IN THE KITCHEN : Going Crackers Over Glamorous Grahams

OVERHEARD AT THE office: Said one, “I’ll trade you this fruitcake and half a box of California Crunch for those two little chocolate-covered graham crackers.”

“Not on your life,” was the reply.

Within moments of arriving at the office, the graham crackers--snugly tucked into a thick coat of good Ghirardelli chocolate--became the month’s most coveted cookie. After one bite the eater’s eyes would light up, and after the second he or she would inevitably say, “Where can I get some more of these?” Told they are obtainable only by mail--and cost an absurd amount of money (20 cookies, more or less, cost $16.75)--not one person seemed the least put off. Everybody wanted more.

These gourmet grahams are incredibly delicious. Not too sweet, they pair the sophisticated punch of wickedly good chocolate with the innocent crunch of the wholesome graham cracker. It is an unbeatable combination.

As I munched the last of the cookies, it occurred to me that these chocolate grahams would be great with a glass of milk. I decided to save half a cookie to take home and try it. But I made the sad mistake of turning my back--for the merest moment--and somebody sneaked up and snatched it.

Snatched half a cookie? Yes indeed. They’re that good.

Chocolate-Covered Graham Crackers, $16.75 postpaid from Cafe Beaujolais Bakery, P.O. Box 730, Mendocino, Calif. 95460. Telephone orders: (707) 964-0292. DR