Home-Styled Weddings : THE CAKE

From girlhood days on, most brides dream of a multitiered wedding cake with ethereal grandeur. However, for the novice home baker who generously offers to execute the ambitious project of baking such a cake, perfection is often elusive.

True, they say, do-it-yourself is chic nowadays--but, to bake a wedding cake at home? Even the thought might well quickly be dismissed at the sight of a traditional creation in a bakery showcase. But, they also say that today anything goes in wedding cakes. Aha, does that mean that classic rules can be broken? If so, that would make life easier and more rewarding for the preparer.

Let’s start with the cake itself. In the beginning there were heavy fruitcakes. Then white cakes took over and have since become traditional. Now, however, the white cake’s marriage with glorious white icing is losing its spark. Beneath the elegance of the still favored white frosting--which can be anything from an ivory butter cream to meringue, whipped cream or cream cheese icing--today may lie a luscious chocolate mousse cake filled with fresh raspberries. Other surprises could be a lemon cheesecake, a buttery rich dacquoise, or a 24-carat carrot-nut cake, whatever the bride or groom desires.

How about a black and white cake? According to Zella Junkin, consumer affairs manager of Wilton Enterprises, this is no longer a shocking request for the cake decorators at the Wilton Bakeries in Chicago. “We get orders to make black and white cakes decorated with black roses and baby’s breath,” she said. “Although the general frosting preference is still white, white icing is being accented with mauve or rose, peach, lavender or whatever colors they (brides) want in their dresses,” Junkin continued.

What other changes are we seeing in the modern bride’s dream cake?

Wishes are being fulfilled in table tops adorned with decorations ranging from iridescent glitz to nostalgic lace. The ultimate wedding cake will have a cascade of flowers--either butter-cream drop icing flowers or sugar pastillages of orchids and orange blossoms. By far, the most beautiful cover-ups (this really makes life easier for the cake baker) are clusters of fresh, fresh flowers or silk flowers (only those with an aura of class, please), enhanced with satin ribbon loops, poufs of fine nylon tulle or lace. Fresh roses are often chosen, from casual older blooms to perfect buds, from pastels to bright red, all seemingly reflecting the bride’s personality.

We’ve also seen whipped cream frostings embellished with shaved white chocolate curls or “bark,” and dusted with a sprinkling of powdered sugar. Chocolate leaves, white or dark, can be very effective with fresh or chocolate roses.

Even the old-time favorite ornament on the top cake (which is often saved by the couple for their first anniversary) is being replaced by a refreshing nosegay or an arch made from a small vine of flowers trimmed with tulle and bows. There even are edible moldings of tennis racket or golf club sets for a sports-minded couple, or a violin or piano for the musically inclined bride. The smaller groom’s cake, which is still popular in the Midwest, according to Junkin, could be a nut torte, a gooey chocolate cake, or any flavor cake decorated to reflect the groom’s hobby or profession.

A Pleasure for Bakers

Rather than becoming a stressful project, preparing a modern wedding cake could turn into pleasure for bakers. “They should allow themselves plenty of time to bake the cake ahead, or even freeze the cake itself,” Junkin advised. Instead of freezing, the cake layers could be be prepared about two days in advance, put together with butter-cream icing or other nonspoil filling and covered with a crumb-sealing coating of warmed jelly or butter-cream frosting.

“Planning is the big thing, so they (home bakers) have everything they need. Beginners should choose a simple design and practice using the pastry bag on an upside down pan,” Junkin said.

Making the layers stable in a tiered cake is a structural engineering feat in itself. Although there are pillars and dowel kits available, the brightest new solution from Wilton is the Floating Tiers Cake Stand Set ($59.99) The contemporary stand consists of a sturdy metal rod that fits at the edge of the cakes rather than through the center and holds three round racks for the smooth-edged separator plates. It gives you a lot of flexibility in the type of cake, in transporting, assembly of the layers, as well as in cutting the serving pieces.

Here are some more tips on preparing a successful tiered wedding cake:

When using fresh flowers, it’s a good idea to talk with the bride’s florist to find out what kind of flowers you want to use on the cake that would either match or provide pleasing contrast to the bridal bouquets or centerpieces. Aside from roses, other beautiful examples include: orchids, stephanotis, pansies, hyacinths, lemon or orange blossoms and leaves, white or lavender lilacs, tiny tulips, fresias, baby’s breath. In any case, always check to be sure none is poisonous. Clusters of flowers and greens must be chosen as carefully as possible, eliminating dead petals. Soaking in ice water overnight can also prolong floral freshness. The drained sprigs should be added at the very last minute at the reception .

The table used to hold the wedding cake could have a tablecloth with the same tones or type of materials used in the bridal gown or veil. Ribbon motifs can be carried through the cake as well as the cake table.

The wedding cake is sometimes placed at the center of a bridal table, but generally it is placed on its own separate little table that is away from the banquet food (if served buffet style).

Cake layers should be level on top and bottom. Cool the cakes completely and, using a thin, long serrated knife, trim off uneven layers. Brush off excess crumbs that will stick to icing with a pastry brush. (Fragile cakes can be trimmed and crumbed after chilling or freezing.) A thin coating of warmed frosting, jelly or syrup can seal in the crumbs. To avoid crumbs adhering to the spatula and creating messy flecks, never pick the spatula up when it is on the cake surface. Instead swing it back to the iced surface and lift it carefully so you don’t pick up the crumbs.

Cake layers can be made up to 3 months in advance, placed on cake cardboards, wrapped well with foil and stored in the freezer. If made two days before the wedding, moisten cake surfaces with fruit liqueur or sugar syrup, wrap well with plastic film wrap and refrigerate.

Thaw frozen cake layers in wrapping and frost while still cold.

Important decorating tools include a sturdy decorating turntable, a flexible metal spatula (about 1 inch in width), various decorating tips, adapters and pastry bags.

Icing should be made in no more than one to two batches at a time. Fill, ice and decorate all cake layers before assembling. Refrigerate each layer if necessary.

When using whipped cream frosting, avoid overwhipping. The less air it contains, the smoother and longer lasting the whipped cream will be. (See directions on page 24 for making whipped cream icing in a food processor.) When using a pastry bag, fill it no more than two-thirds full. For whipped cream icing, use a smaller bag and fill it only half-full. The squeezing of the bag continues to manipulate cream, making it coarser.

The base tier requires a sturdy base plate or 3 or more thicknesses of corrugated cardboard, or use Masonite or plywood. Each tier should be on cardboard cut to fit. “Glue” the cake to board or plastic plate layers with a smear of frosting.

For easy spreading, thin butter-cream icing with light corn syrup.

How to Prevent Sticking

Before placing a separator plate or cardboard circle directly atop another tier, sprinkle a little powdered sugar or coconut flakes on top to prevent the plate or circle from sticking.

When transporting a tiered wedding cake, separate the tiers and place them in individual boxes that are deep enough to hold both tier and columns it supports. During warm weather, insulate cake boxes by lining with 1-inch thick sheets of Styrofoam.

Transport ornaments, fresh flowers, leaves, candied or pastillage flowers, ribbons and lace in separate boxes. In case of last minute disasters, pack along extra frosting with pastry bags and tips, or simply cover up ruined spots with flowers.

For large gatherings, instead of making tall tiered cakes that are subject to risk of collapsing, prepare sheet cakes that match the design of the tiered cake for the extra servings and stay with the three tiers.

Crystallized flowers make pretty garnishes: just dip thin petaled blossoms and leaves, one at a time, into lightly stirred egg white. Remove any excess egg white with brush and sift granulated sugar over flowers. Place on sheet of wax paper to dry in cool place for 2 to 3 days.

Finally avoid hodgepodge in a wedding cake, remember that less is best and elegance can be achieved in a simple construction.

To expand your repertoire of wedding cake ideas, the following sources may be consulted: “Weddings by Martha Stewart” (Clarkson N. Potter Inc.: $50); 1988 Wilton Yearbook of Cake Decorating (1989 will be arriving in August); Wilton’s video on “How to Make Wedding Cakes” ($19.99); “Pretty Cakes, The Art of Cake Decorating” by Mary Goodbody with Jane Stacey (Harper & Row: $22.50), Maid of Scandinavia Mailbox News (May 1988 issue has many fine samples of wedding cakes), subscribe by writing to 3244 Raleigh Ave., Minneapolis, Minn. 55416. Or call toll-free, (800) 328-6722. THREE-TIERED WEDDING CAKE

2 (14-inch) layers Orange Macadamia Cake

2 (10-inch) layers Choco-Berry Cake

2 (6-inch) layers Plantation Pecan Cake

6 recipes Butter Cream Frosting, or favorite frosting

Floating tiers stand set

Fresh flowers

Ribbons

Top tier ornament

Prepare cakes about 2 days in advance, cover with film wrap and and refrigerate. (Or prepare up to 3 months in advance and freeze.) Using serrated knife, trim cakes to level surfaces. Brush crumbs off cake with pastry brush. Smear few strokes of frosting on cardboard cake circle cut same size as cake. Place cake on cardboard. Place each size cake on plastic separator plate. Fill and cover each cake with top layer, positioning top layer with smooth bottom side up.

With large spatula, place mound of frosting in center of top and spread across cake, pushing excess icing down onto sides. (Always keep spatula on iced surface; touching cake surface will mix in crumbs.) Ice sides until smooth.

Place spatula flat on one edge of cake top and sweep it across to center of cake. Lift off, remove excess icing and repeat, starting from new point on edge of cake top. Repeat procedure until entire top surface is smooth.

Tint about 1 cup of frosting with peach (or other color desired) paste color for bows, and 1/2 cup with green paste for leaves.

To decorate 6-inch layer: Mark cake at top edge in 8ths, dotting with wood picks. Outline swag pattern with wood picks. Fill bag, inserted with number 16 tip (open star tip), 2/3 full with white icing. Holding bag at 45-degree angle, pipe icing in zig-zag motion to create ruffled swag design.

Fill another bag with peach icing using number 104 tip (petal tip). At top of garland, pipe icing to create peach bows: Hold bag at 45-degree angle with wide end of tip touching surface, narrow end up. As you squeeze, move tip up and around to left, then down and back to starting point, relaxing pressure. Repeat procedure in opposite direction, adding second loop. Stop pressure. Add 2 streamers starting each at center of bow. Decorate center of bow using number 352 tip (V-cut leaf tip) with green icing.

Fill bag with white icing and decorate top and bottom of cake with shell borders, using number 16 tip (open star tip) for top and number 21 (open star tip) for bottom. Hold bag at 45-degree angle with tip slightly above surface and end of bag pointing to right. Squeeze with heavy pressure and slightly lift tip as icing builds and fans out onto full base. Relax pressure as you pull bag down to right as you make tail. Stop pressure and pull tip away. Always work to right, starting each new shell slightly behind tail of previous shell.

To decorate 10- and 14-inch layers: Mark cake in 8ths, dotting with wood picks 1 inch down from top edge. Outline swag pattern with wood pick. Using number 104 petal tip, pipe white icing to create ruffled swag. Change to number 21 open star tip and pipe another ruffled garland slightly above previous swag. Pipe peach and green bows on top of swags, repeating procedure above. Decorate top and bottom edge with shell borders using white icing and number 21 open star tip.

Attach fresh flowers (lilacs and baby’s breath) to side of floating tier stand with fine florist wire. Place cake layers on stand and embellish centers or sides (in cascading form) with more flowers. Add silk ribbons to match motif, as desired. Place ornament and more flowers and ribbons on top, if desired. Makes about 130 servings.

ORANGE MACADAMIA CAKE

(First Layer)

3 cups plus 6 tablespoons cake flour

2 1/4 cups sugar

1 1/2 tablespoons baking powder

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

3/4 cup oil

8 egg yolks

1 1/8 cups cold water or orange juice

3 tablespoons grated orange peel

12 egg whites

3/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

6 tablespoons butter, melted

1 1/2 cups Butter Cream Frosting

1 cup chopped macadamia nuts

2 tablespoons orange liqueur

Grease, flour and line 14x2-inch round layer cake baking pan with parchment paper.

Sift together flour, sugar, baking powder and salt into large bowl. Make well in center and add oil, egg yolks, water and orange peel. Stir until smooth.

Beat egg whites with cream of tartar until stiff but not dry. Gradually pour egg yolk mixture over beaten whites, gently folding just until blended. Fold in melted butter just until blended. Turn into prepared pan, leveling off top evenly with spatula. Bake at 325 degrees 55 minutes or until top springs back when touched lightly with finger. Cool in pan before removing. Makes 1 layer only.

Repeat cake for second layer. Fill layers with 1 1/2 cups icing mixed with chopped macadamia nuts and orange liqueur. Makes about 77 servings.

CHOCO-BERRY CAKE

(Second Layer)

8 (1-ounce) squares unsweetened chocolate

1 cup butter or margarine

2 cups hot water

4 cups sifted cake flour

4 cups plus 2 tablespoons sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 cups sour cream

2 teaspoons vanilla

1 tablespoon baking soda

4 eggs, beaten

1 cup whipping cream

1 pint strawberries, hulled and sliced in halves

Grease, flour and line 2 (10x2-inch) round layer baking pans with parchment paper.

Melt chocolate in top of double boiler over hot water. Combine butter and 2 cups hot water in saucepan. Bring to boil. Stir in melted chocolate.

Sift together flour, 4 cups sugar and salt. Pour chocolate mixture into flour mixture all at once. Blend well. Mix in sour cream, vanilla and baking soda. Add eggs. Turn into prepared pans. Bake at 350 degrees 30 to 35 minutes or until cake tests done. Remove from oven and cool pans on racks.

Process whipping cream in food processor with remaining 2 tablespoons sugar just until soft, smooth peaks form. Be careful not to overwhip. (Volume will not increase.) Use cream and strawberries to fill cake layers. Makes about 39 servings.

PLANTATION PECAN CAKE

(From “Lee Bailey’s Country Desserts” cookbook)

(Third Layer)

1 1/2 cups sifted flour

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 cups finely chopped or grated pecans

1/2 cup unsalted butter, softened

1 1/2 cups sugar

1/4 cup bourbon mixed with 1/2 cup water

1/2 cup egg whites, or 5 medium eggs

1/2 cup whipping cream, whipped, or butter cream icing

Grease and line 2 (6x2-inch) round cake pans with wax paper. Grease wax paper and lightly flour inside of each pan.

Sift together flour, baking powder and salt. Combine with chopped pecans. Cream butter and sugar until fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add dry mixture in 4 parts, alternating with bourbon water and mixing well after each addition.

Beat egg whites until stiff but not dry. Pile beaten whites on top of batter and carefully fold in with over and under motion. Pour batter into prepared pans and bake about 25 minutes, or until cake tester comes out clean. Allow layers to cool about 10 minutes, then run knife around edges of pans. Invert onto cooling racks. Cool completely. Fill with whipped cream. Makes about 14 servings.

Butter Cream Frosting

1/2 cup solid vegetable shortening

1/2 cup butter or margarine

1 teaspoon vanilla

4 cups powdered sugar, sifted (about 1 pound)

2 tablespoons milk

Cream butter and shortening with electric mixer. Add vanilla. Gradually add sugar, 1 cup at time, beating well on medium speed. Scrape sides and bottom of bowl often.

When all sugar has been mixed in, icing will appear dry. Add milk and beat at medium speed until light and fluffy. Keep icing covered with damp cloth until ready to use.

For best results, keep icing bowl in refrigerator when not in use. (Refrigerated in airtight container, icing can be stored 2 weeks. Re-whip before using.) Makes 3 cups.

Note: Add 2 additional tablespoons milk per recipe to thin for icing cake, or use 3 to 4 tablespoons light corn syrup to provide gloss and smoothness.

Whipped Cream Frosting

1 teaspoon unflavored gelatin

4 teaspoons cold water

1 1/2 pints (3 cups) whipping cream, well-chilled

1/4 cup granulated or powdered sugar

1/2 teaspoon vanilla or almond extract

Soften gelatin in cold water in small saucepan. Place over very low heat until gelatin dissolves. Remove from heat and cool slightly. Place whipping cream, sugar and vanilla in food processor fitted with metal blade.

Process, using pulse button, just until thick and smooth, with soft peaks. Do not overprocess. (Mixture will not increase in volume) Makes 3 cups.

Note: Gelatin stabilizer is not necessary if cake is to be served in cool room.

GRAND MARNIER ITALIAN MERINGUE BUTTER CREAM

(From “Martha Stewart’s Weddings” book)

2 cups sugar

2/3 cup water

6 egg whites

Dash salt

1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar

1 1/4 pounds unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 teaspoon vanilla

3 tablespoons Grand Marnier or other orange-flavored liqueur

Combine sugar and water in heavy saucepan and bring to boil without stirring. Cover and let boil until sugar is completely dissolved, 3 to 5 minutes. Uncover and let mixture boil until it reaches soft ball stage, 240 degrees on candy thermometer.

While syrup is cooking, beat egg whites with salt and cream of tartar until very stiff peaks form.

When syrup reaches 240 degrees, pour 1/4 cup syrup into stiffly beaten egg whites, drop by drop, beating at high speed. Gradually add rest of syrup in fine stream and beat 8 to 12 minutes, or until mixture is cool. (There must be no heat left in meringue or butter will melt.)

In separate bowl, cream butter until light and fluffy. Add butter to cooled meringue mixture, 3 tablespoons at time, beating well after each addition. Frosting should gradually become very thick and creamy. (If it doesn’t thicken properly, meringue may have been too warm, stir over bowl of ice, until frosting thickens.) Beat in vanilla extract and Grand Marnier. Use immediately.

Keep cool over bowl of ice water, stirring often, but do not refrigerate. Frost each layer with undercoat and refrigerate immediately. Makes 6 cups.

Note: Recipe cannot be doubled or tripled, use 1 batch at time. 1 (4- to 5-tier) cake will require 2 to 3 batches, 1 batch for undercoat and others for decorative frosting.