies or lionlike beasts, cloisonne vases ($38 and up), ornate urns carved out of semiprecious stone, and some delightful netsuke miniatures.

There are pretty stone “chops” (used as signature seals), with tiny dogs, birds and other animals sculpted on their tops. Scattered among newer, mass-produced items are some appealing antiques. Quality is backed by the Hong Kong Tourist Assn. (all approved shops prominently display the group’s easily recognizable red Chinese junk logo), so you can be assured that goods you buy here are genuine.

The store also has lovely jewelry, with an abundance of good quality jade and lapis bangles and beads (from around $200 and up), plus cloisonne necklaces and bangles. Bracelets cost as little as $1. There are also charms ($2 and up) on chains and cloisonne earrings.

Also in the jewelry department, look for the best brands of watches. You’ll find Rolex (from around $1,540 and up), Patek Philippe, Seiko and Citizen. Prices on these watches, as well as on cameras by Canon, Nikon, Kodak and other manufacturers, plus audio equipment by Aiwa, JVC, Sony and others, are often lower than they are in the country where these products are made.

Chinese Arts and Crafts Ltd. has practical merchandise, too. The household goods department, for example, includes pots and pans for just a few cents and woks for $7 and up. The grocery has teas and dried and canned foods, chopsticks made of ivory ($19 and up) and/or lacquered wood, teapots, spoons and glassware, along with beautiful embroidered linen table clothes ($30 and up), napkins ($8 and up per set) and coasters ($4 and up per set). For the bedroom there are cotton-blend bed linens ($9 and up for queen size), comforters and pillows.

Finely carved rosewood furniture, including dining and coffee tables, chairs, chests and other pieces--some decorated with lacquer or mother-of-pearl inlay--sell for half their U.S. cost, and can be shipped home. And there are attractive Chinese area rugs.

For people who sew, there is a fabulous selection of fabrics, ranging from fine silks to synthetics. Others will find an array of conservatively styled clothing made of silk, cotton, synthetics and leather. The Silvercord branch has a boutique featuring designer Eddie Lau’s finely tailored feminine fashions. Silk dresses are about $80 and up. You will also find a large and fascinating Chinese pharmacy, with stocks of herbs to treat all ills.

The China Products Co. Ltd., with branches on Yee Wo Street and at 488-500 Hennessy Road in Hong Kong, is a close second to Chinese Arts and Crafts Ltd., with slightly lower prices.

China Products shops stock a wide choice of trinkets and knickknacks. There are some lovely ivory bracelets and other pieces of jewelry, statuettes and objets d’art (before buying, check with U.S. Customs for restrictions on importing ivory), as well as embroidered silk blouses ($15 and up) and pillow covers, and linen tablecloths.

The traditional Chinese padded and/or embroidered silk jackets ($30 and up, less for children’s sizes) are appealing and wearable. Delicate silk flowers (less than $1) seem almost as perishable as real ones, but are lovely. There are amusing little dolls and other toys, and affordable musical instruments ranging from traditional flutes to electric guitars.

Wing On Co. Ltd. (26 and 211 Des Veoux Road and Hopewell Centre, 183 Queen’s Road East, Hong Kong, and Wing On Plaza and 361 Nathan Road, Kowloon), the Sincere Co. Ltd. (173 Des Veoux Road, Hong Kong, and 83 Argyle St., Kowloon), Yue Hwa (54-64 and 301-9 Nathan Road, and 73-81 Argyle St., Kowloon) and Shui Hing Co. Ltd. (23-25 Nathan Road, Kowloon) have a stronger emphasis on functional merchandise, much of it fairly mundane in styling but exceptionally reasonable in price.

You’ll find an abundant supply of such staples as bedding and towels ($3 and up for top-quality towels), stationery supplies, kitchen equipment (an entire set of pans costs about $10), silverware, china and glassware, and some non-name-brand small appliances, including irons, mixers, fans and other things.

Men’s and women’s ready-to-wear is abundant. The same may be said for shoes, but some plastic sandals and slippers are colorful, fun and comfortable for $3. Hosiery (about $2 per pair) is a good buy, as is fabric or leather luggage ($15 to $121 for a garment bag and overnighter set).

Prices in this article reflect currency exchange rates at the time of writing.