America First at Engine Co. No. 28

You won’t find Dom Perignon on the wine list at Engine Co. No. 28. In fact, you won’t find any French wine--it’s an all-American list. That would have been a great touch had it not been for pricing, which is just a tad too high--about twice retail across the board.

Still, all things considered, this is a list that only a true wine lover could have created. In fact, the list was assembled by Jerry Goldstein: former owner of Acacia Winery, all-around fun guy, and a Los Angeles wine aficionado with an eclectic palate.

That last attribute serves him (and us) well in this wine list because of the wide variety of wine styles we can find.

In Chardonnay, for instance, there’s everything from the overblown 1986 Kalin Cuvee LD (excessively priced at $37.50) to the delightful, engagingly fruity 1987 Mazzocco (at a best-buy $18). Or pick the omnipresent Sonoma-Cutrer Russian River at $20, or the sensational 1986 Cain Cellars Carneros at $28.

In all, 20 Chardonnays offer such a range of styles that the only thing missing (in a best-of-all-possible-worlds addition to this list) would be some clue for the tyro about which style each wine is made in, a la Chez Melange in Redondo Beach.

There’s more excitement: five well-chosen Sauvignon Blancs (best buy: 1987 Robert Pecota, $15); eight sparkling wines (best buy: Domaine Mumm Cuvee Napa, $26.50); 35 Cabernet or Cabernet-type wines (best buy: 1985 Estancia, $14); five top-of-the-line Pinot Noirs including 1987 Saintsbury Garnet at $16.50 . . . and then, the real pleasures.

That is, when you dine on upscale diner food, you want quaffing wine as an option, and here Goldstein offers the likes of Chenin Blanc (2), Gewurztraminer (2), Riesling (2) and Charles Shaw’s 1987 Gamay at $14.50, a grand chillable light red. All of these are lower-priced selections ($12.50 to $14.50), which offer the luncheon diner a chance to create a fine atmosphere and experience without fearing the accountant’s scowl back at the office.

Those who love Zinfandel with meat loaf will have their pick of three, but alas the price of my favorite wine, 1985 Kendall-Jackson DePatie-DuPratt, is $21.50. Ouch!

For Bonny Doon fans, there’s the requisite Le Cigare Volant and Old Telegram ($25 each). And for those who get tired of the humdrum, you may try a hard, but interesting 1986 Merlot from Bridgehampton on Long Island in New York. Or even a sparkling wine from New Mexico, DomaineCheurlin.

Three fine dessert wines by the bottle and a wide selection of Cognacs and brandies, plus a good beer selection (including Sierra Nevada on tap and Genessee Cream Ale) round out a well thought-out selection.

One drawback at the fire station that is common to so many restaurants: Red wine served too warm. However, glassware is attractive, thin-stemmed goblets, and service is gimmicklessly efficient and ebullient--no waiters sliding down brass poles with bottles tucked under their arms, no silly red hats. I always like a little restraint in theme restaurants.