Cookbook Corner : A Fine Introduction to Thailand Cooking : Try Thai by Sharon Wong Hoy (Benshaw Publications, $4.95), paperback, 84 pages).

Sharon Wong Hoy’s “Try Thai” is a tiny cookbook compared to the lavishly illustrated, hefty volumes now in fashion. But what counts in recipes is quality. And Hoy, who has taught Chinese cookery on Los Angeles’ Westside for years, is well able to provide that.

Noting the increased interest in Asian foods, Hoy has incorporated Thai and Japanese recipes into her community adult school classes. The transition from Chinese to Thai is slight because much Thai food is adapted from Southern Chinese cookery, she explains.

Thai rice noodle dishes are fundamentally Chinese with a change of seasonings. One of them, the popular mee krob, which is made with crisp fried rice sticks, is “basically like Chinese chicken salad with sweet and sour sauce,” Hoy said. Mint leaves and hot green chiles give Thai flavor to classic Chinese beef in oyster sauce. Cashew chicken switches from mild to Thai-spicy with the addition of hot red chiles and curry paste. And both curry paste and shrimp paste go into a Thai version of broccoli beef.

Lesser Known Mixtures

Hoy’s book includes dishes featured at local Thai restaurants in versions that she has worked out by experimenting and querying restaurant personnel. Among the appetizers are stuffed chicken wings, chicken satay with peanut sauce and spring rolls. The common hot and sour shrimp and coconut chicken soups are accompanied by some lesser known mixtures.

And Hoy provides a liberal selection of salads, ranging from simple marinated bean sprouts to warm squid salad with peanuts and an exotic combination of shredded green papaya, tomatoes and dried shrimp.

There is an interesting version of Thai style barbecued chicken with a dipping sauce based on apricot preserves and apricot nectar. A similar sauce goes with a spectacular-sounding chicken that is marinated, roasted, finished on the grill and served aflame with rum.

Not Surprising

Hoy skips Thai desserts, which is not surprising since most Thai restaurants in this country are weak in that category. She omits beverages also, so the reader must look elsewhere for instructions on preparing icy Thai tea and coffee. She does, however, provide recipes for basic curry pastes rather than requiring the reader to shop for commercial pastes.

This is an easy-to-follow introductory book, and Hoy has chosen not to complicate it with Thai recipe titles but does offer a short glossary of ingredients and food terms.

To order the book, send $4.95 plus $1.60 for tax, postage and handling ($6.55 in total) to Benshaw Publications, 940 Princeton Drive, Marina del Rey 90292.

For information on Hoy’s cooking classes, call the Venice Community Adult School at (213) 306-8111; the Westchester Community Adult School, (213) 641-4867, or the Beverly Hills Community Adult School, (213) 277-4747.

Hoy has also written a Chinese cookbook, “Cuisine of China.” Here are two of her Thai dishes.

THAI BARBECUE CHICKEN

2 teaspoons curry powder

1 teaspoon turmeric

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/2 cup coconut milk

3 tablespoons minced cilantro, including stems

3 tablespoons minced garlic

3 tablespoons minced onion

1 tablespoon sugar

1 (3- to 4-pound) chicken, quartered

Apricot Sauce

Combine curry powder, turmeric, salt, pepper, coconut milk, cilantro, garlic, onion and sugar. Rub chicken with marinade. Marinate in refrigerator at least 4 hours or overnight.

Roast chicken at 350 degrees 45 minutes. Broil 3 to 5 minutes on each side or until dark golden brown. Serve with Apricot Sauce. Makes 4 servings.

Apricot Sauce

1/2 cup apricot preserves or jam

1/4 cup apricot nectar

1 teaspoon Thai- or Chinese-style chile sauce

Combine apricot preserves, apricot nectar and chile sauce in small saucepan. Heat and stir until mixture is blended and comes to boil. Makes 3/4 cup.

BEEF IN SPICY MINT OYSTER SAUCE

2 tablespoons dry Sherry

3 tablespoons oyster sauce

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon vinegar

1 1/2 teaspoons sugar

1 pound lean beef, cut into thin strips

1 tablespoon cornstarch

3 tablespoons oil

1 carrot, cut diagonally into thin 2-inch ovals

1 medium onion, cut into 2-inch strips

1 stalk celery, cut into thin 2-inch strips

1/2 cup thinly sliced mushrooms

1/2 cup baby corn, halved lengthwise

1 cup Chinese pea pods

2 serrano chiles, cut crosswise into thin slices

12 mint leaves

Combine Sherry, 1 tablespoon oyster sauce, 1 minced clove garlic, vinegar and 1 teaspoon sugar. Combine beef strips with mixture and marinate 10 minutes. Drain and coat with cornstarch.

Heat 1 tablespoon oil in wok or large skillet. Brown half remaining minced garlic. Add carrot and onion. Stir-fry over high heat 1 minute. Add celery, mushrooms and baby corn. Stir-fry 30 seconds. Add pea pods. Stir-fry 20 seconds. Season with 1 tablespoon oyster sauce and 1/4 teaspoon sugar. Remove from wok.

Heat remaining 2 tablespoons oil. Brown remaining minced garlic. Add beef and serrano chiles. Stir-fry 1 minute or until beef is half cooked. Return cooked vegetables to wok and add mint leaves. Cook and stir 30 seconds over high heat. Season to taste with remaining oyster sauce and sugar. Makes 4 servings.