DUTCH TREAT : The “stove”...

The biggest surprise was how neat and uncomplicated this ancient method of cooking is. No, come to think of it, that wasn’t the biggest surprise. The biggest surprise was the upscale food that came from these old-fashioned cooking utensils. When was the last time you sampled a lemon meringue pie or a baked Alaska cooked in a cast-iron pot set on a layer of hot coals?

It’s likely that even the most ardent camper would not have been prepared for the downright elegant food that a group of Dutch oven experts produced from their heavy iron pots during the recent annual Great American Dutch Oven Cookoff in Logan, Utah.

Aficionados of Dutch oven cooking readily accept that there are few foods that can’t be prepared successfully in one of these stalwart cooking vessels. Certainly the group competing in this year’s cook-off was as passionate about their abilities to cook anything in a camp oven as “chiliheads” are about their prowess in preparing a bowl of red. (Dutch oven cooks are, however, considerably less raucous than most chili cooks during a cook-off.)

I first heard about the Dutch oven cook-off from Dian Thomas, an outdoor cooking expert from Salt Lake City, who appears on NBC’s “Today” show periodically and has written a number of books on outdoor cooking, most notably “Roughing it Easy” (Warner: 1976).

“You ought to come see what some of these people can do with a Dutch oven,” she said, bemoaning the fact that events like this one at Utah State University’s campus are often overlooked by outsiders. “Nobody ever comes to Utah,” she said.

Totally intrigued by, and not a little skeptical of, the tales of what people cooked in their big black pots, I decided to prove her wrong about Utah and head for Logan to see firsthand what the cook-off was all about. It quickly became apparent that what she said about these fascinating cooks was an understatement.

This particular Dutch oven contest, now 3 years old, is one of the events at the university’s eight-day Festival of the American West. The festival celebrates the history, crafts, art, food and just about everything else that has to do with the settlement of the West. The cook-off, a relative newcomer to the festival, has established itself as a very popular activity for competitors and onlookers. Just as chili cook-offs have expanded in popularity beyond the confines of the Southwest, a grass-roots interest in Dutch oven cookery is beginning to spread to a broader audience beyond the river rafters and mountain campers who have kept it alive for so long.

For four nights running in late August, 15 teams competed in various events. The first night’s group prepared vegetables in big iron pots. The second night they cooked meats, poultry and fish. On the third night contestants prepared desserts, and on the final night, the competition covered the preparation of three dishes--a main dish, a side dish, such as vegetables or potatoes, and a sourdough or yeast bread.

This latter event was a particular challenge as all three of the evening’s entries had to be cooked in a Dutch oven and ready for presentation to the judges at the same time. It was also a challenge for the judges: Dian Thomas; Dr. Glen Humphreys, director of the Wheeler Historical Farm in Salt Lake City; Dar Larsen, owner of the Ogden/Logan Pepsi Cola Co., which was one of the co-sponsors of the cook-off; and myself. Sampling and evaluating 45 different entries in a period of two hours requires a bit of stamina.

The cook-off was well organized, probably because the volunteer committee--general chairman Dick Michaud, brothers Mike and Wallace Kohler and their wives, Juanita and Pat, and festival coordinator Ron Jones--are all skilled and devoted “Dutchers.” The four Kohlers teach summer classes in Dutch oven cookery sponsored by the university and even do a certain amount of Dutch oven catering in the Logan area. It’s an avocation for all that obviously fills a great deal of their free time. It’s also obvious to anyone attending the cook-off that every one of these volunteers relishes the fun surrounding the event.

Co-sponsors of the cook-off, besides Larsen, were Bob Kellerman, president of the Lodge Manufacturing Co., and Ralph Roylance of Logan’s Smithfield Implement Co., both of whom provided Dutch ovens for some winners. The Kohlers’ Twin-K Enterprises provided Dutch oven tools for some of the other winners. On championship night, the grand prize was an all-expense paid trip for two to Las Vegas from the local Ask Mr. Foster Travel agency.

Most of the competing cooks had learned how to handle Dutch ovens during their scouting days. But as they grew older and more sophisticated, they honed their culinary talents on fishing and camping trips. True devotees of this form of outdoor cookery keep their touch by cooking in their backyards just as much as Southern Californians barbecue.

Seeing and tasting the foods the various teams turned out was quite an experience. No mere stews or simple pots of beans here. Instead we watched Peggy Roskelley and Rosemary Parkinson of Smithfield, Utah, turn out a delicious salmon en croute which, along with a raisin bread and a colorful mixed-vegetable dish, won them second place on championship night.

We were fascinated by the creamy festival fudge that Lynn and Tonia Hopkins of Richmond, Utah, whipped to a velvety finish in their Dutch oven. It didn’t win the dessert category it was entered in, but the young couple did take a first on the night they competed in the meat category with a rich and wonderful Barbecued Chicken and Ribs combination. This dish was so good that The Times’ Test Kitchen tasters already have added it to our list of recipes under consideration for the 12 Best list of 1987.

Another of the cook-off recipes, one for Fluffy Orange Rolls, prepared by Kathy Hogan of Logan and Marcia Moss of Elko, Nev., also has earned a spot on the 12 Best consideration list. Hogan and Moss won the grand prize on championship night for the rolls, Cornish Game Hens in Cranberry Sauce and a side dish of Apple-Sweet Potato Puffs.

Vegetable Dishes

Then there was the Whole-Wheat Vegetarian Pie that took first place in the vegetable dish competition. It was prepared by the only Californians competing, Dean Hatch and his son, Jay, of Ventura. Hatch, who, with his wife, often judges cakes at the Ventura County Fair, said he “just got intrigued” with Dutch oven cookery, heard about the cook-off and decided to see if he could enter. Since there is always a waiting list of eager cooks, according to Michaud, Hatch was lucky.

Than and Joan Larsen of Salt Lake City went all out on championship night when they cooked a gorgeous 17-pound standing rib roast in a 22-inch (diameter) Dutch oven. As tradition calls for the cooked foods to be passed out to hungry onlookers after the judging, the Larsens made a lot of festival visitors happy that night.

But these were just a few of the interesting things that were hidden under the cast-iron lids in the rows of Dutch ovens stewing away over the hot coals. There was the simple ham loaf garnished with pineapple that Dick and Pam Stucki of Salt Lake City prepared. It was delicious, even though Stucki admitted to The Times’ photographer Larry Bessel that he never tries his entries in a Dutch oven before cooking them in the contest. And there was the towering baked Alaska that Hogan and Moss presented to the judges on dessert night. Beautifully browned meringue peaks covered a filling of firm ice cream and cake that would have had any home cook beaming with success.

Even the foods one might expect to see in a Dutch oven were special. Val and Marie Cowley of Logan took third place on championship night with an excellent “no alarm” chili that was accompanied by a from-scratch French bread with a cheesy filling and a raisin-walnut-apple pie.

Whether they won or not, all of the contestants knew their way around a Dutch oven. And if the “Dutchers” behind the cook-off have anything to do with it, more people will develop an interest in this type of cooking. So don’t be surprised if a friend invites you to dinner soon and proudly announces that he or she whipped up the whole menu in that funny-looking big black pot with legs sitting on the back patio. If they know what they’re doing, you’re in luck. First Place Winner Championship Category Kathy Hogan and Marcia Moss CORNISH GAME HENS WITH

CRANBERRY SAUCE

1 (16-ounce) can whole cranberry sauce

3 tablespoons margarine

1 (6-ounce) can frozen orange juice concentrate, thawed

1/4 cup light corn syrup

1/4 cup chopped onion

1 cup chopped celery

1 (14-ounce) package herbed cubed stuffing

1 small apple, chopped

1 egg, beaten

Salt, pepper

6 canning lid rings

3 Cornish game hens

Combine half of cranberry sauce, 1 tablespoon margarine, 1/3 cup orange juice concentrate and corn syrup in small stainless-steel bowl. Place 14-inch Dutch oven on 10 evenly distributed hot coals. Place bowl in oven and, stirring occasionally, bring mixture to boil. Remove from oven, cover with foil and set aside.

Line hot oven with enough foil to extend at least 5 inches up sides. Melt remaining 2 tablespoons margarine in foil-lined oven, add onions and celery and saute until tender. Stir in cubed stuffing, apple and egg, being careful not to pierce foil. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in remaining orange juice concentrate. Fold mixture up in foil oven lining and set aside. Wipe oven out lightly with oiled rag.

Start 40 coals for Cornish hens 45 minutes before cooking time. Rinse hens and pat dry. Sprinkle cavities with salt and fill loosely with some of stuffing. Tie legs and tail together with heavy string. Place 2 canning lid rings per bird in bottom of oven and arrange stuffed birds on them. Cover birds loosely with foil. Place lid on oven. Place oven on 15 evenly distributed hot coals. Arrange 25 coals on lid in even pattern. Cook about 45 minutes, giving oven 1/4 turn every 15 minutes. Check birds at same time and turn lid in opposite direction 1/4 turn. After 45 minutes baste hens with reserved sauce 3 or 4 times. About 20 minutes before birds are done, spoon remaining stuffing around them to heat through. Total cooking time will be about 1 hour 15 minutes. Garnish with parsley and orange cups filled with remaining cranberry sauce, if desired. Makes 3 to 6 servings.

Note: In conventional oven, game hens can be cooked in 14x10-inch roasting pan at 375 degrees 1 hour 15 minutes to 1 hour 25 minutes. Cover for first 30 minutes of cooking time. Then baste and add stuffing according to previous directions. If birds begin to brown too much, cover loosely with foil.

APPLE-SWEET POTATO PUFF

2/3 (16-ounce) can yams in orange-pineapple sauce

1/2 cup chunky applesauce

1 egg, separated

1 tablespoon maple syrup

1 tablespoon butter or margarine, melted

1/4 teaspoon grated lemon peel

Dash ground nutmeg

Dash ground coriander

6 firm Granny Smith or Gala apples

Toasted slivered almonds

6 canning lid rings

Start 30 coals 30 to 45 minutes before cooking time. Mash sweet potatoes and add applesauce, egg yolk, syrup, butter, lemon peel, nutmeg and coriander. Combine thoroughly. Beat egg white until stiff and fold into sweet potato mixture.

Core apples, being careful not to puncture bottoms. Hollow them out, leaving 1/2-inch thick shell. Spoon yam mixture into centers, leaving 1/2-inch space at top. Sprinkle with almonds. Arrange canning lid rings evenly in bottom of 12-inch Dutch oven. Set each apple in ring. Place oven on 10 evenly distributed hot coals. Place lid on oven and arrange 20 hot coals evenly over top. Bake 30 to 35 minutes, turning oven 1/4 turn every 15 minutes. Turn top 1/4 turn in opposite direction at same time. Makes 6 servings.

Note: To cook in conventional oven, bake at 350 degrees about 40 minutes in 2 quart rectangular baking dish. Cover loosely with foil during first 20 minutes of baking time.

FLUFFY ORANGE ROLLS

1 package dry yeast

1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon sugar

1/2 cup warm water

2 eggs

1/2 cup evaporated milk

1/4 cup butter, melted

1/4 teaspoon salt

3 1/2 to 4 1/2 cups flour

Grated peel of 1 orange

1/4 cup butter, softened

1 cup powdered sugar

3 tablespoons orange juice

Combine yeast with 1 tablespoon sugar and warm water. Set aside 15 minutes until foamy. Beat together eggs, milk, melted butter, 1/4 cup sugar and salt. Stir in yeast mixture. Stir in flour until stickiness is gone and soft dough forms. Knead lightly 5 minutes. Place in greased bowl, turn to grease top, cover bowl with cloth and place in warm spot to rise until doubled in bulk, about 1 hour.

Reserve 1/4 teaspoon grated peel for glaze. To make filling, combine rest of peel with softened butter and 1/4 cup sugar in small bowl. Blend well. Set aside.

Combine powdered sugar, orange juice and reserved 1/4 teaspoon grated peel. Blend well and set aside.

When dough has doubled, punch down and let rest 10 minutes. Start 33 coals. Roll dough out on floured board to 13x9-inch rectangle. Spread with filling, covering completely except for 1/2 inch along one long side. Beginning at opposite long side, roll dough jellyroll fashion, sealing well along unfilled edge. With very sharp floured knife, cut roll into 12 to 15 pieces. Place rolls cut sides up and touching in 12-inch Dutch oven. (Place ends in center to avoid burning.)

Let rise in warm spot until coals are hot enough, about 20 to 30 minutes. When coals are hot, place oven on 8 evenly distributed coals and arrange 25 coals over lid of oven. Turn oven 1/4 turn after 5 minutes and turn lid in opposite direction 1/4 turn. After 8 minutes, remove bottom coals. Continue to turn lid 1/4 turn every 5 minutes. After about 10 to 12 minutes, check rolls to see they are browning evenly. If not, adjust position of top coals. Total cooking time should be 15 to 20 minutes. Rolls will pull away from sides of pan and be golden brown when they are done.

Spread with glaze while still warm. Makes 12 to 15 rolls.

Note: To bake rolls in conventional oven, arrange rolls in 13x9-inch glass baking dish, allow to rise 20 to 30 minutes, then bake at 375 degrees 20 to 25 minutes.

First Place Winner Meat Category Lynn and Tonia Hopkins

BARBECUED CHICKEN AND RIBS

1 to 2 pounds beef short ribs

1 to 2 pounds country-style pork ribs

2 whole chickens, skinned and cut up

Salt, pepper

2 tablespoons oil

2 onions, chopped

2 cups water

1 cup vinegar

4 cups catsup

1 cup brown sugar, packed

Trim any excess fat from beef and pork ribs. Season ribs and chicken to taste with salt and pepper. Heat oil in 12-inch Dutch oven placed on 9 to 10 evenly distributed hot coals. Add onions and saute until transparent but not browned. Stir in water, vinegar, catsup and brown sugar. Cook, stirring often, until mixture thickens, about 1 hour.

Add ribs to sauce, stirring to coat well. Continue cooking, stirring often and replacing coals as needed about 1 hour.

Add chicken pieces, stir to coat well and continue cooking until ribs and chicken are very tender, about 1 hour longer. Oven may be covered or not. Sauce will be thicker if oven is not covered. Makes about 10 servings.

Note: For conventional range cooking, use 8-quart pot and cook on range top according to previous directions.

First Place Winner Vegetable Category Dean and Jay Hatch WHOLE-WHEAT VEGETARIAN PIE

1 cup whole-wheat flour

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt

2/3 cup shortening

7 to 8 tablespoons Egg Vinegar Water

Filling

1 cup shredded Cheddar cheese

1 beaten egg

Stir together whole-wheat and all-purpose flours and salt. Cut in shortening until mixture forms pieces about size of small peas. Sprinkle Egg Vinegar Water 1 tablespoon at time over flour mixture, tossing and stirring with fork to form ball of dough. Add only as much Egg Vinegar Water as needed.

Divide pastry and roll 1/2 to 1/8-inch thick circle large enough for 9-inch pie. Fit into bottom of 9-inch metal pie pan. Spoon Filling into prepared crust. Sprinkle with cheese. Roll out remaining pastry and use to top pie. Crimp edges to seal and cut vents in top crust. Brush with beaten egg mixed with 1 tablespoon water. Place 2-inch wide and 22-inch-long folded strip of foil across bottom and up sides of 12-inch Dutch oven. Cover edges of pie crust with narrow strip of foil and place pie pan in bottom of oven. Place oven on 12 to 14 evenly distributed hot coals. Place lid on oven and top with 10 to 12 evenly distributed hot coals. Cook about 20 minutes, turning oven about every 5 minutes 1/4 turn in one direction and turning lid about 1/4 turn in opposite direction at same time.

After 20 minutes, remove foil around edges of crust. Continue cooking 20 to 25 minutes, turning often. Pie is done when top crust is browned and crisp. Let stand 10 to 15 minutes before serving. Makes about 6 servings.

Egg Vinegar Water

1 egg

1 tablespoon vinegar

Cold water

Beat egg in 1 1/2 cup measure until foamy. Add 1 tablespoon vinegar and enough cold water to measure 1 1/2 cups. Blend mixture well. Mixture will keep if refrigerated and covered about 1 week.

Filling

1 cup chopped zucchini

1 cup chopped celery

1/2 cup shredded carrot

1/2 cup sliced fresh mushrooms

1/2 cup chopped green pepper

1 clove garlic, minced

2 tablespoons oil

1 (15-ounce) can tomato sauce

1/2 cup cooked cut green beans

1/2 cup cooked whole kernel corn

1 tablespoon brown sugar

1 teaspoon dried oregano, crushed

1 teaspoon chili powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon dried basil, crushed

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

In 12-inch Dutch oven placed over 10 to 12 evenly distributed hot coals, saute zucchini, celery, carrot, mushrooms, green pepper and garlic in hot oil until tender. Reduce number of coals to 6 and add tomato sauce, green beans, corn, brown sugar, oregano, chili powder, salt, basil, pepper and allspice to mixture in oven. Simmer, stirring often, 5 minutes. Makes enough filling for 1 (9-inch) pie.

Note: To bake in conventional oven, prepare pie according to directions and bake at 350 degrees 45 minutes, or until crust is browned and crisp.

The name of the following recipe came about as follows according to the Larsens, who finally perfected it; Than Larsen said: “Four generations of the Larsen family enjoyed the lemon pie prepared by Grandma Larsen for birthdays and special events. Her pie was known for the tart lemon flavor left in the mouth after one finished a piece of it. She never measured the ingredients nor did she write them down. Consequently, the recipe was lost when Grandma passed on. While trying to recreate this family favorite, pies were given to various family members for evaluation. The comment always came back, as the name indicates, “It needs more lemon.”

First Place Winner Dessert Category

Than and Joan Larsen

NEEDS MORE LEMON PIE

1 cup sugar

5 tablespoons arrowroot

6 eggs, separated

Juice and grated peel of 2 large or 3 small lemons

1 1/4 cups boiling water

Dash salt

6 tablespoons sugar

1 baked 9-inch pie shell

Mix sugar and arrowroot in bottom of 12-inch Dutch oven. Stir in egg yolks, lemon juice and peel. Add boiling water, small amount at time, blending well after each addition. Place oven on 9 evenly distributed coals and cook mixture, stirring frequently until mixture is clear and thickened. Pour into 1 quart mixing bowl, cover with piece of wax paper and set aside to cool.

Beat egg whites with salt until whites begin to thicken. Gradually add sugar, 1 tablespoon at time, until peaks form. Fold 1/4 of egg white mixture into cooled lemon mixture and pour into prepared pie shell.

Spoon rest of meringue over filling, spreading to edges to seal well. (Meringue will brown more evenly in Dutch oven if not peaked in center.) Fold heavy duty foil into 2-inch wide and 22-inch long strip and press it into bottom and up sides of Dutch oven. Place pie on strip in oven, put lid on top. Distribute 15 hot coals evenly over oven lid and bake 12 to 15 minutes, or until meringue is lightly browned. Turn lid frequently and check for uneven browning after about 10 minutes. Control browning by adding or removing coals. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Note: To brown meringue in conventional oven, bake at 325 degrees about 15 minutes.

Food styling by MINNIE BERNARDINO and DONNA DEANE / Los Angeles Times