Feliz Dia de Independencia : Pollo Manchamanteles, a festive chicken dish, right, stars in a menu for Mexican Independence Day. On the side are marinated vegetables.

Mexico’s glorious sauces include one with an inglorious side effect. It is manchamanteles, an ornate composition of chiles, fruits, seeds, nuts and aromatics that has sent many a tablecloth to the washtub. In Spanish, manchar means to stain, and mantel means tablecloth, so the name carries a warning.

Although the laundry potential remains constant, the character of manchamanteles may vary. Some cooks make the dish with pork, others with turkey and still others with chicken. There is room for variation also in the selection of fruits and chiles.

Like the better-known chocolate-darkened mole of Puebla, manchamanteles is elaborate enough for a celebration. It takes a special day to inspire the work involved in a dish that requires more than 40 ingredients, as does the version devised at Tamayo in East Los Angeles. We’ve chosen this manchamanteles to head a menu honoring Mexican Independence Day, which is tomorrow.

Tamayo’s manchamanteles is made with chicken. The bird is first roasted with an ancho chile marinade, then cut up, doused with the sauce and presented in a pretty but spicy ring of diced fruit. Unlike mole poblano , the sauce contains a large amount of fruit--plums, papayas, bananas and pineapple--and also fruit juices. The taste is decidedly sweet. And then comes the zing of chiles.

Manchamanteles is served occasionally at Tamayo, not every day. The idea of including it on the menu was inspired by the Fonda El Refugio, a restaurant in Mexico City known for traditional foods.

The remainder of the Independence Day menu is also from Tamayo and incorporates some festive variations on old-time Mexican dishes. Sangria, for example, is topped off with Champagne. And bread pudding comes dressed up with chocolate sauce and squiggles of Mexican crema.

The pudding is based on a Mexican bread called telera, which acquires its distinctive shape from two lengthwise, parallel indentations. These large, soft rolls are available at some Mexican bakeries. We bought them from a bin at Tianguis on Whittier Boulevard in Montebello. Other ingredients that make the dessert unusual are dried apricots, apricot brandy and passion fruit juice.

For an appetizer, there are chips and a salsa that contains a dash of the heady chipotle chile. Dinner starts with a creamy, full-flavored cheese soup that is a cheerful shade of green, the result of blending in watercress, cilantro and fresh poblano chile.

Lots of greenery also goes into the rice, which is moist in texture rather than dry and flaky. And a crisp vegetable relish, Verduras Marinadas, is a startling magenta, as likely to decorate the tablecloth as manchamanteles. Beets supply the strong hue.

Although time-consuming, manchamanteles is a good dish for parties because it can be made in advance. The chicken should be marinated overnight, and the sauce can be put together the day before the dinner and reheated. The special ingredients are stocked in Mexican markets and many supermarkets. The most difficult to find will probably be dried chipotle chiles, which are used in the main dish and the salsa. This chile is expensive, selling for $8 to $10 a pound at booths in the Grand Central Public Market in downtown Los Angeles. If necessary, use canned chipotles , which are more readily available and less expensive.

Mexican Independence Day Dinner

Margaritas

Tomatillo Chipotle Salsa

Tortilla Chips

Crema de Queso

Pollo Manchamanteles

Arroz Verde

Verduras Marinadas

Sangria Tamayo

Budin de Pan

Coffee

SANGRIA TAMAYO

1 (750-milliliter) bottle red wine

1 1/2 cups bottled sweet-and-sour mix

1 cup cherry brandy

1 cup orange juice

1/2 cup Triple Sec

1 (750-milliliter) bottle Champagne

Thin slices orange, lemon and lime

Combine wine, sweet-and-sour mix, brandy, orange juice and Triple Sec. Pour mixture over ice in tall glasses. Add generous splash of Champagne to each serving. Garnish edge of glass with citrus slices. Makes 6 servings.

CREMA DE QUESO (Cheese Soup)

5 tablespoons butter

4 cups watercress leaves, coarsely chopped

4 cups cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped

4 cups spinach leaves, coarsely chopped

1 cup chopped celery

1/2 large poblano chile, seeded and coarsely chopped

1 quart chicken stock

1 1/2 medium potatoes, peeled and cubed

2/3 cup whipping cream

1/4 pound Parmesan cheese, grated

Cubed Jack cheese

Melt butter in heavy 2-quart saucepan. Add watercress, cilantro, spinach, celery and chile and cook until celery is tender. Remove vegetables and set aside.

In same pot, combine chicken stock and potatoes. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer 10 to 15 minutes, or until potatoes are tender. Puree half of mixture in food processor or blender. Add half of vegetables and blend until smooth. Return to saucepan. Repeat with remaining potato-stock mixture and vegetables and return to saucepan. Add cream, bring to boil and add Parmesan cheese. Cook until cheese is melted.

Soup should be consistency of thick egg nog. Serve in large bowls, adding few cubes Jack cheese to each serving. Makes about 6 1/2 cups, or 6 to 8 servings.

POLLO MANCHAMANTELES (Chicken in Fruit Sauce)

2 dried ancho chiles

2 cloves garlic

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 teaspoon salt

2 whole chickens

Manchamanteles Sauce

Pico de Gallo Fruit Salsa

Thin strands citrus zest

Soak chiles in warm water until softened. Remove stems and seeds. Combine in blender with garlic, olive oil and salt and blend to paste. Rub whole chickens with paste inside and out. Marinate in refrigerator overnight.

Bake chickens at 350 degrees 1 hour, or until juice runs clear when skin is pierced. Separate chicken parts. For each serving, arrange chicken portion on plate. Top liberally with Manchamanteles Sauce and surround with Pico de Gallo Fruit Salsa. Garnish chicken with citrus zest. Makes 8 servings.

Manchamanteles Sauce

1 tomatillo

1 tomato

1 dried chipotle chile, seeded

1 dried ancho chile, seeded

1 dried New Mexico chile, seeded

1 jalapeno chile

4 cloves garlic

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

1 tablespoon pepitas (hulled squash seeds)

1 tablespoon hulled sunflower seeds

1 (1-inch) piece cinnamon stick

3 cups chicken stock

1 bay leaf

Dash dried marjoram

Dash dried basil

Dash dried oregano

Dash dried thyme

Dash cumin seeds

Dash anise seeds

1 tablespoon peanuts

1 tablespoon blanched almonds

1 tablespoon olive oil

2 tablespoons diced pineapple

2 tablespoons diced banana

2 tablespoons diced papaya

2 tablespoons diced plums

3 cloves garlic, crushed

1/2 cup orange juice

1/2 cup apple juice

1/2 cup cider vinegar

1/2 cup brown sugar, packed

Remove papery outer husk of tomatillo. Roast tomatillo and tomato under broiler until browned but not blackened. Remove tomato core.

On large griddle or in large skillet, roast together chipotle, ancho, New Mexico and jalapeno chiles, 1 clove garlic, sesame seeds, pepitas, sunflower seeds and cinnamon stick until seeds start to pop. Remove chile stems.

Combine chicken stock, roasted ingredients, bay leaf, marjoram, basil, oregano, thyme, cumin and anise seeds in large saucepan. Cover and simmer 30 minutes. Remove cinnamon stick and bay leaf. Puree mixture in food processor. Return to saucepan and add peanuts and almonds. Simmer, covered, 30 minutes longer. Puree in food processor until very smooth.

Heat olive oil in saucepan. Add pineapple, banana, papaya, plums and 3 cloves garlic, crushed, and saute 3 minutes. Add orange juice, apple juice, vinegar and sugar. Bring to boil and cook until sugar is dissolved. Add to boiling mole mixture and simmer 10 minutes, stirring to keep fruit from settling on bottom.

If sauce becomes too thick, thin to consistency of cream soup with additional chicken stock. Makes about 3 1/2 cups.

Pico de Gallo Fruit Salsa

1/2 mango, diced

1/2 papaya, diced

3/4 cup diced jicama

3 plums, diced

2 tablespoons diced fresh coconut

1 red jalapeno chile, seeded, deveined and minced

1 green jalapeno chile, seeded, deveined and minced

Juice of 1 lime

2 tablespoons cilantro leaves

Combine mango, papaya, jicama, plums, coconut, chiles, lime juice and cilantro and toss to blend.

ARROZ VERDE (Green Rice)

1 bunch spinach (1/2 pound), coarsely chopped

Leaves from 1 bunch cilantro, coarsely chopped

3 green onions, coarsely chopped

1 poblano chile, seeded and coarsely chopped

2 cloves garlic, chopped

Juice of 1 lemon

3 cups chicken stock

1/3 cup olive oil

1/2 white onion, minced

2 cups converted rice

1/2 teaspoon salt

Additional chopped green onions

Combine spinach, cilantro, 3 green onions, chile, garlic, lemon juice and 1 cup cold chicken stock in blender. Blend on high 1 minute, or until completely smooth. Set aside.

Heat olive oil in large heavy saucepan. Add onion and saute until transparent. Add rice and cook 1 minute, stirring. Add blended green mixture. Bring to boil. Add 2 cups boiling chicken stock and salt. Cover and steam over very low heat 30 minutes. Serve garnished with chopped green onions. Makes 6 servings.

TOMATILLO CHIPOTLE SALSA

1 dried or canned chipotle chile

2 cups tomatillos

4 cloves garlic

1 onion, halved and sliced

1/4 cup loosely packed cilantro leaves

Juice of 1/2 lime

Salt

Tortilla chips

If using dried chipotle chile, roast slightly, remove seeds and soak in hot water until tender. Remove papery outer husks of tomatillos. Wash tomatillos and roast under broiler until browned but not blackened.

Roast garlic cloves and onion slices under broiler or on griddle on top of range. Combine tomatillos, garlic, onion and chipotle chile in food processor and grind just until tomatillos are no longer chunky. Add cilantro leaves and lime juice and season to taste with salt. Serve with tortilla chips. Makes about 2 cups.

VERDURAS MARINADAS (Marinated Vegetables)

2 cups water

3/4 cup white wine

3/4 cup cider vinegar

2 sprigs fresh thyme

1 sprig fresh oregano

1 small bay leaf

1 1/2 teaspoons black peppercorns

1 lemon

1/4 onion, chopped

1 clove garlic, chopped

Salt

2 green jalapeno chiles

2 red jalapeno chiles

1/2 medium jicama

1/4 bunch celery

2 small carrots

1/2 bunch baby beets, peeled

Combine water, wine, vinegar, thyme, oregano, bay leaf, peppercorns, zest and juice of lemon, onion and garlic and season to taste with salt. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer 30 minutes. Add jalapenos and simmer 10 to 12 minutes longer. Remove jalapenos, rinse herbs and set aside.

Peel jicama and cut into 2x3/8-inch sticks. Cut celery and carrots into sticks of same size. Combine jicama, celery, carrots and beets in bowl. Bring marinade to boil and pour through strainer over vegetables. Let cool, then add jalapenos and herbs. Cover and marinate in refrigerator overnight. Makes about 4 cups.

BUDIN DE PAN (Bread Pudding)

Orange juice

Passion fruit juice

2 tablespoons apricot brandy

1 (1/2-inch) piece cinnamon stick

1 cup minus 2 tablespoons dried apricots cut into small pieces

3/4 pound butter

4 telera rolls

1 3/4 cups milk

1 3/4 cups whipping cream

1 1/2 tablespoons ground cinnamon

4 whole eggs

7 egg yolks

1/2 cup dark brown sugar, packed

3/4 teaspoon vanilla

Mexican Chocolate Sauce

Crema

Combine 1 cup minus 2 tablespoons orange juice, 1 cup minus 2 tablespoons passion fruit juice, apricot brandy and cinnamon stick. Bring to boil. Add apricots. Reduce heat and simmer, uncovered, 15 minutes. Set aside.

Combine 3/4 cup orange juice and 3/4 cup passion fruit juice in saucepan. Bring to boil and boil until reduced by 1/3. Add butter and heat until butter is melted. Remove from heat.

Cut rolls into cubes and place in large bowl. Toss with melted butter mixture until thoroughly coated. Place in single layer on baking sheet and bake at 325 degrees until golden brown, 30 to 40 minutes. Remove from oven.

Combine milk, cream and ground cinnamon and bring to boil. Boil 5 minutes to reduce slightly. Beat together whole eggs, egg yolks and brown sugar. Gradually whisk in reduced milk mixture and blend thoroughly. Add vanilla.

Toss baked croutons with custard mixture and let stand 15 to 30 minutes. Drain croutons, reserving custard. Make layer of half the croutons in 12x8-inch baking dish. Top with layer of apricots. Cover with remaining croutons. Pour in custard to top of dish. Cover with foil and bake at 350 degrees 30 minutes. Remove foil and bake 10 to 15 minutes longer, or until almost firm. Pudding should remain slightly soft in center. Remove from oven and cool slightly.

Serve warm, topped with Mexican Chocolate Sauce and spoonful of crema. Or pipe crema over sauce in decorative pattern. Makes 10 to 12 servings.

Note: Crema is available in Mexican markets.

Mexican Chocolate Sauce

1/2 cup sugar

1/4 cup water

Dash lemon juice

1/4 pound Mexican chocolate tablets, chopped

3/4 cup whipping cream

Combine sugar, water and lemon juice in saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring, until rich golden color. Remove from heat and blend in chocolate. Over low heat, stir in whipping cream until smooth. Makes 1 1/4 cups.