Cool California Christmas : Currier & Ives Setting Showcased in the Land of Sun, Surf and Sand

Ah, Christmas: Distant sleigh bells jingling against a hushed backdrop of snow that glistens white on stately evergreens. It settles in great downy mantles upon rooftops, while chimneys issue ribbons of blue wood smoke. Indoors, crackling tongues of fire lick a fragrant yule log in the fireplace, and there’s hot spiced cider to ward off the winter chill.

What, in Southern California, land of sun and surf?

The snow may be iffy this weekend, with fair weather forecast for the mountains, but with 13 days left before Christmas, a white Christmas may still be within two hours’ drive from downtown Los Angeles. The “Back East” or “Up North” ambiance of Christmas doesn’t have to be just a memory for Southlanders.

But snow or no snow, the gingerbread feeling of Christmas, the tall evergreens, the sleigh bells, carolers and colored lights are within easy reach. And all in the brisk mountain air that calls for warm coats, knit caps and mittens.

Seasonal Festivities

The mountain resort areas of Lake Arrowhead and Big Bear both celebrate Christmas with a host of seasonal festivities. And being at an altitude of about 6,000 feet (higher on the slopes), these two San Bernardino Mountain communities offer the kind of alpine weather conditions and atmosphere that make them seem a bit Christmasy year-round. And both locations have the added attraction of blue mountain lakes. Even at this time of the year, you can take a paddlewheeler ride on the Arrowhead Queen from the marina at Lake Arrowhead Village.

Ski enthusiasts have long known of the delights of the mountain resorts. But you don’t have to be a skier to enjoy the atmosphere and small-town hospitality of these areas at Christmastime.

Southland residents who hail from up north, the Midwest or the East Coast, who miss the seasonal cold-weather feeling of the holidays, will find Lake Arrowhead and Big Bear particularly attractive. Up there, the leaves still drop with a blaze of autumnal glory, giving way to snow at the higher elevations.

So. When was the last time you saw Santa Claus riding through town in a horse-drawn carriage or sleigh, or heard carolers singing on street corners, or witnessed an alpine celebration of lights? This event (for centuries a tradition in various parts of Europe) has been adopted by both the Arrowhead community village of Blue Jay and by the little town of Crestline overlooking beautiful Lake Gregory, just 20 minutes up California 18 from the city of San Bernardino.

In both places, the crisp evening is illuminated by thousands of twinkling points of color from candles and Christmas lights festooning residences and businesses alike.

Less than 30 miles away from each other on California 18, you can, weather permitting, attend the Christmas festivities at Big Bear and Arrowhead in a day.

At this time of the year, of course, fog or snow can be a factor. However, just because Big Bear at its higher elevation may be snowbound, that does not necessarily mean that Arrowhead is--something local newscasts often fail to mention. A couple thousand feet in altitude makes all the difference.

If the mountains appear cloud-covered before you start the drive up, it’s suggested that you check for snow and fog conditions before making the trip. For reports, call (714) 337-SNOW or 337-7669 for an up-to-date forecast. Another helpful number is (714) 338-3700.

Day trips to the mountain resorts are the most feasible during the holiday season. By early November, most of the lodgings at Lake Arrowhead and Big Bear are booked solid--which is not to say that cancellations and no-shows won’t open up a few reservations.

But a lot can be seen and done in a day, and the festivities in both communities run this weekend and next. Both areas have carolers and Santa Claus and rides in the best Olde English and German traditions.

Though first settled by Mormons in the 1840s--loggers mostly, seeking to provide timber to the ballooning communities in the desert basin below--the mountains also attracted many German and Swiss immigrants who brought with them the alpine architecture of their homeland, partly because it was the most suitable for dealing with regularly heavy snowfall.

Thus the collections of villages comprising Arrowhead and Big Bear have an Old World flavor that is a distinct and welcome change from the sprawling hybrid metropolises of Los Angeles, San Diego and San Bernardino in the warm-weather basin below.

Big Bear, though smaller than the Lake Arrowhead area, has its own special charm and character--a real rural, small-town atmosphere persists, in spite of the growing number of tourists it attracts every year.

Already under way at Big Bear Village, continuing through Dec. 20, is an event organized jointly by the Big Bear Chamber of Commerce and the Big Bear Village Council. Santa will hear children’s Christmas wishes at the corner of Big Bear Boulevard and Bartlett Road from 1 to 4 p.m. each Saturday and Sunday through Dec. 20.

In the same area and during the same hours, there is a live Nativity scene in the heart of the village and on both weekends before Christmas carolers will be strolling about singing--and you’re welcome to join in.

On California 18 (Big Bear Boulevard)--between Big Bear Village and Big Bear City, not far from the Convention Center, is the brand-new Big Bear Inn. There will be a special mini-”Nutcracker” presentation at the Swiss chalet-style Inn on Christmas Day. This event begins at 5 p.m. For details and reservations, call (714) 866-3471.

Besides these special daytime festivities at Big Bear, there are dozens of small shops to visit, many of which accent the region’s German heritage by vending beautiful beer steins, delftware and other Old World goodies. You won’t have to look too far to find some unusual gifts.

Sampling the Nightlife

And, for those of you who can stay through the evening there are a number of clubs, restaurants and pubs, which will be celebrating the season with all kinds of special dinners and musical programs.

In particular, check out Joe and Willie Istrans’ Village Pub on Big Bear Boulevard. They showcase live band music every Friday and Saturday night, and will be offering a rock ‘n’ roll celebration with original tunes and old favorites for an up-beat yuletide.

If you come early in the day, or stay overnight, be sure to stop in at the Grizzly Cafe for possibly the best breakfast around, including a homemade sausage so good you’ll want to take some home with you--and they’re more than happy to oblige.

A comprehensive list of these places and many others may be found in the Big Bear Visitors’ Guide brochure, or in the local paper, The Big Bear News, both of which are available at most motels, inns and the Big Bear Chamber of Commerce. For more information call (714) 866-4607.

The Lake Arrowhead Communities, recently becoming famous for its involvement in the Olympic ice-skating programs, is also celebrating Christmas with many festive events open to the public.

The annual Dickens Christmas Celebration, organized privately by Lake Arrowhead resident Dave DeLille, began Nov. 28, and will continue Saturdays and Sundays through Dec. 20. Held in and around Lake Arrowhead Village, which overlooks the lake just off Highway 189, the Dickens Christmas consists of old-fashioned decorations, costumed musicians and horse-drawn carriage rides.

Arrowhead Village has shops featuring gifts and fine and casual apparel (a nifty T-shirt shop), all sorts of places to dine, including the Lake Arrowhead Hilton Lodge, the Chanticler--both of which provide musical entertainment in the evenings--and Heidi’s German restaurant and pastry shop will be serving a family-style buffet from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. on Christmas day.

And don’t forget the Saddleback Inn at the entrance to the village.

In the big lobby of the Hilton Lodge is displayed a wonderful Gingerbread Village--a real Hansel and Gretel delight for children of all ages.

Lake Arrowhead is a collection of homey mountain towns scattered around the wooded hills about the lakes, all within a reasonably short drive of each other. They all have something special to offer the Christmas traveler. You can easily visit the communities of Blue Jay, Agua Fria, Cedar Glen, Skyforest and Rim Forest all in a day. The drive is lovely and, in places, such as the Rim of the World Highway (California 18), the view down over the valley is breathtaking.

At Blue Jay, just west of Lake Arrowhead Village on Highway 189, where the festival of lights is in full swing, you might want to drop by the Ice Castle to see if you can still glide around on the ice. It’s here that Olympic champion and international ice-skating star Robin Cousins trains aspiring athletes from the world over.

At 7 p.m. Friday and next Saturday and 6 p.m. Dec. 20, the sixth annual Christmas show, “Olympic Spirit” will be presented at the Ice Castle. General admission is $6; rinkside booths $40. For information, telephone (714) 336-2111.

While in Blue Jay Village, treat yourself to dining in rustic Tudor splendor at the Royal Oak. Or if you’re looking for less elegant fare for the family, try the Villager coffee shop nearby.

Then cross the road to the mall and shop for unusual Christmas gifts by rural craftsmen made especially for the Alpine Jewelers and High Country Artisans. There are all sorts of one-of-a-kind gifts here that you won’t find anywhere else.

On Arrowhead Villas Road, between Kuffel Canyon and Highway 18, is the historic Tudor House, where proprietor John Traband promises a great tree to sweep the vaulted rafters of the 20-foot-high ceiling, and a mouthwatering special dinner on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day from 5-9 p.m. and 2 to 7 p.m., respectively, replete with turkey, ham and lots of other goodies. Oh, and if you want something to warm the soul, don’t miss the special winter drink of the house, a hot cider concoction called a Hot Apple Pie. While you’re in this neighborhood, you might also want to check out the food and tiny shops at Petticoat Junction, on the corner of Kuffel Canyon Road and California 18.

Out in Cedar Glen, east of Lake Arrowhead Village off Highway 173, the Crystal Springs and Cedar Glen Inns come highly recommended as great places to have lunch or dinner.

Of course there are places especially for kids at Lake Arrowhead.

First among these has to be Santa’s Village in the community of Skyforest. This entertainment village is open year-round, but, naturally enough, it makes a particular impact at Christmastime. Here you will find a petting zoo, children’s rides and-- ca va sans dire-- Santa himself. (Hey kids! Psst! This is where he lives when he’s not at the North Pole.)

If a visit to Santa’s Village left you hungry, just tool back down the 18 to Rim Forest and stop in at the Cottage Inn for some great homemade food. There may be a bit of a line, but it’s worth the wait.

There is clearly quite a bit to do on a easy trip to the mountain resorts--something for everyone in the family, old or young. So what are you waiting for? Make this Christmas in Southern California one to remember. Oh, and keep your fingers crossed; this one may yet be white.