<i> Ole!</i> Taking the Fat Out of Popular Mexican Dishes

Mexican food is arguably the most popular cuisine in Los Angeles, especially at this time of year when so many families celebrate Cinco de Mayo.

But a great number of Angelenos have eliminated the celebrated cuisine from their list of acceptable foods because of its high saturated fat and cholesterol content.

Consider the typical restaurant combination dinner. A standard Mexican meal includes a cheese enchilada, beef taco, refried beans, rice and the obligatory basket of chips and salsa. If guacamole is added, the calories for this meal can easily add up to more than 1,500--more than the amount of a total day’s intake usually assigned to a dieting woman. This approximation doesn’t even include the fruited margarita often served as the accompanying beverage.

But in The Times’ Test Kitchen, we developed some lower-fat and calorie versions of Mexican-style dishes that preserved traditional Mexican flavor. And the tasters all agreed. The Times Food Staff and two natives of Mexico were consulted. Each thought the taste of the dishes was authentic. The cheese, lard and other high-fat items were hardly missed, they said.

Streamlining Calories

By experimenting with the wide assortment of chiles available in Mexican supermarkets and ingredients such as low-fat cheese, egg substitute, evaporated skim milk and skinless poultry, it is possible to adhere to the 30% fat recommendation and still have food that tastes good. Using low-fat preparation methods also streamlines the calories.

Here are some guidelines:

--Offer Spicy Cheese and Pimiento Appetizer or a tomato-based salsa in place of guacamole, which contains about 35 grams of fat and 370 calories per one-cup serving. Serve Spicy Cheese and Pimiento Appetizer with raw vegetables for dipping instead of fried tortilla chips and save another seven grams of fat for every ounce of chips omitted. The appetizer recipe given here takes advantage of part-skim ricotta and Neufchatel cheeses (a lower-fat version of cream cheese), for its taste and texture. Baking tortilla chips is also an option.

--Instead of beef-and-bean burritos, which typically include cheese, sour cream and avocado, try Burrito Cups, which feature baked tortillas, ground turkey and vegetarian refried beans. Reduced fat Cheddar cheese is substituted for regular.

--Salmon Tacos, served on tiny tortillas that are steamed in the microwave instead of fried, feature canned salmon in place of the ground or shredded beef usually called for. It’s topped with a flavorful cucumber-tomato-radish salsa.

--To retain the traditional texture of refried beans, fry the cooked pinto beans in a small amount of vegetable oil and their cooking liquid instead of the lard most recipes require. Top with a small amount of Mexican cheese, such as cotija, instead of Cheddar for more authentic flavor.

--Reduce the amount of oil necessary for frying rice in Mexican-style rice recipes and saute in a non-stick pan over medium-low heat.

--Use evaporated skim milk and egg substitute in Light Leche Flan instead of egg yolks and whole milk. To further spare calories, experiment with the amount of sugar called for in the custard, which we have already reduced by about one-quarter.

--Replace cheese and beef in enchiladas with chicken breast seasoned with chiles, onion and garlic. Top with a creamy white sauce made from nonfat milk, chicken broth and a small amount of reduced-fat cheese and serve with a spicy salsa for Enchiladas Suiza.

SPICY CHEESE AND

PIMIENTO APPETIZER

1 tablespoon olive oil

3/4 cup finely diced onion or shallots

1 pound part-skim ricotta cheese

8 ounces Neufchatel cheese

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1 teaspoon salt, optional

1 (4-ounce) jar sliced pimientos, drained and pureed

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 cup pine nuts or slivered almonds, toasted and chopped

1/4 cup chopped cilantro

1 tablespoon chopped canned jalapeno chiles

Cilantro sprigs

Pine nuts

Raw vegetables or baked corn tortilla chips

Heat oil in skillet and saute onion until tender but not brown. Beat together ricotta and Neufchatel cheeses, garlic powder and salt in medium bowl until just blended. Stir in onions. Divide mixture evenly into 3 small bowls. Into first bowl, stir pureed pimientos and cumin. Into second bowl, stir pine nuts. Into third bowl, stir cilantro and jalapeno chiles.

Smoothly line straight-sided plain mold, 6-inch clay flowerpot, 5 to 6 cup loaf pan, terrine or Charlotte mold with 2 layers moistened cheesecloth or plastic. Using rubber spatula, carefully place cilantro mixture into mold, spreading evenly to sides. Top with pine-nut mixture, then with pimiento mixture. Fold ends of cheesecloth over filling and press down lightly to compact. Chill overnight.

Just before serving, invert mold onto platter and gently remove cheesecloth. Garnish with cilantro sprigs and toasted pine nuts. Serve with raw vegetables or baked corn tortilla chips. Makes 2 pounds.

BURRITO CUPS

4 (7- or 8-inch) flour tortillas

2 tablespoons oil

3 teaspoons chili powder

1 pound ground turkey

1 cup vegetarian refried beans

1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce

2 envelopes instant onion soup mix

1 teaspoon dried oregano leaves, crushed

1/2 teaspoon garlic powder

1 cup shredded reduced-fat Cheddar cheese

Shredded lettuce

Chopped tomatoes

Place tortillas between 2 moistened paper towels or plastic wrap and microwave on HIGH (100%) 45 seconds or until softened. Blend oil and 1 teaspoon chili powder in small bowl. Lightly brush both sides of tortillas with mixture, then place in 4 (10- to 12-ounce) custard cups or bowls, pressing sides to fit. Microwave, uncovered, on HIGH 5 minutes or until tortillas are dry, rearranging cups once. Remove tortillas from custard cups and cool on wire rack.

Place ground turkey in 2-quart casserole and microwave on HIGH 4 minutes or until cooked, stirring once. Stir in beans, tomato sauce, soup mix, oregano, garlic powder and remaining 2 teaspoons chili powder. Microwave on HIGH 5 minutes or until heated through, stirring once. Evenly sprinkle 1/2 cup cheese into tortilla cups. Top with beef mixture, then with remaining cheese. Serve with lettuce and tomatoes. Makes 4 servings.

SALMON TACOS

6 radishes

1 cup loosely packed cilantro leaves

1/2 orange, peeled and diced

1 cup chopped, peeled cucumbers

1 large tomato, chopped

2 tablespoons chopped red onion

3 tablespoons minced, seeded jalapeno chiles

1 tablespoon cider vinegar

3 tablespoons orange juice

2 tablespoons lime juice

1/4 teaspoon salt

2 dozen (4-inch) corn tortillas

4 cups shredded romaine lettuce

1 (15 1/2-ounce) can pink salmon, drained and flaked

Place radishes and cilantro in food processor and process until finely minced. Set aside.

Place orange, cucumbers, tomato, onion and chiles in separate bowl. Add radish mixture, vinegar, orange and lime juices and salt and allow to marinate 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, wrap tortillas in plastic and heat in microwave to soften.

To assemble tacos, layer each tortilla with lettuce, salmon and cucumber salsa. Makes 12 (2 taco) servings.

REDUCED REFRIED BEANS

1 pound pinto beans

2 jalapeno chiles

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1/4 cup oil

1/2 cup diced tomato

1/4 cup chopped onion

1 cup crumbled Cotija cheese

Cook beans in 6 cups boiling water with chiles until tender. Add 1/2 teaspoon salt. Heat oil in skillet. Using slotted spoon, place beans in pan and mash with potato masher, adding cooking liquid to make as moist as desired. Beans should be soft, not dry. Stir in tomato, onion and remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Turn into serving bowl and top with cheese. Makes 8 servings.

CHICKEN IN GREEN SAUCE

1 chicken, cut into 8 pieces

Chicken broth

1/2 pound tomatillos, husks removed

2 stalks celery, chopped

1 bunch cilantro, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

1/2 onion, chopped

2 jalapeno or California chiles, chopped

Salt

Place chicken in large saucepan. Add about 1-inch chicken broth or enough to cook chicken. Bring to boil, then reduce heat and simmer, covered, until chicken is no longer pink, about 15 minutes. Place tomatillos, celery, cilantro, garlic, onion, chiles and 1 cup broth in another saucepan. Bring to boil. Simmer, covered 20 minutes or until tender. Puree sauce in blender or food processor. Return sauce to pan and cook over low heat 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt. Place drained chicken pieces in large skillet. Add sauce, cover and simmer until chicken is tender, 30 to 45 minutes. Makes 6 servings.

RED MEXICAN-STYLE RICE

2 1/2 tomatoes

1/2 onion

3 cloves garlic

2 cups long-grain rice

1/3 cup oil

1 1/3 cups water

Salt

Small bunch cilantro

1 jalapeno chile

Combine tomatoes, onion and garlic in blender and blend until pureed. Strain. Do not wash rice. Saute rice in oil until browned. Add tomato sauce and cook until rice has absorbed sauce and appears dry. Add water and season to taste with salt.

Place cilantro sprigs in bunch on top of rice. Add jalapeno. Bring to boil, then reduce heat to low and cook, covered, 20 to 25 minutes. When rice is done, remove pan from heat and let stand 10 minutes. Discard cilantro. Shake pan to loosen rice. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

LIGHT LECHE FLAN

Sugar

2 1/2 cups egg substitute

1 (12-ounce) can evaporated skim milk

1/2 teaspoon vanilla

Melt 2/3 cup sugar in skillet. When sugar is clear and golden brown, spoon over bottom and sides of deep 8-inch round cake pan.

Combine 3/4 cup sugar, egg substitute, milk and vanilla in medium bowl. Stir until smooth. Turn into prepared pan and set pan in larger pan filled half filled with water. Bake at 350 degrees until knife inserted in center comes out clean, about 45 minutes. Cool on wire rack, then invert onto serving plate. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

ENCHILADAS SUIZA

1/2 cup chopped onion

1 clove garlic, minced

2 cups diced cooked chicken or crab meat

1 (7-ounce) can green chile salsa

1/4 cup chopped canned green chiles

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

1 tablespoon flour

Dash paprika

1/2 cup chicken broth

1/2 cup nonfat milk

Dash white pepper

3/4 cup reduced-fat mozzarella or Jack cheese

6 corn tortillas

Salsa

Saute onion and garlic in non-stick pan until tender. Combine onion mixture, chicken, salsa, chiles and parsley in bowl. Set aside.

Combine flour, paprika and chicken broth in small saucepan until hot. Stir in milk and cook until thickened. Season with pepper and stir in 1/2 cup cheese.

Cover 2 tortillas in moistened paper towels or plastic and soften in microwave on HIGH (100%) 20 seconds. Dip in hot white sauce, then spread 1/3 cup chicken mixture down center. Roll and place seam-side down in 12x8-inch baking dish. Repeat with remaining chicken, sauce and tortillas. Pour any remaining sauce over enchiladas in pan and sprinkle remaining 1/4 cup cheese over top. Cover with foil and bake at 350 degrees 15 minutes. Remove foil and bake 15 minutes longer or until hot. Just before serving, spoon Salsa down center. Makes 6 servings.

Salsa

2/3 cup chopped, seeded tomato

1/2 cup sliced green onions

1/3 cup diced green chiles

2 tablespoons chopped cilantro

Salt

Combine tomato, onions, chiles and cilantro. Season to taste with salt.