Exploring the Wonderland of Rocks at Joshua Tree

One of the many wonders of Joshua Tree National Monument is the Wonderland of Rocks, 12 square miles of massive jumbled granite. This maze of stone hides groves of Joshua trees, trackless washes and several small pools of water.

Perhaps the easiest--and certainly the safest--way to explore the Wonderland is to follow the Barker Dam Loop Trail. The journey begins on a nature trail that interprets the botanical highlights of the area. The last part of the loop trail visits some Indian petroglyphs.

The main destination of this hike is the small lake created by Barker Dam. A century ago, cowboys took advantage of the water catchment of this natural basin and brought their cattle to this corner of the Wonderland of Rocks. C. O. Barker and his men constructed the dam, which later was raised to its present height by Bill Keys and his family in the 1950s. Family members inscribed their names atop the dam’s south wall and renamed it Bighorn Dam; however, Barker is the name that stuck.

The trail to Barker Dam, while interesting, is not likely to occupy more than a few hours for the intrepid day hiker.

One way to explore a little more of the Wonderland of Rocks is to pick up the Wonderland Ranch Wash Trail to the Astrodomes--steep rocks that tower 300 feet above the wash. Departing from the next spur road and parking area past the Barker Dam trailhead, this path leads to the ruins of a pink structure known as Olsen house.

From the back corner of the house, you will pick up a wash and follow an intermittent trail among boulder clusters. The trail is popular with rock climbers, who use it to reach the Astrodomes.

Myriad narrow canyons and washes lead into the Wonderland, but route finding is extremely complex and recommended only for experienced hikers who are skilled with maps and compasses.

Common sense dictates that you exit the Wonderland of Rocks before nightfall; it’s also a Park Service regulation, designed to allow the shy bighorn sheep a chance to reach water without human interference.

Directions to the trailhead: From Interstate 10, a little east of the California 111 turnoff to Palm Springs, take California 62 northeast to the town of Joshua Tree. Continue 4 miles south on Park Boulevard to the park entrance, then 10 more miles to Hidden Valley Campground. A dirt road leads 2 miles from Hidden Valley Campground to Barker Dam parking area.

No, the tiny toll booth in the middle of the highway isn’t a mirage; the Park Service now charges $5 per vehicle day-use fee to enter Joshua Tree National Monument.

For more information about Joshua Tree National Monument and its hiking trails, call (619) 367-7511 or drop by the Oasis Visitors Center, off California 62 on Utah Trail in Twentynine Palms.

The hike: From the north end of the parking area, join the signed trail that immediately penetrates the Wonderland of Rocks. You’ll pass a special kind of oak, the turbinella ( Quercus turbinella ) , which has adjusted to the harsh desert life. The oaks are habitat for a multitude of birds and ground squirrels.

For the first half of a mile, interpretive signs point out the unique botany of this desert land. The path then squeezes through a narrow rock passageway and leads directly to the edge of the lake. Bird watching is excellent here, because many migratory species not normally associated with the desert are attracted to the lake. The first and last hours of the day are particularly tranquil times to visit the lake and to contemplate the ever-changing reflections of the Wonderland of Rocks on the water.

The trail is a bit indistinct near Barker Dam, but resumes again in fine form near a strange-looking circular water trough, a holdover from the area’s cattle-ranching days. A toilet-tank-like float mechanism once controlled the flow of water to the thirsty livestock.

The path turns southerly and soon passes a huge boulder known as Piano Rock. When this land was in private ownership, a piano was hauled atop this rock and played for the amusement of visitors and locals.

Beyond Piano Rock, the trail enters a rock-rimmed valley. A brief leftward detour at a junction brings you to the Movie Petroglyphs, so named because in less-enlightened times, the Indian rock art was enhanced with paint by a film crew to make it more visible to the camera’s eye.

Back on the main trail, you’ll walk parallel to some cliffs, perhaps get a glimpse of some Indian bedrock mortars, and loop back to the parking area.

Barker Dam Loop Trail

1 1/4-mile round trip.