Cool, Casual Orso

Please welcome the newest restaurant on Los Angeles’ newest restaurant row. It’s called Orso, and it’s at 8706 W. 3rd St., in the same block as Ma Be and just down the street from Locanda Veneta. The phone number is (213) 274-7144.

Orso occupies the site of the former Joe Allen, but you’d hardly recognize the place. It’s turned into a cool, casual place that does this burgeoning restaurant area proud. There’s a gorgeous pink marble floor in the entrance, mismatched (and extremely uncomfortable) chairs, all the airs of a true Italian trattoria. There is also a very hip menu that changes daily.

Some of the dishes we tried were wonderful: an appetizer of tripe stewed with plum tomatoes and kidney beans; veal with pine nuts, sun-dried tomatoes and olives; a plate of salami, gorgonzola and grilled asparagus. And some were not so wonderful, most notably the pasta which was strangely doughy.

The biscotti with vin santo make a swell dessert--and if you’re in the mood, you can finish off with a glass of grappa. Orso (the word is Italian for “bear,” but the restaurant is actually named after a dog that used to stand outside of Harry’s Bar), is a nice addition to the area--and one which will undoubtedly make all the people who can’t get into Locanda Veneta extremely happy.