Ocean Views, Canyon Ecology on the Santa Monicas’ Spine

For many years hikers have promoted the idea of a 55-mile Backbone Trail following the crest of the Santa Monica Mountains from Will Rogers State Historic Park to Point Mugu State Park. When completed, the trail would link the three large state parks of Topanga, Malibu Creek and Point Mugu, as well as land owned by the National Park Service, and enable Southland residents to spend days and weekends hiking, backpacking and horseback riding along the spine of the Santa Monica Mountains.

The Backbone Trail route through Malibu Creek State Park has been finished for some time and has proved very popular. A primary and alternate route lead through the state park. The high “primary” route follows a dramatic ridge top toward Castro Crest, while the “alternate” route meanders along Malibu Creek through the heart of the state park.

This day hike connects the two branches of the Backbone Trail and provides a grand tour of Malibu Creek State Park. Fine ocean and island views are offered along the first half of the hike and a chance to explore geologically and ecologically unique Malibu Creek Canyon on the second half. Directions to trailhead: From Pacific Coast Highway up the coast from Santa Monica, turn inland on Malibu Canyon Road and proceed five miles to Tapia County Park, a mile south of Malibu Creek State Park.

From the parking lot, return to Malibu Canyon Road and walk south. Using caution, cross the road and walk across the bridge spanning Malibu Creek. Recross the road and walk a few hundred feet to a “35 m.p.h.--Curve” sign, where the trail begins. Two other signs that provide no useful information to the hiker--”Tractors only” and a state park boundary--are implanted at this ugly trailhead. (Don’t judge a book by its cover or a trail by its trailhead; a few hundred yards into this hike, the Backbone Trail becomes much more inspiring.)

The hike: Mesa Peak Motorway, as this dirt road is known, ascends steeply at first, gaining 1,500 feet in 2 1/2 miles. With the elevation come sweeping panoramic views of Point Dume, Santa Monica Bay and Palos Verdes Peninsula. On clear days, Catalina, San Clemente, Anacapa and Santa Cruz islands float on the horizon.

The trail veers left toward Mesa Peak (1,844 feet) and continues climbing northwest through an area rich in fossilized shells. Hillside road cuts betray the Santa Monica Mountains’ ocean heritage. As you hike the spine of the range, a good view to the north is yours: The volcanic rocks of Goat Butte tower above Malibu Creek gorge, and the path of Triunfo Canyon can be traced.

The road passes through an area of interesting sandstone formations and intersects paved Corral Canyon Road, which is termed Castro Motorway from this point. Continue west on Castro Motorway for one mile, reaching the intersection with Bulldog Motorway.

The Backbone Trail continues west toward the forest of antennas atop Castro Peak (2,824 feet)--and maybe someday to Point Mugu.

Option: Return via Bulldog Motorway. For a nice loop trip back through Malibu Creek State Park, bear right on Bulldog Motorway. Descend steeply under transmission lines, veering east and dropping into Triunfo Canyon. In 3 1/2 miles, you reach Twentieth Century Road. Turn right and soon pass what was once the location of the exterior sets for the “MASH” TV series. (The set is now on display in the Smithsonian.) The prominent Goat Buttes that tower above Malibu Creek are featured in the opening shot of each episode.

The road passes Century Lake, crosses a ridge, then drops down to Malibu Creek and comes to a fork in the road. Take either the left (high road) or continue straight ahead over the bridge on the low road; the roads meet again downstream, so you may select either one. One-half mile after the roads rejoin, you approach the park’s day use parking area.

Follow a dirt road that skirts this parking area, leads past a giant valley oak and approaches the state park’s newly constructed (but not yet open) campground.

Bear right on a dirt road that leads a short distance through meadowland to the park’s new Group Camp. Here you’ll join a connector trail, signed with the international hiking symbol, that will take you a mile up and over a low brushy ridge to Tapia Park. Walk through the park back to your car.

Hikers will enjoy planning their next trip to the Santa Monicas with the help of the large format four-color map “Trails of the Santa Monica Mountains.” The map, which highlights the existing and proposed route of the Backbone Trail, as well as the trail network through state and national parklands, was produced by the nonprofit California Coastal Trails Foundation.

To obtain a copy, send $2.50 and your name and address to: California Coastal Trails Foundation, Attn: S.M. Map, P.O. Box 20073, Santa Barbara, Calif. 93120.

Tapia County Park to Castro Crest: seven miles one way; 2,000-foot elevation gain. Return through Malibu Creek State Park via Bulldog Motorway, Twentieth Century Road: 14 miles round trip; 2,000-foot elevation gain.