Taverna-Style Greek Gigantes
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As many of my close friends in Athens know, I have a borderline obsession with gigantes.
My favorite taverna in Athens makes gigantes that I can only describe as “pillows of perfection,” which I usually eat within my first 48 hours of arriving. The beans are amazingly tender, and the sauce is warming and heavy enough to feel like comfort food but vegetable-centric enough that it feels like a healthy indulgence.
A year or two ago I finally made headway in becoming a regular at the taverna when I befriended one of the servers who, among the male-dominated staff, is young, female and English-speaking. In my broken Greek she helped me coax a verbally dictated, very nontechnical recipe-ish sort of description from the owner. When I returned to California, obviously having packed a giant bag of white beans in my luggage, I immediately got to work testing the tips that I was given through what felt like a sacred passing of bean oral history.
With practice, this recipe is what became of that interaction. Enjoy these with a dollop of whole-milk Greek yogurt and a side of crusty bread.
The cooking time depends on how well your oven regulates heat and freshness of the dried beans. If the beans are older, they will take longer. You’re looking for tender, soft, buttery beans that hold their shape and are not falling apart, plus a thick sauce, and some of the beans on the top layer ending up a bit “burnt” or extra baked from direct heat exposure. After the initial uncovered baking period, check periodically in 10-minute increments to test the beans’ texture as needed.
This is an excellent recipe for meal prep: This can be made ahead and keeps for at least three to four days. It also freezes and reheats very well.
Place the beans in a large bowl, cover them with water plus 2 inches. Soak overnight.
The next day, discard the soaking liquid. Add the beans to a large pot and cover with water plus 2 inches. Add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. Cover with lid and bring to a boil, then reduce to low or medium-low heat and simmer for 1 hour with the lid ajar, periodically skimming any residue from the top. If the water reduces below the beans, top up as needed.
Meanwhile, in a food processor or high-powered blender, add the onion, garlic, carrot, celery, tomatoes plus juices, and tomato paste. Pulse until you see the onion, carrot and celery broken down into small bits about the size of a pea.
Position an oven rack to the middle position and heat the oven to 350 degrees.
In a large rectangular baking dish, preferably 14-by-10 inches or 9-by-13 inches, add the dill, parsley and blended tomato mixture. Set aside.
When the beans are par-cooked (after 1 hour), reserve 1 cup of the bean cooking liquid, then drain the beans in a colander in the sink. Add the beans to the large baking dish, then add the dried herbs, season generously with salt and pepper, and combine. Add 1/3 cup of the olive oil and combine. Finally, add enough of the reserved bean cooking liquid, until beans are fully covered. You may add more water to submerge beans if needed.
Place the baking dish on a sheet pan to prevent spill over. Cover the baking dish tightly with foil and bake for 45 minutes. After 45 minutes carefully remove from the oven, remove the foil, add the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil and stir to combine. Return to oven and bake for 60 to 75 minutes, uncovered, checking periodically. The beans are done when they are tender and buttery, and the sauce has reduced but is not watery or overly dry. Let rest for 10 minutes before serving. Serve topped with more fresh olive oil.
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