Grill Crazy

You could easily have a love affair with any of these grills.

Columbia Bar and Grill, 1448 N. Gower St., Hollywood. (213) 461-8800. Style: Eighties-style Musso wanna-be known more for who’s eating than what’s being eaten. Setting: Open, bright and airy. Recommended dishes: Crab cakes; veal chop; grilled free-range chicken. Cost per person: $15-$35.

DC 3 at the Santa Monica Airport, 2800 Donald Douglas Loop N., Santa Monica. (213) 399-2323. Style: Updated grill food--guaranteed to get you out of a tailspin. Setting: Arty 1990s takeoff of Musso & Frank. Recommended dishes: Rack of lamb; charred tuna with citrus sauce; sea bass in saffron broth. Cost per person: $22-$50.

Engine Co. No. 28, 644 S. Figueroa St., Los Angeles. (213) 624-6996. Style: Landmark fire station now extinguishing hunger pains instead of flames. Setting: Padded booths, 16-foot walls; a pair of ceramic Dalmatians. Recommended dishes: Firehouse oysters; grilled tuna salad; braised short ribs. Cost per person: $15-$25.

The Grill, 9560 Dayton Way, Beverly Hills. (213) 276-0615. Style: Sensible fare served by professionals who won’t tell you their names. Setting: Dark and comfy. Recommended dishes: Shrimp cocktail; New York steak; hamburger; rice pudding. Cost per person: $20-$35.

Musso & Frank Grill, 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood. (213) 467-5123. Style: L.A. antique serving quality food quickly. Setting: Old wood, old wallpaper, Old Spice. Recommended dishes: Chicken pot pie; flannel cakes; martinis. Cost per person: $15-$20.