Chevaliers Hold Sumptuous Annual White-Tie Banquet

Jack P. Hennessy, the Confrerie des Chevaliers du Tastevin Le Grand Senechal, had just invoked the blessing: “Send down, O Lord, we humbly pray, your blessings on . . . Les Chevaliers !”

With that, dinner chairman John Hotchkis proclaimed, “Let the dinner begin.” After caviar sur blinis chauds and gravlax de Scandinavie with a Dom Ruinart 1981 Champagne, the much-anticipated first course was about to be served, and all eyes of the elegantly white-tied and long-gowned crowd turned to the descending steps of the Venetian-chandeliered Crystal Room of the Beverly Hills Hotel as the trumpets blared “Fanfare d’ Elegance” (the Olympic fanfare).

Waiters lined the steps, each carrying a tray of eight stacked silver-covered plates with the Mousseline de Homard des Cotes du Main (lobster surrounded by sorrel, fennel and tomato-based sauces in triangle swirls.)

One entire tray tumbled off a waiter’s shoulder. Guests burst into laughter. “I didn’t know we had cymbals tonight,” Hotchkis said as he and co-chairman John Maher and their wives, Joan and Helen, exchanged anxious looks. Within an instant, the hotel’s director of food and beverage Maurice Constantin was beside Hotchkis to apologize. Hotchkis ordered his table to be served last in case of a shortage. There were extras, he was assured.

The occasion only added to the humor and joy of a rather unusual international organization of men. Locally they eat and drink divinely (with a special devotion to burgundy wines) once a year in white tie, other times less formally.

In costumed pageantry earlier in the evening Hennessy, the organization’s Grand Chambellan Jacques Chevignard of France and les grands officers Thomas W. Trainer, Hubert F. Laugharn Jr. and John H. Hadley--in their red robes, ribbons and tastevins (wine-tasting cups)--had marched in to fanfare for the elevation of Chevalier Robert P. Strub (Santa Anita Racetrack’s president) to Commandeur .

Les Candidats Joseph Horacek III, Donald Keene, Joseph Ryan, William B. Patton Jr., W. Lawson Martin III and William H. Tilley were also inducted in a stage ceremony. Through the evening Laugharn would raise his wine glass and lead the audience in the Confrerie’s joyous song, “La, La, La.”

Then, it would be on to one more course more glorious than the one before, executed by the hotel’s executive chef Michel Saragueta and defined in the unique menu that Maher designed with white tie, ribbon and tastevin.

The discussion of the night, however, dwelt upon the nuances of the white wines--Chablis-Grand Cru, Clos des Hospices 1983 en magnum , J. Moreau et Fils (served with the lobster) and the Puligny Montrachet Clavoillon 1981 en magnum , Domaine Leflaive (served with mushrooms).

For one reason or another, the Gevery-Chambertin Cambottes 1979 Domaine Dujac was served by mistake with the quail course instead of cheeses and salad, and the Echezeaux 1976 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti with the cheeses and salad, instead of the quail, but some declared that to be preferable.

At any rate, a crowd that knows cuisine and wine carried on--Clifford and Bonnie Miller, Henry and Caroline Singleton, John and Norma Bowles, Warner and Carol Henry, Gordon and Mary Crary, Stuart and Mary Davis, Michael and Debby McCarty, Delos and Betty McDonald, Donn and Peggy Miller, Arthur and Julie Pizzinat, James Swinden and Madeleine Martin and E. L. and Ruth Shannon.

HEARTS AND FLOWERS: Valentine sentiments brought out a rash of splendid parties. Joan and Jack Mackey (Merrill Lynch real estate agent) said “Bring your Valentine” for their pretty party at the home of her parents Billie and Roger Converse in Holmby Hills.

Doreen (president of Rastar Productions) and Jim McElvany (Johnson & Higgins executive vice president) said “Be a Love” for a celebration of dinner and dancing at the Bistro.

Carrie and Stuart (YMCA philanthropist and high rise developer) Ketchum held “A Renaissance of Romance” Upstairs at the Bistro.

A big Valentine’s cake and toasts from their son Jack clued guests into the fact that the Mackeys’ 25th wedding anniversary was a part of the evening. Good friends Joanne and Bob Kendall came from Montecito. Bill and Joan Hadley, Sistie and Bill Stevens and Lloyd and Shirley Aubert were in the Newport Beach group arriving by van. More in the crowd were Maggie Edwards, Joni and Clark Smith, Louise and Steve Griffith and Elizabeth and Thad Up de Graff.

The McElvanys thought it was time for a romantic night when they got a Valentine addressed “To Whom It May Concern.” Dancing the night away were Debbi and Terry Lanni, Steve and Jane Ackerman, Carolyn and Chuck Miller, Maude and Dick Ferry (who flew in from Phoenix), Gordon and Liz Anderson, Roger and Joanne Kozberg (new chairman of the California Arts Council), Fred Warren and Barbro Taper, Steve and Lyn Miller and Don and Joanne Albrecht.

Meanwhile, at the Ketchum party, First Interstate president and Music Center leader Joe Pinola, on advice from wife Dori, stood up to toast the Ketchums, and that started a rash of toasts from Norman Barker and Jerve Jones, much to the delight of a crowd including Buzz and Jan McCoy, Betty Stickell, Joan and John Hotchkis (just back from Carefree, Ariz.), Missy and Malcolm Stuart, Nancy and Bill Dowey, Sally and Joe Keon, Janice and Bob Carpenter, Dick Seaver, Glen and Martha Mitchell.

Of course, all three parties ended with hugs and kisses.

SURPRISES: It’s no secret that Belinda Smith Walker has given her heart to the Los Angeles Women’s Foundation. For her service as founding president of LAWF, dedicated to helping women and girls achieve self-sufficiency and economic independence, friends honored her this week with heartfelt thanks and champagne and hearty desserts.

BLACK-TIE: Internationallyrenowned cellist and human rights champion Mstislav Rostropovich becomes the second person to receive the Ambassador Foundation’s Award for Excellence. The cellist played a concert Sunday evening at Ambassador Auditorium in Pasadena, and later foundation chairman Joseph W. Tkach honored him at a black-tie reception. Sir Neville Marriner is the previous honoree.

KUDOS: To Congressman Edward Roybal, being honored today on his 74th birthday at Bank of America’s “Floor Fifty.” He’ll accept a $200,000 check made out to Cal State L.A. to fulfill the endowment of the university’s Edward R. Roybal Chair in Gerontology and Public Service.

UPCOMING: President and Trustees of the Los Angeles County Museum of Art and The New England plan a black-tie reception to preview “An American Sampler: Folk Art from the Shelburne Museum” next Thursday at LACMA . . .

Tiffany & Co. is inviting future brides and bridegrooms (by reservation only--(213) 273-8880)--for a champagne brunch and preview of bridal gowns by Priscilla of Boston Sunday at 12:30 p.m . . .

Quest (helping children with Prader-Willi Syndrome) raises funds at a “Black-and-White Masqued Ball” Friday evening at the Beverly Hills Hotel . . .

The American Institute of Wine and Food benefits from a cocktail party Friday evening preceding “Celebrations,” a public showing of tabletop designs by designers and chefs at the Los Angeles Pacific Design Center Saturday and Sunday . . .

The Committee of Professional Women for the Los Angeles Philharmonic Assn. hosts a musicale and tea . . .

Clifford Vargas, president of Circus Vargas, will host a party for more than 100 children with serious illnesses and problems Friday before the circus performs at the Hollywood Bowl Fairfield Parking Lot.