Friendly Persuasion

Most of the time when you put your credit card down on the table, the waiter hardly bothers to look at it. I know this because my cards, which bear names which may not be my own but are undeniably female, are generally returned to whatever male happens to be at the table. The waiter at Raffaele, a new restaurant at 9634 Little Santa Monica in Beverly Hills, (213) 276-4466, on the other hand, did more than look at the card. He asked me how to pronounce my name. Which tells you a lot about the restaurant.

Raffaele doesn’t feel like a restaurant in Beverly Hills. It is small and cozy and the waiters are almost unbearably friendly. They will tell you what to order--in my case osso buco (not a good idea), in another case the veal chop (a better idea). The waiter approved of the chicken with mushrooms and marsala (so did I), and the agnolotti, a special of the house. He also approved of both the homey kiwi and raspberry tart and the rather dreadful chocolate mousse cake.

But if his recommendations weren’t always on the mark, you couldn’t fault him for trying. The restaurant itself is pleasant and not too expensive (most entrees run in the mid teens) and there’s a nice little wine list. If you find yourself in Beverly Hills, you may want to remember the restaurant where the waiters remember your name.