RESTAURANTS / Max Jacobson : The Most Tasteful Specialty of This Italian House Is Charm, Sadly

With a steady hand held high above his head, our waiter poured a generous portion of cold milk into a large skillet, then watched vigilantly as it warmed over a gentle flame. In less than a minute the milk was ready and deftly transferred to a plastic bottle provided by my friend Elaine. Elaine’s 2-year-old was visibly moved.

Perhaps if I had been a 2-year-old, Antonello would have moved me as well. People of all ages can expect that kind of courtly attention in this beautiful restaurant. The main dining room is a stunning miniature of a charming street in Bistagna, Italy, hometown of owner Antonio Cagnolo who oversees a warmly professional staff that caters to every whim of its guests. And what guests they are--men in Armani, women in Hanae Mori--the well-heeled gentry of Orange County. So what is the problem?

Just this. Unless you are planning on dining a la 2-year-old, don’t expect to be bowled over by what you eat. Nothing is terribly wrong with any of the food, but the majority of dishes are about as exciting as . . . you guessed it, a panful of warm milk.

It is not for lack of trying. Even though we brought a small child along unannounced, the hostess (one of the most graceful individuals I have yet encountered in a restaurant) handled us the way Von Karajan handles his baton. We didn’t get so much as a baleful stare from her, or anyone else at the front desk; instead, we were apologetically reshuffled to a comfy wall booth, so little Alex could stretch out and nap.

And our captain, in addition to being extremely charming, assured us that she was delighted to have a child in her busy station and repeatedly dropped by to give us extra attention. All of us were impressed by the luxurious comforts the restaurant offers: fresh, fragrant flowers; plush chairs; soft lighting; handsome tables dressed in fine crockery. We prepared ourselves for a glorious evening.

And then we tasted the bread. “Maybe they ran out of Italian bread,” said my friend Paul, ever the optimist, as the rest of us exchanged glances over the tasteless, cold baguette that proved to be the evening’s first unpleasant surprise.

Still, we were hopeful; we were seated inches from a lavish antipasto bar, and we were all anxious to fill our plates with the beautifully colored peppers, ruddy sun-dried tomatoes, glistening octopus salad and large selection of meats and cheeses. Unfortunately nearly everything was drenched in oil--albeit expensive, moss-green, extra virgin oil--and had lost much of its natural flavor.

Other appetizers were a little better. Vongole alla Livornese --clams in a broth with fresh tomato, garlic and white wine--were fat and fresh, but needed more bite. Good prosciutto was wrapped around unripe cantaloupe. Only carpaccio --delicate, thinly sliced raw beef with capers and a mustard cognac sauce--lived up to expectations.

The menu at Antonello has little on it that you haven’t seen before. Still, if creativity is not a strong point, quality is. Clearly Cagnolo spares no expense. Veal chops are thick and tender, the best money can buy. Superbly marbled filet of beef is equally impressive. There are plenty of chicken, fresh fish and white veal specialties to choose from. The restaurant even agreed to split two of these dishes for us when it became apparent we had ordered too much. That is generous.

So were the soups. The minestrone was like a liquid garden, and the straciatella (an Italian version of egg drop soup) was as delicato as it comes. But it was downhill from there.

Pastas are prepared in the kitchen and finished tableside. But Penne all’arabbiata , long tube-like shells in a sauce of fresh tomato, garlic and spicy red pepper flakes, tasted scorched and overcooked. Gnocchi , the usually wonderful potato dumplings, were gummy. Even green lasagna missed the mark--a phantom in the kitchen gave the filling a large dose of nutmeg, making the dish taste like a Greek dessert.

The swordfish came in a nice sauce but was dry and overcooked. Piccata al limone , a good barometer for any Italian kitchen, was slightly better, but relatively nondescript. The otherwise excellent veal chop could have done without an unctuous mustard sauce flamed at table.

By the time we had finished the main courses the baby was sound asleep, and so were our palates. Those who fancy dessert will want to know that there is an excellent tiramisu , a stock selection of Italian pastries, and homemade zabaglione (egg yolk, sugar and Marsala wine whisked up and poured into a dessert glass).

“Better make that a double espresso,” Paul, the baby’s father, informed our waiter. He eyed his daughter sleeping peacefully on the soft banquette. “At least there’s one satisfied customer,” he said.

Movie-set luxury and prime veal do not come cheap. Appetizers begin at $6.50. Pasta dishes are $11.95 to $17.50. Main dishes are $19.75 to $24.95. Reservations are essential, especially if you can’t find a baby sitter.

ANTONELLO

3800 S. Plaza Drive, in the South Coast Plaza Village, Santa Ana

(714) 751-7153

Open for lunch Monday through Friday, dinner Monday through Saturday. Closed Sunday

All major cards accepted