A Venture Up the Boulevard

The busy, cosmopolitan Ventura Boulevard in the San Fernando Valley is an ideal place to take a stroll, do some window shopping . . . or enjoy a good meal. For the next three weeks we will eat our way up several miles and through several cities worth of boulevard restaurants.

Jitlada West (11622 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 506-9355). There is a family resemblance between Jitlada West and the Jitlada on Sunset Boulevard in Hollywood--the same living room-cozy atmosphere, a similar menu and the same friendly service. The chicken-coconut soup is not spicy but is simply one of the most delicious things in the world. The tom yum geong , a clear broth with shrimp, chili, mushrooms and luscious fresh tomato, is delicious and hot--plenty hot. Larb , a ground-beef salad from northeastern Thailand seasoned with mint, lime juice and chili is unbelievably delicious. Spicy mint chicken, an unsauced ground-meat dish, is tasty and moderately spicy. Cool your tongue on a bowl of coconut ice cream, studded with palm seeds (sort of like waterlogged jelly beans). Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sat., dinner only Sun. MasterCard, Visa, American Express. Beer and wine. Street parking. Dinner for two, food only, $15-$20.

St. Moritz (11720 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 980-1122). Nestled against an ivy-covered hill, and furnished in white wrought-iron patio furniture, St. Moritz is a lovely, relaxing, densely green spot. Appetizer-wise, the most delicious are mushroom caps stuffed with crab, tomato and cheese in a butter and lemon sauce. Entrees include a perfect Wiener schnitzel, crisp and buttery and served a la Holstein, with capers, anchovies and a sunny-side-up egg. The pork scaloppine St. Moritz is a surprisingly happy union of breaded pork filets layered with slices of fried, breaded zucchini. If you still have room for dessert, nothing beats the Swiss Pudding Pie, a cold, custardy concoction, with raisins and nuts and a hint of cocoa. If you want to order a cappuccino , order cafe au lait (St. Moritz cappuccino is a mug of something alcoholic garnished with whipped cream and straws). Dinner served daily. MasterCard, Visa and American Express. Full bar. Valet parking. Dinner for two, food only, $55-$65.

Chatters (12650 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 505-6400). This semi-newish glass capsule in Studio City, is one of those casual California bistros where you’ll find fresh herbs, terrific skinny French fries and evidence that there might be an actual chef in the kitchen. The Caesar salad has a strong anchovy flavor with a bold undercurrent of garlic. This is not a timid appetizer. Neither is the hot grilled bread, heavy with the scent of garlic and good olive oil, and topped with sauteed slices and slivers of squashes, tomato, eggplant and earthy grilled mushrooms. The grilled meats are excellent too. A double pork chop, thick and juicy, comes with a heap of sauteed onion and apples nestled alongside. And the chicken breast comes on a mound of delicious garlicky mashed potatoes. If you are in a salad mood, you can’t go wrong with the wonderful smoked trout salad with walnuts and herbed creme fraiche. A scoop of Robin Rose ice cream makes a perfect ending to your meal. Lunch and dinner Tue.-Sun. MasterCard and Visa. Beer and wine. Parking lot. Dinner for two, food only, $20-$35.

Breakin’ Bread Bistro (12747 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 761-6010). This elegant little restaurant tucked back in the corner of Gaslight Alley shopping plaza is an ideal place to celebrate a special occasion or simply dine with friends. Sauteed artichokes are outstanding--very lightly breaded and cooked in white wine subtly flavored with garlic, lemon and herbs. Entrees come with soup or salad, potatoes or pasta, and vegetables. The Chicken Fresco, huge chunks of chicken sauteed with white wine, tomatoes, onions, mushrooms and basil, then tossed with linguine pasta, is a good choice. So is the veal tarragon, sauteed with mushrooms and served in a light, tarragon cream sauce. Veal back ribs are char-broiled first, then slow cooked in a not-too-sweet spiced peach sauce until they practically fall off the bone. Desserts are made on the premises. You can’t do better than the boysenberry-fresh ginger cheesecake. Dinner Mon.-Sat. MasterCard and Visa. Beer and wine. Parking lot. Dinner for two, food only, $25-$50.