The following are summaries of recent Times...

The following are summaries of recent Times restaurant reviews.

Al’s Steakhouse & Saloon, 16020 E. 1st St., Santa Ana . (714) 550-0847 . Open daily 5 to 10 p.m. (until 11 on weekends). Just as our waitress promised, there is “nothin’ fancy, just food” at this urban steakhouse that looks as if it belongs alongside one of those old highways made obsolete by the interstates. Appetizers are served on large, cast-iron skillets, and there is a giant relish tray with all meals. Salad dressings are homemade and include a very good Caesar and a thick, hearty ranch. Steaks can be tough, but non-steak items are terrific, like barbecued pork ribs, an entire slab, and lamb chops, six mini-chops marinated in garlic and flame broiled. Bionic baked potatoes and heaps of steamed veggies ride sidesaddle. Be hungry, or have a big dog waiting at home.

Anh Hong, 10195 Westminster Ave., Garden Grove. (714) 537-5230. Open Mondays through Thursdays 3 to 10 p.m., Fridays and Saturdays 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Anh Hong is a Vietnamese restaurant for beef lovers only; the specialty is a seven-course beef dinner that would bring a trucker to his knees. You start with a flavorful beef salad topped with a sweet vinegar sauce and then experience a variety of courses ranging from fondue to grilled sausages wrapped in Hawaiian lot leaf. Service is warm and attentive, and the waiters will show how the various courses should be eaten. It is an encounter with Vietnamese culture as well as a culinary adventure. For $9.95, there is probably no greater value anywhere. Just make sure you go on an empty stomach.

Aurora Ristorante, 1341 S. Euclid St., Fullerton. (714) 738-0272. Open Mondays through Fridays, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., Mondays through Saturdays 5 to 10 p.m.

Aurora Ristorante looks as if it belongs in another age, with its tuxedoed waiters, a dimly pink ambiance and classic preparations too rich for the blood of the ‘80s. Chef-owner Leo Holczer has a taste for the traditional, but he tempers it with such exotic specials as alligator, buffalo and wild game birds. Pastas are rich and creamy, and there is a wonderful wine list with a wealth of vintage Italian reds. The music gets to be a bit much, though, particularly when a live organist is straining to be heard over a pianist playing for a private party in an adjoining banquet room.

Bangkok IV, 3333 Bear St., Costa Mesa. (714) 540-7661 . Open daily 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. (weekends until 10).

Now they have really done it. They have opened an upscale Thai restaurant in a shopping mall--South Coast Plaza’s Crystal Court. What next? Bangkok IV is operated by veteran Lucky Teachanarong, and his newest outing is a flat-out winner. Appetizers like taro todd , Balboa mussels, and Thai toasts are terrific, and main dishes like paht Thai (flat noodles pan-fried with pork, shrimp, and bean sprouts) and pork with green beans in dry curry paste aren’t far behind. Food tends to be on the sweet side here, but the management will turn up the heat on request. Now you have been warned. There are even some excellent homemade desserts.

Best Place Restaurant, 9693 Garden Grove Blvd., Garden Grove. (714) 638-3600. Open daily 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Korean cuisine is remarkable--full of musk and smoky flavors. A stretch of Garden Grove Boulevard has a number of places to experience it. Look no further: Best Place Restaurant, a barbecue house serving stews, grills, griddles, and even sushi should satisfy all your needs. Try the gool bo sam , a large platter of raw oysters, salt pork, white radish and Chinese cabbage; you roll everything up and eat it like a taco. Pa jeon is a giant pancake with green onion, pork, and red pepper. Sit on low cushions and barbecue beef on a tableside grill, just like the Korean families do it. Remarkably addictive.

Bistango, 19100 Von Karman Ave., Irvine. (714) 752-5222. Open daily 11:15 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., 5 :15 to midnight.

Bistango is a visually stunning new restaurant with an open kitchen, high-tech lines and the feel of a contemporary art museum. The kitchen has potential, but service is inexperienced and the management seems more concerned with appearance than with maintaining a standard. Outstanding appetizers include duck sausage with polenta, carpaccio of veal and beef and Maryland crab cakes with pink grapefruit and mache lettuce. Pastas also highlight this Italianate menu, created by executive chef Eugenio Martignago, a veteran of the restaurant wars on Los Angeles’ Westside. Desserts are nearly as stunning as the surroundings. Don’t leave without trying the three-chocolate terrine. When Bistango matures, look for greatness.

The Bouzy Rouge Cafe, 3110 Newport Blvd., Newport Beach. (714) 673-3440. Open daily 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Newport Beach’s trend-setting restaurant and wine bar has a new menu featuring tapas, Spanish appetizers designed to tickle the palate and stimulate a powerful thirst at the bar. Owner Tony Hermann, in a bid to infuse his eclectic European kitchen with fresh blood, has taken an interesting gamble in the process, creating dishes that are at once complex and original. But the gamble fails: Tapas belong on the bar, not in the kitchen. One is better off sticking to Bouzy’s old favorites and its delicious wine list. It is still a delightful place, but forget those tapas.

Capriccio Italiano Ristorante, 25830 Marguerite Parkway, Village Mall, Mission Viejo. (714) 855-6866. Open Mondays through Fridays 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., 4 to 9:30; weekends 4 to 9:30.

Capriccio may mean “whim” in Italian, but there is nothing whimsical about the food in this restaurant; it is polished and sophisticated. For my money, it is a real find. The kitchen is run by two brothers from Palermo, Sal and Franco Maniaci, but there is barely a trace of Sicilan influence in the dishes they serve. Appetizers like vitello tonnato and lumache del bosco are marvelous, and pastas are fresh and homemade. Many main dishes have French overtones, like a stylish lamb rack with truffles and foie gras , or a civet of hare called lepre salmi. Cappriccio’s location is modest, and so are prices, but its class is obvious.

Chez Cary, 571 S. Main St., Orange . (714) 542-3595 . Open daily 6:30 to 9:30 p.m .

Chez Cary is like a dry-docked cruise ship; luxurious, fitted speciously, and caught in a time warp. The main dining room is a mausoleum of crystal and red velvet, and service is conspicuously understated by teams of waiters and captains pushing flaming carts and sweeping through the dining room. Musicians are never far behind. Don’t bother with the beluga or the foie gras , which are priced out of reality, but do enjoy traditional goodies like escargot , Dover sole, steak au poivre , veal chops, and volaille a la Bourgeoie , the latter a breast of capon in an unctuous sauce of bacon, onion, and carrots. For heaven’s sake, don’t forget your dinner jacket.

The Clay Oven, 15345 Jeffrey Road, Irvine. (714) 552-2851. Open Tuesdays through Sundays, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., 5:30 to 10:30.

The Clay Oven is an Indian restaurant inauspiciously located in a country shopping mall and specializing in dishes from the tandoor, the authentic oven advertised by the restaurant’s name. Fish tikka, here made with chunks of broiled swordfish, is downright heavenly, and tandoori chicken, rubbed red with a spice mixture and broiled until sizzling, is another winner. There is an interesting selection of vegetable dishes, as well. Wash everything down with giant bottles of imported Indian beer and lament the fact that most of the really exotic specialties you see displayed on the menu won’t be available.

Dewi, 1762 N. Tustin Ave., Orange, (714) 637-1101, and 9606 Hamilton Ave., Huntington Beach, (714) 962-4446. Open Tuesdays through Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Hurry over--while there is still time--to Dewi in Orange, a small Indonesian restaurant/grocery store hidden among commercial properties along a busy avenue. Nasi rames is a mixed rice plate with a whole cookbook full of Indonesian goodies, and the restaurant has fabulous barbecued chicken and hot stewed beef dishes. Owner Edith Vredevoogd is constantly preparing little snacks like lemper , a sticky rice roll filled with minced chicken, or cendol , mysterious green bits taken with crushed ice, syrup, and jackfruit. Don’t despair if you miss the Orange restaurant, though. There is a second Dewi run by Mrs. V’s brother in Huntington Beach. Exotica at its best.

Dover’s, at the Doubletree Hotel, 100 E. The City Drive, Orange . (714) 634-4500. Open weekdays 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., daily 5:30 to 10.

Dover’s at the Doubletree Hotel in Orange is an eye-catching restaurant with a ceiling over three stories high, and an eclectic collection of objets d’art that gives the restaurant the feeling of a museum, but the cooking is often less lofty. Chef Steve Lancaster attempts too much, and the result is an erratic jumble of good and bad. Salmon tartare is wonderfully silky and big enough to share, and appetizers are generally impressive, especially a seafood sausage in a bed of green and white linguini. Entrees lean toward the exotic; avoid the Pacific Rim dishes (except for the tea-poached salmon, which is great), and pursue the simpler dishes. Dessert is dreary. Ambiance is dressy.

JW’s, in the Anaheim Marriott Hotel, 700 W. Convention Way, Anaheim . (714) 750-0900 . Open Mondays through Saturdays, 6 to 9 p.m.

JW’s is one of those staunchly old-school special occasion restaurants, but the food is somewhat innovative and of surprisingly high quality. Appetizers show a certain daring, like home grown foie gras served on a potato galette in a Madeira sauce, or escargot ravioli with wild mushrooms. Main dishes show enthusiasm as well, and the sauces accompanying them are generally big hits. Roast boar comes drenched with a simple sauce of sage, juniper and honey, and has a robust spiciness. Venison comes in a sauce based on red wine vinegar. Prices are definitely on the high end, service attentive and manicured. It is fail-safe the way only a good hotel restaurant can be.

La Mer Genkai, 540 S. Coast Highway, Laguna Beach. (714) 497-6799. Open daily from 5:30 p.m.

La Mer Genkai is a restaurant with something for everybody: the food is Frenchified Japanese, with more than a hint of California thrown in for good measure. Belly up to the sushi bar for such designer treats as “dynamite,” a seaweed wrapped cone with tuna, daikon sprouts and Japanese chili. Or sit in the woodsy dining room with the pink back lighting and ape at sauteed duck in rasberry butter served rose petal style, and simple salmon teriyaki. Both traditional and non-traditional dishes are given a field day in this noisy, exuberant restaurant. Yuppies are especially welcome.

Marrakesh, 1100 W. Coast Highway, Newport Beach . (714) 645-8384. Open weekdays 6 to 10 p.m., weekends 5:30 to 11 p.m.

Eat with your fingers without fear of recrimination from your mother at Marrakesh, a Moroccan restaurant in Newport Beach. You sit on cushions at a low table in a tent-like room and manhandle your way through a traditional, multi-course dinner served by waiters in desert garb. Begin with harira , the spicy lentil broth, and assorted salads eaten with local bread. B’stilla , a chicken and egg pie topped with cinnamon and sugar, will follow, and then a choice of main dishes including quail, rabbit and couscous, the grain staple eaten throughout north Africa. It’s a sensual, completely delightful way to spend an evening.

Mi Rincon, 7001 S. Bristol St., Santa Ana . (714) 836-9482 . Open daily except Monday s from noon to 9 p.m., weekends until 10 p.m.

Mi Rincon specializes in Peruvian cuisine, a mingling of Indian and Spanish influences with a host of original twists. Ceviche, the seafood appetizer of marinated raw fish so often identified as Mexican, is really Peruvian in origin, and Maria Leva, the chef here, makes one of the best versions ever. Papas a la Huancaina is a classic dish from northern Peru, whole boiled potatoes blanketed with a rich sauce made from cheese, cream, chili, and olive oil. Arroz con pato is an amazing braised duck specialty with coriander rice. Watch out for Inca Cola, a pale yellow monstrosity that tastes like liquid bubble gum. Everything else is a delight.

Mr. Stox, 1105 E. Katella Ave., Anaheim. (714) 634-2994. Open Mondays through Fridays 11 a.m. to 3 p.m., daily 5:30 to 10 p.m.

Mr. Stox is not the name of a new board game about insider trading. It’s a restaurant, and a very accomplished one at that. The design is ordinarily plush, but the menu is full of surprises; pureed black bean soup with a fresh pepper salsa, mesquite-grilled duck salad with a sesame oil vinaigrette and a sumptuously carved lamb rack, basted with fresh rosemary grown in one of the restaurant’s back gardens. If you have a healthy expense account, you can indulge in one of America’s most celebrated wine lists, which features a wide selection of great Bordeauxs and Burgundies. Semi-dressy, and surprisingly consistent.

Orange Blossom, 3804 E. Chapman, Orange. (714) 633-1888. Open daily from 4:30 p.m. Beijing, 2940 E. Chapman, Orange . (714) 744-2491. Open daily 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Orange Blossom and Beijing are two radically different Chinese restaurants within shouting distance of one another on Chapman Avenue in the city of Orange. Orange Blossom is a dinner house that faces West in spirit, Beijing is primarily a lunch place with an Eastern bent. Orange Blossom has innovative dishes like butterfly eggplant with a cream cheese filling, and minced pigeon in lettuce cups. Beijing has terrific Mandarin chicken in a vinegary sauce, and twice cooked pork, a fiery Szechuan specialty that has been boiled, then pan fried with vegetables. Both restaurants are winners.

The Pavilion, 690 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach. (714) 760-4920. Open daily 6:30 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.

Hotel restaurants often are below standard, but the Pavilion is a cut above. Chef Esther Carpenter is innovative and adventurous, and her menu is filled with imagination. Especially good are a luxurious lobster and prosciutto sandwich served at lunch and a dinner-time veal chop, a deliciously heavy creation stuffed with Roquefort cheese and blanketed with a pecan sauce. There is a special spa menu for those conscious of fitness, and the selection is wonderful. Don’t miss the Japanese-style pasta with seafood, or the ethereally dressed salads. Surroundings are elegant, and the restaurant is priced to match.

South of Santa Fe, 777 S. Main St., Orange. (714) 972-9900. Open daily 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.

There is plenty of corn in this new southwestern spinoff from the good folks who run El Cholo and the Sonora Cafe. Service is sprightly, decor is cheerfully bizarre, and the menu is filled with things that your Mexican grandmother never dreamed of: confetti jicama salad, duck tamales and tequila ice cream. The concept fails when the kitchen tries to get too creative for its own good, so you had better stick to old standbys, such as El Cholo combinations, and new standbys, such as the superb fajitas. If you must have innovation, though, there are fine chilis stuffed with goat cheese, an excellent swordfish in a tomato salsa and interesting desserts.

Sun Hai, 8940 Garden Grove Blvd., Garden Grove, Suite 114. (714) 552-2851. Open daily except Mondays, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., 5:30 to 10:30.

This tiny hole-in-the-mini-mall, in a quiet Korean neighborhood in Garden Grove, serves some of the best Chinese dumplings you will ever taste, at laughably low prices. Best are pan fried dumplings, eight to an order, perfectly browned, crunchy, and toothsome, eaten with rice vinegar and Korean chili paste. Also wonderful is the restaurant’s spicy fried chicken, a sumptuously blended dish of red and green chili, green onion, and little bits of batter-fried chicken that have been rolled in pepper salt. Nobody here speaks very good English, but the smiles generated by the food are more than you will need to communicate.

Watercolors, at the Dana Point Resort, 25125 Park Lantern, Dana Point . (714) 661-5000. Open daily 6:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.

California cuisine looks even more exotic at the new, Cape Cod-style Watercolors restaurant located in the Dana Point Resort. Chef Peter Striffolino has put together a menu filled with local delicacies, like Pacific oysters baked with leeks and spinach, Sonoma goat cheese with red oak lettuce, and medallions of lamb with red cabbage and papaya chutney. The restaurant is tastefully put together as well, with a broad view, spacious seating, and first-class appointments, but the experience there is somewhat marred by erratic service. Watercolors should be first-class too . . . as soon as the paint dries.

The Wine Cellar at the Newporter Resort, 1107 Jamboree Road, Newport Beach . (714) 644-1700 . Open Tuesdays through Saturdays, 6 to 10 p.m.

The Wine Cellar is Orange County’s newest temple of haute cuisine . Menus are rotated every week and consist of five courses, designed by Jean Banchet of Le Francais in Wheeling, Ill., one of the most famous chefs in the world today. Menu VI--which begins with a cold pheasant pate with green chartreuse, continues with a stuffed filet of sole in a champagne sauce, and features grilled squab with green cabbage and natural juices--is one of six prie fixe menus presented by executive chef Ted Gray, and it is a knockout. You won’t find better French cuisine anywhere in the state.