Tutto Bene: Nice and Neighborly

Forget that this was ever the Hollywood Diner. For although it changed its name just yesterday, is on the same spot at 945 N. Fairfax Ave. in West Hollywood ((213) 655-7051) and still serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, Tutto Bene is a different kettle of fish.

They call it an “Italian Diner.” What that seems to mean is that the open kitchen is now camouflaged behind lots of potted plants, the waiters are both hip and sincere and seem to make a lot of jokes--and the menu is a bizarre mix of carpaccio and hamburgers, pasta and turkey burgers, apple pie and tiramisu. And that they try harder.

Remember how warm and wonderful Pane Caldo was before it became such a big hit? The new Tutto Bene is a lot like that. The food is reasonable and reasonably good and there always seems to be something you feel like eating, be it a salade nicoise or a plate of spaghetti Bolognese. There’s a nice little wine list. The waiters are pleasant to everybody, from the producer in the corner to the little old ladies who live down the street. I expect success will change all this, but right now this is the perfect neighborhood restaurant.