Five Extravagant Feasts : Chefs From Southern California’s Finest Inns Offer Menus That Celebrate the Season

GREAT ROOMSand great food naturally go hand in hand. But for the holidays, we asked chefs from some of Southern California’s finest inns to dream up especially fabulous feasts for their fantastic rooms.

People in colder climes might be compelled to pray for snow, but as the following proves, in Southern California, the idea of a white Christmas is obsolete and the holidays can be celebrated in almost any fashion. While the menus developed by Ma Maison Sofitel, the Ritz-Carlton and Omni Mission Inn are somewhat international in inspiration, the dishes from Hotel Bel-Air and Temecula Creek Inn reflect an increasing interest in traditional fare and purely American food.

MA MAISON SOFITEL

ABIG PINK CHATEAUhas just risen on Beverly Boulevard, a splendid contrast to the stark modern lines of the Beverly Center upon which it casts its shadow. Once inside the castle, a visitor is instantly in France.

But this is no French countryside romance; the menu that Patrick Terrail and chefs Robert Vitu and Serge Gouloumes have conjured up is strictly city stuff. Think Paris, think cafe, think La Coupole. In making a fabulous feast for the holidays, they had a very cosmopolitan vision.

The warmth of the wood, the shine of the silver, the sauteed foie gras snuggled into its nest of country mushrooms, and the snapper sitting on a bed of couscous--there’s no need to get on a plane to celebrate this very joyeux Noel.

MA MAISON SOFITEL Basket of Crudites

Whole Ham

Salad With Salmon, Scallops and Black Truffles

Tagliatelle With Sauteed Foie Gras in a Nest of Country Mushrooms

Tempura of Vegetables and Scallops

*Sauteed Red Snapper on a Bed of Couscous

Lobster in Melon Sauce

*Rack of Lamb Arlesienne Style

Broiled Breast of Duckling With Spicy Honey on a Bed of Apples

Millefeuille of Fresh Fruits

Gratinee of Fresh Oranges

Tulip of Figs With Vanilla Ice Cream and Orange Zest

THE RITZ-CARLTON

THIS IS FRANCEwith a decidedly different accent--the south, on the Riviera. Just outside this opulent room, waves crash upon the shore. Above the rich scent of chestnuts, port and chocolate, there is the salty tang of the sea. Judging by the sensuous table set by chef Christian Rassinoux and pastry chef Alain Begin of Laguna Niguel’s Ritz-Carlton, it is surprising that this Riviera is actually American.

Luxury like this is rare these days. The chefs have gone back to a better time, when le beau monde flocked to the seashore and calories truly didn’t count, a time when luxury was serious stuff. Babette’s feast is dressed up in Christmas clothes, complete with foie gras , truffles, whole goose, lobster. At dessert time, luxury is pushed to the limit--not one or two desserts but a half dozen.

THE RITZ-CARLTON Christmas Sausage (Boudin Blanc of Chicken, Veal and Sweetbreads) With Riesling-Shallot Marmalade

Cockle and Mussel Millefeuille With Ginger-Chervil Creamed Mariniere

Foie Gras With Black Truffles

*Lobster With Spicy Cress and Pineapple Sage Vinaigrette

Warm Rabbit Pate in Feuillete With Port Sauce

*Goose Pot au Feu Chartreuse

Whole Roast Goose With Ragout of Chestnuts

Cherry Rhubarb Fritters With Apricot and Raspberry Coulis

Pear Tart and Pumpkin-Cinnamon Flan With Caramel and Vanilla Sauce

Christmas Butter Cookies

Truffles in a Chocolate Cup

Christmas Fruitcake

Hazelnut and Chocolate Buche de Noel

HOTEL BEL-AIR

ALFRESCO EATING INDecember? By all means in Southern California. There is no better place to celebrate the climate than on the Terrace at the Hotel Bel-Air, while swans make lazy circles in the pond below. Chef George Morrone’s American provincial vision combines the most modern ideas with a few favorite flavors from the past. Under the blue sky above, enjoy a prime rib of beef with peppered Yorkshire pudding, horseradish new potatoes and a steamed chocolate pudding that is like a little bite of childhood.

HOTEL BEL-AIR Raw Oysters With Seasonal Steelhead Salmon Roe

Smoked Salmon Chowder With Scallion Cream Croutons

Roast Partridge With Pomegranate Glaze and Grilled and Creamed Leeks

Tangerine Sorbet With a Champagne Splash

Prime Rib of Beef Roasted

on the Bone With Peppered Yorkshire Pudding and

*Horseradish New Potatoes

Warm Chicory Salad With Iowa Blue Cheese and Walnuts

*Steamed Chocolate Pudding With Persimmon Coulis and Ginger Ice Cream

Warm Rhubarb Crisp With Vanilla Bean Ice Cream

OMNI MISSION INN

FRANK MILLER SPENTmost of his lifetime building the Mis sion Inn in Riverside; when he was done, it rivaled Hearst Castle at San Simeon. Now chef Sam Crooke of the newly restored Riverside landmark has made a meal that Miller would have loved. In this fantastic palace, with its candelabra, bells and coats of arms, he’s constructed a fabulous feast filled with exotic dishes, such as the wild rice stuffing in the crown roast of pork.

OMNI MISSION INN Apple-Walnut Pumpkin Soup

Bibb and Endive Salad With Spiced Pecans and Blue Cheese

Saffron Shrimp and Scallops With Biscuits Garland

*Crown Roast of Pork With Wild Rice, Fennel and Sausage Stuffing

Tangerine-Glazed Turkey With Sausage, Apple and Apricot Stuffing and Giblet Gravy

Cauliflower and Broccoli With Buttered Rosemary Crumbs

*Acorn Squash With Cranberries and Port

Pumpkin-Raisin Ice Cream in a Walnut Lace Cup

Apple-Almond Tart

TEMECULA CREEK INN

FORGET ABOUTsleigh bells; this is a truly Southern California holiday season. Peek through the windows of the rough-hewn turn-of-the-century Stone House to the snowcapped San Jacinto Mountains. Outside the air is brisk, the sky is blue, the sun is shining. Inside, the air is redolent of corn bread and coriander and apple cider.

Chef David Armour of the Temecula Creek Inn has taken his cues from the Indian motifs in the hotel. His holiday feast was concocted in the same spirit--the food he’s laid out on the planks of the simple pine table is a homage to the nouvelle American Southwest. The meat is pork, rabbit, veal. The grains are wild rice, blue corn, hominy. Sauces are made from the Chardonnay of local vineyards. And when dessert time rolls around, there’s red yam flan and chocolate cake.

TEMECULA CREEK INN Buckwheat Blinis With Smoked Salmon

Pork and Hominy Soup With Red Chile Sauce

Sauteed Rabbit Fillets With Apple Cider and Mustard Seeds

Roasted Veal Loin Stuffed With Sun-Dried Tomato Mousse, Sage and Chardonnay Sauce

Wild Rice Pancakes

*Marinated Grilled Eggplant With Coriander Seed Vinaigrette

Blackened Leeks

Swiss Chard au Gratin

Blue Corn Bread

*Red Yam Flan

Pumpkin-Chocolate Cheesecake

Chocolate Cake With Roasted Banana Sauce

* Recipes begin on Page 60

SAUTEED RED SNAPPER ON A BED OF COUSCOUS 1 cup couscous1 cup warm waterSaltVirgin olive oil1 large zucchini, diced1 red pepper, peeled and diced1 green pepper, peeled and diced 1/2 cup raisins, plumped in waterPepper2 Tablespoons butter6 shallots, mincedPinch ground cumin1 cup veal stock4 8-ounce fillets of red snapper1 lime, thinly sliced (garnish) Soak couscous in warm water, salt and small amount of olive oil until all water is absorbed, about 15 minutes (or follow directions on the label).

Meanwhile, saute zucchini and peppers in small amount of olive oil until just cooked and crisp. Reserve small amount of vegetables for garnish if desired.

Fluff and separate couscous grains with fork. Toss with sauteed vegetables, plumped raisins and butter. Salt and pepper to taste. Keep warm.

Combine shallots, cumin and stock in saucepan. Cook until reduced slightly and mixture lightly coats back of spoon. Strain. Keep stock warm.

Saute snapper fillets in hot olive oil, turning once. (Basic rule is to cook fish 10 minutes per inch based on thickest part.)

To serve, divide couscous equally among four plates, mounding it in center. Place sauteed snapper on top of couscous. Spoon about 3 tablespoons of sauce over fish. Garnish with lime slices. Serves 4.

RACK OF LAMB ARLESIENNE STYLE 1 bunch fresh thyme1 1-pound rack of lambOlive oilSalt, pepper1 cup water2 carrots, chopped1 onion, chopped2 stalks celery, chopped1 clove garlic2 tablespoons butter5 small zucchini4 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and sliced Have butcher prepare lamb, keeping top of bones for stock. Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Chop fresh thyme and reserve 1 tablespoon. Generously coat rack of lamb with olive oil, thyme, salt and pepper.

Place lamb on rack in roasting pan. Roast about 20 minutes with extra lamb bones. Remove from oven. Set lamb aside. Degrease pan and deglaze with 1 cup water. Set juice aside.

In saucepan, saute carrots, onion, celery and garlic clove in small amount of oil. Add cooking juices from lamb, extra roasted lamb bones, butter and salt and pepper to taste. Simmer until stock is slightly reduced and rich. Strain and keep warm.

Blanch zucchini in salted water until bright green, about 5 minutes. Drain and slice. In separate saute pan, briefly saute tomatoes in small amount of olive oil with 1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme, salt and pepper. Add zucchini; saute an additional minute or two. Serve on side with rack of lamb and sauce. Serves 2.

GOOSE CHARTREUSE 1 4-pound chicken1 large goose, quartered (about 10 pounds)Neck and gizzard from chicken and goose2 small carrots, peeled2 leeks1 onion, stuck with 1 clove1 stalk celery1 tablespoon kosher salt12 black peppercornsBay leafPinch thyme1/4 cup minced onions3 tablespoons butterHalf of red cabbage, chopped in large pieces1/4 cup waterSaltFreshly ground pepper24 large spinach leaves 1/8 teaspoon nutmeg2 egg yolks5 ounces creme fraiche2 tablespoons port wine Place chicken, necks, gizzards, carrots, leeks, onion, celery, salt, peppercorns, bay leaf and pinch of thyme in large stock pot. Cover with water (about 1 gallon). Bring to boil, skimming off foam as it rises. Reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, 2 1/2 hours. Add goose and simmer an additional hour. Remove chicken, goose and vegetables. Set goose aside to cool. When cool enough to handle, slice breast of goose sideways and leg into small pieces, keeping separate. Set aside.

Saute onion in 2 tablespoons butter until translucent. Add cabbage, water and salt and pepper. Cover and, stirring several times, cook 25 minutes. Set aside and keep warm.

Clean spinach well. Cook in saute pan with remaining butter, nutmeg, salt and pepper. Set aside.

Strain consomme and return to large pot. Over medium heat, reduce consomme by half. Add egg yolks, creme fraiche and port, whisking continuously. Bring mixture to slow boil, until sauce thickens enough to coat back of spoon. Correct seasonings.

To serve, place round 3- to 4-inch flan ring on plate. Layer cabbage, leg meat, spinach. Lightly press mixture down, then remove ring. Surround with sliced breast meat and sauce. Chartreuse can be topped with tiny scoop of cooked salsify, cucumber, beets or turnips. Serve with baby carrots, asparagus tips or baby corn. Serves 4.

LOBSTER WITH SPICY PRESS AND PINEAPPLE SAGE VINAIGRETTE 2 1 1/2-pound live Pacific lobsters or lobster tails1/4 cup champagne vinegar1 tablespoon English mustardSaltFreshly ground pepper1/4 cup grape seed oil1/4 cup finely chopped curly cress3 tablespoons finely chopped pineapple sage flowers Plunge live lobsters into large pot of boiling water; cook 5 minutes. Drain, cool and remove meat from shell. Refrigerate shell, claws and meat at least 4 hours.

Blend vinegar and mustard. Salt and pepper to taste. Add oil, chopped curly cress and chopped pineapple sage flowers.

Thinly slice chilled lobster meat. Place 4 or 5 slices of lobster on each plate. Spoon small amount of dressing over lobster. Decorate with parts of shell or claws. Serves 4.

HORSERADISH NEW POTATOES 20 red new potatoes2 to 4 cups chicken stock2 cups heavy cream1 pound fresh horseradish root, peeled and gratedSaltFreshly ground white pepper2 lemons Wash and dry potatoes, then cut into quarters. Cover with chicken stock and bring to boil. Cover, reduce heat and cook until potatoes are soft. Drain.

In separate pan heat cream.

In large mixer, mash potatoes (or mash by hand). Slowly add freshly grated horseradish. Add warm cream until consistency is similar to traditional mashed potatoes.

Season with salt and pepper. Mix in freshly squeezed lemon juice to taste. Serves 8.

STEAMED CHOCOLATE PUDDING WITH PERSIMMON COULIS AND GINGER ICE CREAM 2 tablespoons butter3 large egg yolks1 1/3 cups milk1/3 cup heavy cream1 teaspoon vanilla6 ounces extra bittersweet chocolate, broken into pieces (available in gourmet food stores) 3/4 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature1 1/3 cups sugar2 large whole eggs 1/2 cup cake flour1 teaspoon baking powder 1/2 teaspoon saltPowdered sugar (optional)Cocoa (optional)Persimmon Coulis (see below)Ginger Ice Cream (see below) Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line bottom of 9-inch springform pan with baking parchment. Butter paper and sides of pan. Set aside.

Make a custard by combining egg yolks, 1/3 cup milk, cream and vanilla in top of double boiler. Cook until mixture coats back of spoon. Remove from heat. Immediately stir in chocolate pieces so they will melt. Allow to cool.

Beat unsalted butter and sugar together 10 minutes at medium speed until well incorporated.

Beat whole eggs into butter mixture, then add chocolate custard. Sift flour, baking powder and salt together and then sift into chocolate mixture, alternating with remaining milk. Bake in bain-marie 1 hour to 1 hour and 10 minutes.

Cool 10 minutes. Remove from pan and invert on plate. Remove parchment paper from pudding. Chill until pudding is slightly solid. Invert onto serving plate so that original top can be decorated.

To decorate, cut four 1 1/2x12-inch strips of parchment or waxed paper. Place paper strips across top of pudding spaced about 1 1/2 inches apart. Using tea strainer, dust top with powdered sugar. Carefully lift strips off pudding, being careful not to get any powdered sugar on clean spaces. Rotate pudding 180 degrees. Carefully place strips crisscrossing powdered sugar so some pudding and some powdered sugar is exposed. Dust pudding with cocoa and carefully remove strips. The result is a checkerboard design.

To serve, place pudding slice on plates. Spoon 2 tablespoons of Persimmon Coulis onto plate in small mound next to pudding. Add scoop of Ginger Ice Cream. Serves 8.

Persimmon Coulis

4 very ripe persimmons3 or 4 tablespoons fresh lime juice6 tablespoons powdered sugar2 tablespoons Grand Marnier Halve persimmons and spoon out flesh. Remove seeds. Process in processor or blender with remaining ingredients.

Ginger Ice Cream

2 cups nonfat milk1 1-inch piece young ginger root, peeled and sliced7 large egg yolks1 cup sugar1/4 cup freshly grated ginger, finely minced1 cup heavy cream Bring milk and sliced ginger to boil. Remove from heat and strain ginger from milk.

Beat egg yolks and sugar until sugar dissolves. Whip warm milk into egg mixture.

Add grated ginger. Whisking constantly, cook mixture in double boiler until it thickens. Remove from heat.

Stir in heavy cream. Refrigerate. When completely cool, run mixture through an ice cream machine, following directions of manufacturer.

MARINATED GRILLED EGGPLANT WITH CORIANDER SEED VINAIGRETTE 1/2 pound unsalted butter, melted2 tablespoons chopped cilantro1 tablespoon freshly ground coriander seed2 tablespoons lime juice1 garlic clove, minced1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper4 long Japanese eggplants, sliced vertically Combine all ingredients except eggplant. Grill or broil eggplant about 7 minutes, basting frequently with coriander marinade. Serves 8.

RED YAM FLAN 1 1/4 pounds red yams1 1/2 cups sugar1/4 cup water8 large eggs2 egg yolks1 14-ounce can sweetened condensed milk1 cup half-and-half1 cup cream2 teaspoons vanilla 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon 1/2 teaspoon allspice1 teaspoon nutmeg Preheat oven to 375 degrees. Scrub yams and pierce skins with fork. Place on foil or baking sheet. Bake 1 to 1 1/2 hours, or until soft. Reduce heat to 325 degrees.

Meanwhile, prepare caramel. In heavy saucepan, melt sugar and 1/4 cup water until golden brown. Barely coat bottom of 9-inch flan or souffle dish. Reserve remaining caramel.

When cool enough to handle, peel, cut and puree yams. Set aside.

Beat eggs and yolks until fluffy. Add remaining ingredients plus yam puree and mix well. Pour into prepared pan and set in bain-marie. Bake 1 hour, or until firm. Chill several hours before serving.

Heat remaining caramel, adding only enough water to make a thin caramel sauce. Remove from heat and cool to room temperature. Invert onto large serving plate. Pour caramel sauce on top of flan. Serves 8 to 10.

CROWN ROAST OF PORK WITH WILD RICE, FENNEL AND SAUSAGE STUFFING 2 teaspoons salt1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper1 1/2 teaspoons dried thyme1 1/2 teaspoons dried sage, crumbledWild Rice, Fennel and Sausage Stuffing (see below)16-rib crown roast of pork (about 8 pounds)OilFennel tops or dill sprigs (garnish) In small bowl combine salt, pepper, thyme and sage. Rub mixture all over roast, then refrigerate, covered, overnight.

The next morning, prepare Wild Rice, Fennel and Sausage Stuffing.

Pat roast dry, if necessary, with paper towel, then rub roast with oil. In middle of lightly oiled shallow roasting pan, arrange pork on an oiled round of heavy-duty foil, slightly larger than bottom of pork.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Roast pork 30 minutes. Reduce heat to 325 degrees and roast pork an additional 1 hour. Mound stuffing into center of roast (any remaining stuffing can be baked and served separately). Cover stuffing with another oiled round of foil. Return roast to oven and continue roasting 1 1/2 hour more (medium-well; 30 to 35 minutes per pound total cooking time). Transfer pork to warm platter and let stand 15 minutes. Discard foil from stuffing. Garnish with fennel tops or dill sprigs. Serves 12.

Wild Rice, Fennel and Sausage Stuffing

1 1/2 cups wild rice, rinsed well and drained2 teaspoons fennel seeds3 cups chicken stock1 1/2 cups water1 pound sweet Italian sausage, removed from casings1/4 cup unsalted butter2 cups chopped onion3 small fennel bulbs, chopped (about 1 pound)Salt, pepper In saucepan combine rice, fennel seeds, chicken stock and water. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, 45 to 55 minutes, or until rice is tender. Drain.

In heavy skillet cook sausage over moderate heat, stirring and breaking up lumps, until it is no longer pink. Pour off fat. Transfer sausage to food processor and process until finely ground.

In same skillet melt butter and cook onion over low heat until soft and translucent. Add chopped fennel. Cook mixture, covered, 5 to 7 minutes, until fennel is crisp-tender. In bowl, combine rice, sausage and fennel mixture. Salt and pepper to taste, then toss stuffing well. Makes 12 cups.

ACORN SQUASH WITH CRANBERRIES AND PORT 3/4 cup water1 cup sugar12 ounces cranberries, picked over and rinsed1/4 cup Tawny port1 large acorn squash (about 1 1/2 pounds)Salt, pepper In saucepan combine water and sugar. Bring to boil. Stirring frequently, simmer syrup 10 minutes. Add cranberries and port. Cook mixture 2 minutes, or until cranberries pop, stirring occasionally. With slotted spoon transfer 1 cup cranberries to bowl. Set aside. Cook remaining cranberries an additional 2 minutes. Remove from heat and cool.

Halve squash crosswise and cut each half into quarters, discarding seeds and strings. Cut small slice from skin side of each piece of squash to make it stand level. Arrange squash pieces, skin sides down, on rack set over boiling water. Cover and steam 10 to 12 minutes, or until tender. Season squash pieces with salt and pepper. Arrange squash quarters skin side down on platter. Equally divide reserved cranberries among squash. Serve cooked cranberry sauce separately with turkey. Serves 8.

PRODUCED BY LINDA ZIMMERMAN