The Secret to Terrific Poached Bay Scallops Is All in the Timing

Who would dream that a superb Coquilles St. Jacques could be made by microwave? And that the experience could be turned into a valuable cooking lesson? It’s true.

First, you can learn to poach delicate bay scallops by microwave along with the importance of timing things carefully so they don’t toughen. The surest way is simply to taste a scallop.

Second, you can learn how to make a basic cream sauce by microwave because cream sauce is integral to this French classic. The technique isn’t so different from the one used on top of the stove except that things happen much faster.

The first step is to melt the butter--in the microwave it takes a matter of seconds. Next, the flour is blended in and microwaved just until foamy. Finally, the liquid is whisked in and microwaved just until it bubbles and thickens. On top of the stove you’d have to stand and stir, but in the microwave an occasional, brisk whisking is all that’s needed to keep the sauce from lumping.

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Because the coquille sauce also contains egg, our recipe shows how to incorporate it without curdling: blend a little hot cream sauce into the beaten yolk, stir back into the remaining sauce, then microwave just half a minute on LOW, stirring briskly at half time.

The microwave, sadly, doesn’t brown food well, but there are two effective ways to give the coquilles (and other crumb-topped dishes) a nice brown finish. You can “build in” a little brown color by using some of the bread crust in the crumb topping or you can broil the coquilles quickly just before serving.

COQUILLES ST. JACQUES

1/2 cup dry white wine

2 tablespoons minced shallots or green onions (white part only)

1 small bay leaf

1 sprig parsley

1 pound bay scallops, rinsed well

6 ounces mushrooms, thinly sliced

3 tablespoons butter or margarine

1/4 cup flour

1 1/4 cups half and half

Salt

White pepper

1 egg yolk, lightly beaten

1 cup soft white bread crumbs

1/4 cup melted butter or margarine

1/3 cup finely shredded Gruyere cheese

Combine wine, shallots, bay leaf and parsley in 2-quart casserole. Cover with vented plastic wrap and microwave on HIGH (100% power) 2 minutes.

Add scallops and mushrooms, cover and microwave on HIGH 4 1/2 to 5 1/2 minutes, stirring every 2 minutes, just until scallops turn milky. (Do not overcook or scallops will be rubbery.) Strain, reserving 3/4 cup liquid. Set scallops and mushrooms aside.

Melt butter in same casserole by microwaving, covered with wax paper, on HIGH 45 to 55 seconds. Blend in flour and microwave, uncovered, on HIGH 30 seconds until foamy. Slowly mix in reserved liquid, half and half and salt and pepper to taste and microwave, uncovered, on HIGH 4 1/2 to 5 1/2 minutes beating well every 2 minutes, until sauce boils and thickens.

Mix small amount of hot sauce with egg yolk, stir back into casserole and microwave, uncovered, on LOW (10% power) 30 seconds, stirring well at half time. Mix in reserved scallops and mushrooms and season to taste with salt. Spoon into 6 buttered large natural or ceramic scallop shells.

Combine bread crumbs, melted butter and cheese in bowl. Sprinkle equal amount over each shell. (Recipe may be prepared to this point ahead of time, covered and chilled.)

Microwave coquilles, uncovered, on MEDIUM (50% power) 3 to 5 minutes, rearranging shells at half time, just until bubbly. (Chilled coquilles will take 9 to 11 minutes and should be rearranged every 3 minutes; test centers frequently toward end of cooking.)

If desired, transfer coquilles to baking sheet, set 4 inches from heat under preheated broiler and broil about 1 minute until crumbs are lightly browned--no longer or scallops may toughen. Makes 6 servings.

Note: In ovens of less than 600 watts, increase cooking time about 15%.