Grandeur of the Iguacu Falls Defies Comparison

Somehow, contradictory as it might sound, it evoked both a sense of understanding and, four fascinating hours later, bewilderment.

Having already experienced two of the world’s great waterfalls, I had traveled to a South American garden spot to make some comparisons.

Standing on the edge of a gorge near a junction of Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay, I recalled the words and sentiment of a former First Lady: “Poor Niagara,” said Eleanor Roosevelt, after seeing Iguacu Falls for the first time.

From a vantage point on the Brazilian side of the waterworks, it’s clear that Niagara is not in Iguacu’s league. Iguacu is 60 feet deeper, and its panorama of nearly three miles of foaming cascades, would embrace four Niagaras.

In fact, while it is only half as high as Zimbabwe’s Victoria Falls, Iguacu is the earth’s broadest falls, more than twice as wide as Victoria.

Recalling that the awesome Victoria had, compared to Niagara, few specially developed observation posts, I traveled to Iguacu Falls to determine if it was really the “accessible natural wonder.”

‘Great Waters’

Iguacu (Iguazu in Spanish) is the Guarani Indian expression for “great waters.”

These raging waters, along with the splendor of the surrounding forest, were the setting for “The Mission,” a film that received an Academy Award nomination for best picture in 1987.

The falls are fed by the Iguacu River. The waters rush through a lush rain forest before plunging over a precipice in an uneven series of spills. In all, there are 275 cataracts--all of them more than 200 feet deep.

The river sweeps 500,000 gallons of water over the rims each second, creating a cacophony that can be heard five miles away.

The rush also creates fogs and heavy mists, displays that prompted the Guarani Indians to refer to Iguacu as “the place where the clouds are born.”

The falls consist of three major formations--two in Argentina and one, Garganta del Diablo, that spans the border of the two countries.

Massive Cascade

The massive Garganta del Diablo is a huge, horseshoe-shaped cascade with the steepest drop. It is flanked by two falls on the Brazilian side of the river.

At the center of Garganta, waters pour 275 feet into a canyon known as the Devil’s Throat. At the bottom of Devil’s Throat, the water explodes and rebounds in a spray that rises 500 feet and is colored by rainbows.

The two Argentine formations face Brazil and can be seen best from the Brazilian side of the border. One battery, between the other two formations, includes two sets of falls that rumble over two tiers. Each set has 16 separate falls.

The 32 falls rush over the precipice--the first tier--and are dashed onto the second tier, a table of rock that protrudes from the scalloped sides of the cliff. The water then rolls off the second tier for an even longer drop onto the rocky floor of the canyon.

The waters from the two batteries mingle and flow along the canyon bottom, becoming almost a river again as they reach the third formation of cascades. The waters from this third group of falls splash heavily into the river proper.

You are exposed to the roar of the waters when you stand at the Brazilian gateway to Iguacu, an observation trail entrance several hundred yards from the Das Cataratas Hotel.

Sights and Scents

With a camera dangling on my chest, I took the winding red-brick path that sloped into the forest that surrounds the falls.

The sights and scents of forest life--colorful butterflies, small lizards, orchids, bromeliads and patches of wildflowers--lined the path.

At 1 p.m. the sunlight was brilliant but, filtered by heavy foliage, the bright light was transformed into a dark green glow.

Suddenly, there was a flash of bright light as I reached the first major observation point, a convenient cul-de-sac in a clearing overlooking the river and the third formation of falls.

The view of the third formation was clear. However, I could also see small rowboats in the river. (The observation trail is free, but I learned that one could get even closer--and a little wet--by renting a rowboat, along with an expert oarsmen.)

As I continued along the path, a settling mist began to create a cool, tingling sensation. The sound of crashing waters became more distinct. At a bend in the path I saw another burst of bright sunlight, a sign of another clearing.

I soon discovered a doubled-decked observation post jutting slightly over the canyon. One of the posts was parallel with the path, the other about 15 feet below.

View From the Deck

Using stairs, I ventured to the lower observation deck, an iron grid with a thin metal rail. The deck, which protruded about 10 yards from the forest path, aligned with the double-tiered twin falls.

From that observation point I gazed down into the tumult at the canyon’s rocky bottom. A heavy mist rolled in, prompting me to glance skyward. There I found a rainbow arching from the post toward the falls on the Argentine side. I lingered.

The mist turned to light spray as I continued along the path toward the Iguacu River and the largest battery of falls. Fast-moving swallows began to appear in the sky.

As I reached Floriano Falls, cascades flanking Garganta del Diablo, the air was thick with spray. The gusts grew stronger when I sighted Floriano. The path led to an observation deck that extended over the chasm toward Floriano.

Moving to the edge of the deck, I found myself within 15 yards of the rushing waters. It was then that I noticed that the swallows were darting to and from their homes, nests in the wall crevices just behind the falls.

A metal footbridge meandered out into the chasm of churning waters, allowing me to stand several hundred yards from the feet of the falls. Floriano showed her colors--shades of blue and green and foamy white. Again, I lingered.

Exhilarating Boat Ride

Moving from the observation deck, I took an adjacent elevator to an upper trail. From there, it was a short walk to a landing where rowboats are hired out for exhilarating rides along the river.

Some of the boats are rowed near the edge of Garganta del Diablo, taking excursionists dangerously close to the plunge called Devil’s Throat.

I wanted to go over the edge. I did, a short time later--in a helicopter.

Humberto Blazus, a Brazilian helicopter pilot, took me over the edge and back again. From a nearby heliport, the 10-minute rides are available from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. at a cost of $30 U.S.

As Humberto took the chopper higher, he brought massive Iguacu down to size and allowed me to see the entire network of cascades and the surrounding greenery.

When we landed, a sense of bewilderment was settled. Why, I wondered, isn’t Iguacu--like Victoria Falls--listed among the seven natural wonders of the world?

There’s little question that the footbridges, observation decks, rowboats and helicopters provide views that make the majestic Iguacu more exciting to human visitors. But even without those amenities, Iguacu might still be considered one of nature’s true wonders.

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Iguacu Falls is near Puerto Iguazu in Argentina and Foz do Igaucu in Brazil. To reach Puerto Iguazu, take Aerolineas Argentinas from the domestic airport in Buenos Aires. One-way flights cost about $130 U.S. You can also take an international Aerolineas flight from Rio de Janeiro or Sao Paulo to Puerto Iguazu.

To reach Foz do Iguacu, take Varig or Cruzeiro Airlines from Rio or Sao Paulo. One-way flights from Rio cost about $130; from Sao Paulo it’s about $90.

Most of the hotels are 15 to 25 miles from the falls. Accommodations within walking distance of the falls include the Hotel International Iguazu in Argentina and the Hotel das Cataratas in Brazil.

Cost of a double room per night at the Iguazu is $70 U.S. to $90, singles $60-$80. A double at the Cataratas costs between $70 and $100, singles $65-$90. Prices for hotel rooms change often. Have a travel agent check prices before you leave.

The foliage surrounding the falls is more luxuriant during the spring and summer, September through February.

Area sights include a national park near Hotel das Cataratas on the Brazilian side. There are trails, exotic birds, colorful butterflies and a wide range of wildflowers in the park. Itaipu Dam, the world’s largest hydroelectric project, is on the Brazil-Paraguay border.

Inflation rates in both Argentina and Brazil are very high. In addition, the governments of both countries have recently revalued their currency. It’s a good idea to check the latest exchange rate before traveling.

Tip: The cost of film in both countries is also very high. Take an ample supply with you.

For further Information, contact the Brazilian Trade Center, 3810 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 1500, Los Angeles 90010.