Cucina Svelta : Italian meals, prepared with minimum time and effort, still call for the freshest ingredients and time-honored cooking techniques.

There’s a misconception about Italian cooking that Marcella Hazan hears all too often. To prove people are wrong when they claim it’s too complicated and time-consuming, she recently donned an apron in the Times’ Test Kitchen and in less than an hour prepared a four-course meal.

We’ve dubbed her efforts cucina svelta, literally quick cuisine, but don’t confuse this cooking with the American idea of fast food from restaurant chains or frozen dinners. What we’re talking about are uncomplicated Italian recipes that can be prepared quickly, but still use mostly fresh ingredients.

Who better to demonstrate the concept than Hazan, author of three books on Italian cooking and who also teaches classes in her Venice home? While at the Times, she shared some basic techniques of her native cuisine.

It’s such techniques, in fact, rather than precise recipes that students learn in her classes. Hazan cooks by a sense of feel--a pinch of this, a handful of that--so her recipes are meant to serve as guidelines, not necessarily to be used verbatim. We retested them and approximated the amount of ingredients she used, but don’t be afraid to vary, especially seasonings, to your own taste.

Hazan’s philosophy is “never add too much of anything at first--you can always put in more.” Begin with the amounts given in her recipes, or a little less, and go from there. Another of her axioms is “what you leave out is just as important as what you put in.” Don’t detract from the purity of a dish by adding too many ingredients. Simplicity allows flavors to be distinctive.

While preparing the Eggplant, Peppers and Cucumber Spread, Hazan stressed that the eggplant pulp should be chopped by hand, not in a food processor. After draining, she added the olive oil at the same time as the garlic. This is important, because the oil helps distribute the garlic more evenly. If the spread is not going to be used immediately, wait and add the salt just before serving since it will draw moisture from the eggplant.

Those who have been to Italy will probably recognize the technique Hazan uses to prepare her Artichoke Flowers. In Italy, the markets have the vegetables already cleaned and held in acidic water. This method pares off all the woody elements and leaves just the essence of the artichoke (please see step-by-step photographs above). The recipe also utilizes the stem, traditionally discarded by American cooks.

When cooking pasta, be sure to use plenty of water and add the salt after it comes to a boil and just before dropping in the pasta, advises Hazan. After cooking al dente , drain off all but a small amount of the cooking water.

Add this last bit of water to the warm bowl that already contains the olive oil, garlic and chopped chiles along with the pasta. Sprinkle with chopped parsley, then gently lift the pasta to distribute the flavorings and add more olive oil to taste.

The garlic cloves are used for flavor and are not meant to be eaten. “You may want to remove them before serving,” Hazan said. “I’ve had guests that don’t understand and eat them.”

American versions of Italian food are often too garlicky, according to Hazan. “You want the perfume of garlic, to know it’s there, but it shouldn’t be overpowering.”

She also warned that overcooking garlic gives it an acid flavor.

The fresh-berry dessert Hazan prepared was simplicity itself and prepared entirely to taste. Any fresh berries may be used, which points up another of Hazan’s philosophies.

“I chafe at shopping lists. What is the point of insisting you are going to make fegato all veneziana if the liver you find is dark and gristly and makes you think of steer rather than calf? Or why decide you want to do the striped bass with artichokes until you’ve seen the artichokes?

“The market is the place where the idea of a meal best takes place, as our eyes are caught by the good things of the day. No one loves cooking who is immune to the sudden enticement of perfect green beans. When I find firm young zucchini, or bosomy eggplants, taut, glossy and unblemished, or ripe local tomatoes, I start to cook right there, in my mind.”

Hazan’s four recipes can be used to create a light summer dinner, or a second course of meat, poultry or fish may be added for a more substantial meal.

EGGPLANT, PEPPERS AND CUCUMBER SPREAD

Melanzana da Spalmare, Con Peperoni e Cetrioli

1 medium eggplant

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 teaspoon minced garlic

1 tablespoon finely chopped red onion

2 tablespoons finely chopped English cucumber

1 tablespoon finely chopped sweet red pepper

1 tablespoon finely chopped yellow pepper

1 tablespoon minced Italian parsley

Salt, pepper

Lemon juice

Thinly toasted bread rounds, melba toast or crackers

Roast eggplant over flame until very soft, about 15 minutes, turning periodically and being careful not to break skin. Remove to baking sheet and set aside to cool.

When cool enough to touch, remove eggplant stem, skin and discard any black seeds. Place remaining pulp on cutting board and chop. Scoop pulp into strainer and allow to drain about 15 minutes.

Place eggplant in bowl. Add olive oil, then garlic. Stir to distribute. Add red onion, cucumber, red pepper, yellow pepper and parsley, stirring to blend. Season to taste with salt, pepper and lemon juice.

Serve eggplant spread on toasted bread rounds. Makes 1 3/4 cups spread.

Note: Salt should be added to spread just before serving.

ARTICHOKE FLOWERS

Fiori di Fondo di Carciofi

1 sweet red pepper

4 large artichokes with long stems

Lemon juice

Olive oil

2 to 3 cloves garlic, minced

2 to 3 tablespoons chopped Italian parsley

Water

Roast pepper over flame until completely charred, turning as needed. Place in plastic bag and set aside to steam and cool.

Cut off artichoke stems even with bottom of artichoke. Trim stem ends and peel. Begin breaking off outer green leaves from artichokes. Rub exposed surfaces with lemon juice to prevent darkening.

Continue removal until leaves become pale in color and depression appears near artichoke bottom. Using depression as guide, cut off remaining leaves. Scoop out fuzzy choke with serrated tip spoon.

Pare off any remaining tough portions from outside of artichoke.

Heat small amount oil in skillet. Add artichokes and stems. Sprinkle with garlic and parsley and add small amount water. Cover and cook over low heat, turning artichokes and stems occasionally, 30 to 40 minutes or until tender.

Meanwhile, peel pepper. Remove core and seeds. Spread on cutting board and cut 4 small circles (1 1/4-inch biscuit cutter may be used). Set aside.

Cut artichoke stems in half lengthwise. Arrange artichoke bottoms and stems in shape of flower. Place pepper round in open center of each artichoke bottom. Makes 4 servings.

THIN SPAGHETTI WITH GARLIC-FLAVORED OLIVE OIL AND CHILE PEPPER

Spaghettini all’Aglio, Olio e Peperoncino a Crudo

Salt

10 ounces spaghettini

3 to 4 cloves garlic

Olive oil

2 fresh red chiles, seeded and minced

1 to 2 tablespoons minced Italian parsley

Bring large pot of water to boil. Add salt to taste and spaghettini. Cook al dente, according to package directions.

Meanwhile, crush garlic with side of chefs knife or cleaver. Peel and place in large warm bowl. Add 3 tablespoons olive oil, chiles and parsley.

Drain spaghettini, leaving about 1/4 cup cooking water in bottom of pan. Pour cooking water into bowl with olive oil. Add drained spaghettini and toss to coat pasta and distribute chiles and parsley. Add olive oil to taste.Makes 4 servings.

Note: Fresh red chiles are available at Asian markets.

ENSALATA DE BOSCO

1 pint strawberries

1/2 pint raspberries

1/2 pint blueberries

Sugar

Lemon juice

Mint leaves

Hull, wash and cut strawberries in large pieces. Place in bowl with washed and drained raspberries and blueberries. Sprinkle with sugar to taste, toss gently and allow to stand until sugar dissolves.

Add lemon juice and torn bits of mint leaves to taste. Toss again. Makes 4 servings.

Note: Any seasonal berries may be used.