A Treasured Pair of Old Recipes

For my birthday last year, a fan in Michigan--who is also a good friend after a near decade of steady correspondence--sent me an old cookbook that had been in her family for years. The cookbook was written by Elizabeth O. Hiller and titled: “Fifty-Two Sunday Dinners,” this wonderful volume was published in 1913 and came with the following inscription on its yellowed flyleaf:

“For Bert, Because I know you will love this old treasure as much as I did.” Clara Less, October 1986.”

Since its arrival, I have dipped into the recipes with a great deal of pleasure and a tinge of trepidation. Because, aside from its status as a culinary document, this book has a way of putting a contemporary cookbook author like myself in his proper perspective.

In 1913, for instance, it was not unusual for a commercial food manufacturer to underwrite the publication of a cookbook. Point of fact, it is still not an outmoded practice though it certainly should be in my opinion. Hiller’s sponsor was a now-forgotten kitchen ingredient named Cottolene, a shortening which the author suggests as a substitute for butter.

Setting Hiller’s commercial ties aside, Cottolene has long joined the ranks of other forgotten American commodities. Her book of “company dinners” is a true delight, crammed despite its slim size with all manner of wonderful recipes that I have managed to get on the table from Monday to Saturday in the bargain.

Luckily, my copy came with many dog-eared pages starred and checked, that obviously meant they had passed the test of time at the Less family table.

Two excellent notions for a summer Sunday dinner or buffet follow. Both are freely adapted from recipes in Hiller’s book.

COLD JELLIED MEAT LOAF WITH

WHIPPED CREAM

HORSERADISH DRESSING

1 1/2 pounds veal shoulder with bones

1 1/2 pounds lamb shoulder with bones

1 bay leaf

1 teaspoon salt

5 peppercorns

2 onions, sliced

1/2 teaspoon grated lemon peel

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1/2 teaspoon minced fresh ginger root

1/2 teaspoon ground allspice

1 envelope unflavored gelatin

1/2 cup chicken broth

Watercress leaves

Whipped Cream Horseradish Dressing

Place meat, bay leaf, salt, peppercorns and 1 sliced onion in large pot with enough water to cover. Heat to boiling, then reduce heat. Simmer, covered, until meat is tender, 1 1/2 to 2 hours.

Remove meat and discard bones. Strain cooking liquid. Discard seasonings. Heat liquid to boiling and cook over high heat until reduced to about 1 quart.

Grind meat with remaining onion. Stir in lemon peel, pepper, ginger root and allspice. Add meat to cooking liquid. Cook over low heat 10 minutes. Remove from heat.

Soften gelatin in chicken broth in top of double boiler. Place over hot water. Stir until dissolved. Stir into meat mixture. Mix thoroughly. Pour meat mixture into greased 9x5-inch loaf pan and cool. Chill in refrigerator overnight. Unmold and garnish with watercress. Pass Whipped Cream Horseradish Dressing on side. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Whipped Cream

Horseradish Dressing

1/4 cup grated horseradish

1/4 teaspoon onion juice

1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 1/2 tablespoons white wine vinegar

1/2 cup whipping cream

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Combine horseradish, onion juice, cayenne pepper and wine vinegar in medium bowl. Mix thoroughly.

Whip cream until soft peaks form. Fold cream into horseradish mixture. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Chill before serving. Makes about 1 cup.