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Travel by Ship Is a Relaxing Way to See Hawaii

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<i> Slater and Basch are Los Angeles free-lance writers</i>

Many first-time visitors to Hawaii arrive on a package tour, see nothing but the glitz of Waikiki and go back home humming “Is That All There Is?”

Then the next time, to get away from the throngs that wander along Kalakaua Avenue, they book a condo on Maui or a Kona Coast hotel and, as one Oahu tour bus driver claims, “get bored by midweek and head back for the night life of Honolulu.”

But one of the easiest and most appealing ways to see Hawaii is by cruise ship, whether you’re a first-timer looking for a sample taste of the Big Pineapple and the Outer Islands, or a kamaaina (old Hawaii hand) leaning on the rail admiring the lush green volcanic islands from a new point of view. You visit a new island every day or so without hopping around by plane, and you unpack and pack only once.

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Year-Round Cruising

While several cruise lines call occasionally in Hawaii (Royal Viking, Cunard and Royal Cruise Line, for example), just two companies--American Hawaii and the new Aloha Pacific--cruise there all year with the only three oceangoing U.S. flag ships presently in service.

American Hawaii’s Independence was first, starting island cruises in June, 1980, and was joined by her sister ship Constitution in June, 1982. Aloha Pacific’s Monterey, the new kid on the block, began cruises around the islands in early October. You can see all three near the Aloha Tower in downtown Honolulu every Saturday.

The three ships are of a similar vintage, all American-built in the early 1950s, a period Aloha Pacific’s director of hotel operations Morton Mathiesen describes as “when American craftsmanship was at its peak.”

The cabin bathrooms are usually closer to what old salts refer to as “heads” rather than the sybaritic sanctuaries with Jacuzzi tubs and marble counters that some of the lavish new ships show off. And by state law, casinos and slot machines are not permitted, although you will find bingo games.

Both American Hawaii ships were refurbished recently, most strikingly in the Constitution’s elegant jade and mauve Constitution lounge and the dining rooms of both vessels.

Land-Package Deal

Passengers can book seven-day cruises or seven-day vacations that combine a short cruise with a resort stay.

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Prices for the latter range from $699 to $1,429 per person double occupancy, depending on the resort and cabin category selected. As the company recently announced its expansion into the land-package business as well, various extensions can be added to the basic cruise programs.

While the ports of call are similar, the Independence stays at Kahului, Maui, for two days, from Thursday morning to Friday evening, while the Constitution spends that same period in Nawiliwili, Kauai, allowing you to choose which island you would rather spend more time visiting.

Shore excursions offer many moderately priced motor-coach and van, boat and snorkeling expeditions, as well as more costly helicopter tours and other activities.

Because the American Hawaii ships have always attracted a large group of first-time cruisers who are also first-time visitors to Hawaii, many from the Midwest and Southeast, menus always have featured mainstream meat-and-potatoes fare, but recent additions include a nightly fresh island fish specialty and more Polynesian and Oriental dishes.

On both the Independence and Constitution, dress is fairly casual. Couples can get by with an aloha shirt and muumuu most evenings, with men requested to wear a jacket (but not necessarily a tie) for the captain’s dinner.

Constitution’s Nightclub

The best-equipped gym is atop the Independence, which also has a children’s playroom and large youth center. The Constitution’s top-deck Starlight Lounge is a handsome nightclub with a singer or pianist usually performing.

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Prices for the rest of 1988 begin at $995 per person double occupancy, for a small inside cabin with upper and lower berths (going up to $1,025 in 1989), to $1,895 for an outside cabin with two lower beds (and up to $3,595 in 1989 for a suite).

Prices on Aloha Pacific’s glamorously Art Deco Monterey begin at $1,195 for a small inside cabin with sofa bed and upper berth, to $1,695 for an outside cabin with two lower beds and up to $3,395 for a suite.

The Monterey spends a day and an overnight at Nawiliwili, Kauai, and Kona on the Big Island, as well as two days in Lahaina, Maui.

Due to its long history of cruising from California ports in the Pacific for Matson Line, the ship is likely to draw many nostalgic West Coast passengers who either sailed before on this ship or on one of its sister vessels, the Lurline, Mariposa or Matsonia.

Sophisticated Audience

Aloha Pacific set out from the beginning with a sophisticated audience in mind, drawing key staff members from San Francisco’s Portman and Campton Place hotels, and spotlighting restaurant cuisine instead of traditional cruise ship fare.

On Saturday nights, for example, executive chef Stephen Simmons offers such dishes as potato pancakes with caviar and creme fraiche, baked orange roughy with melon salsa and sweet peppers, noisettes of lamb with minted pan juices, and chocolate decadence with raspberry puree.

The Monterey is a little dressier than the other two ships, with one formal night, two casual or aloha dress evenings and the rest informal, meaning a jacket and tie for men. The entertainment on board tends more toward classic Hawaii than “Pearly Shells,” and the ship’s library is filled with new books.

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Shore excursions tend toward the big-ticket items such as helicopter, airplane, zodiac and private car options, with some moderately priced motor-coach tours available.

An optional golf program offers prearranged starting times at Mauna Lani on the Big Island, the Westin Kauai, and Kapalua and Wailea on Maui.

For information or brochures, call Aloha Pacific toll-free at (800) 544-6442 or American Hawaii at (800) 227-3666.

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