Preserved Memories of Sugar Shack

Took my candy man down to 8751 W. Pico Blvd. in Los Angeles, (213) 271-7887, to whisper sweet nothings in his ear. But the Sugar Shack was so loud that he couldn’t hear a word I was saying. So he snapped his fingers to the beat and said he thought he’d have a mai tai. Before long he had quite a collection of cute swizzle sticks--a blue dolphin, a green palm tree, a yellow umbrella--and I was thinking it was time to stop looking at the waitresses in their loud shirts and short shorts and think about getting my honey some food.

We sat at one of the tables in the garishly painted room and ordered bambas-- deep fried croquettes of shrimp and mashed potatoes. They weren’t the best things I’ve ever eaten. Then we had red chicken with green rice, which was pretty good, and spicy cabbage which was better. Shrimp curry came in a sauce as bright as the room, and tasted cloyingly of coconut. Next time we’ll try the jerk chicken and the stuffed blue crabs. But just then we finished up with banana fritters (served with what may be the world’s worst ice cream), and thought about having another drink.

An evening at Sugar Shack can really get you in a jam.